[HTi]Johnson

PM sent.

Beautiful. Simply beautiful. I don't think you're going to do much to 1/4 steel plate if you jump your Subaru with it as a lift.

Hello everyone. From now until December 31st Head Trauma, inc. is offering any and all products with a %15 off discount. Just because we're happy that USMB is back up and kicking rump roast. Check out our page at www.headtraumainc.com Here's a picture of some of our bumpers. We also do custom work. Contact me with some ideas/sketches we'll bring from thought to bolted on your Subaru.

Mostly correct. You'll find some 5spd D/R FTAWD that are 3.7, most I think are this way. Some XTs had 5spd AWD with 3.9

Is it the part attached to the body? If it is hollow: can you jam a piece of solid metal in there and put the two pieces back together?

You got it backwards...supposed to go up with the wagons, not down. geez! Just kidding, I don't have any advice for lowering one because all I do is lift it, but I think lowered EA82s look pretty sweet. Just please, no fart can mufflers. (This message was meant to be a Kudos) Maybe this will help.

The front struts are offset 22 degrees, they go in towards the car. Like this \ engine /. Probably will need longer brake lines, it's pretty simple. PM me for more info,

I have a a rule, if it has more than one moving part, it'll probably be crap.

How about this?

I'd guess a motor mount. Yeah, best bet would get to get it welded. If you remove it from the car, carefully, and take it to a shop, they should do if for a half rack of beer. If you don't have another means of getting the pipe there, call a local exhaust shop. Or call the Local Subaru guy and ask to buy the y-pipe as scrap metal. Just don't tell him the catalytic converter is worth some money, like $75-$120 (them's got platinum in 'em).

It's hard to do a turbo through a carb. You can have the turbo blow through the carb, but it's really finnicky. But if you're planning on putting a carb on and getting rid of the turbo, you run into compression issues....or lack thereof. Turbo engines have lower compression than carb's.

I agree. I usually plug weld a washer to top of the bolt and then plug weld a nut to the washer, worked 4 or 5 times for me. The heat from welding helps a lot too.

They might be talking about an additive they had with the first phase of the 2.5 liter block. It had open decks and had a pretty high rate of HG failures. Subaru tried to band-aid the problem with an additive, pretty much a block sealer. They redesigned the HG and solved the problem. They also closed the deck of the new phases of blocks and solved it.

I think I have bigger problems. I replaced the oil and filter...when I drained the oil, it looked like a little bit of water came out first...popped HG or crack somewhere. Damn it. The tick went away for a while, but came back, I'm tempted to drain the oil again, in a clear container and see if water seperates in it.

By the looks of it, I think they spin around through time. Let me know if your ticks goes away. And how much for your rebuilt lifters?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64613 GM alternator upgrade. Pretty easy compared to the improvement.

I pre-lubed them before I put them back together and pumped them up while in oil...weird thing is, they still had full movement. But they work in the car, I'm assuming the intermittent tick is from the Fram filter I put on there to run some cheap oil to, hopefully, clean the system.

Just bent them in a little and forced it back over the ridge. They're nice in tight.

OK, an update. I took eight of them apart, cleaned them, put them back together and just put them in my car. The tick is pretty much gone. Comes around when it's cold, but not even close to how bad it used to be. So, I found that they get stuck due to build up of gunk on the walls of the main body, the ridge of gunk slowly moves down and the "seizes" the spring retainer cup. Anyone can take these things apart but if you want, shoot me a PM, I can do it for ya.

I think it's badass that the Baja is under Brat too. That's a cool find

Front U Joints on the driveshaft?

Agreed. It isn't the best thing to do. 4wd should only be used in situations where tire slippage is expected. Eg: Ice, snow, sand, mud, maybe loose gravel.

So, how do they rebuild them?

So I started to take more apart, I found out that I have two different types of lifters... Then I took apart the "weird" one on the left...looks like this... If you look at the first pic in the first post, you'll see the difference. Here's how the lifter goes together. As I was taking it apart, the small part next to the spring would be stuck, compressed, at the bottom of the casing, it took some repetitive compressing to get it to come back up. Could this be the problem? I was thinking of finding new springs for them, but I have no clue on how to go about this.