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stephen115

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Posts posted by stephen115

  1. 43 minutes ago, el_freddo said:

    If you’re spacing out the backing plate you’ll need to space out the hub to line up the disc. 

    No chance of modifying the backing place to avoid the swing arm? Got pics? 

    Cheers 

    Bennie

    Correct. I did a dry test last night and I'll have to add a little to the hub to make it work. Maybe 5mm. See attached pictures below. Reached my photo limit so had to provide links. 

    I do want to play around with modifying the backing plate. I'll look at that this week. 

  2. I was able to successfully print the backing plate spacer this weekend. It's 20mm thick and spaces the backing plate just enough to clear the BRAT trailing/control arm. I also printed version 2 of the rear hub. Everything mounts up nicely, I just need to install the caliper and check spacing. 

  3. 18 hours ago, el_freddo said:

    How’d you come up with the designs? You must be good with cad! Something I’d like to learn more about with complex components. 

    Cheers 

    Bennie

    I found an old thread on here that shared the dimension of the XT6 hubs. I then modified it from there to suit the Gen1. There are a lot of similarites. The spline count is the same 27T. 

    Thank you! I use Fusion 360 and have been learning on my own for about a year now. Much to learn. 

  4. 14 hours ago, el_freddo said:

    I don’t know mate, I don’t have a gen1 to play with and they’re quite scarce around this part of the world. 

    It would be a cheap way to find out if the 5 stud conversion would fit - you’d need to ensure the rear stub axles fit the gen2’s drum brakes as the fabricated rear hubs adapt the EA81 stub axle to the EJ 5 stud pattern - if this works that’s a major hurdle over come. 

    If not maybe the EA81 rear swing/trailing arm can be swapped in. Big maybe though. 

    Once the rear is sorted the next thing is to ensure the front control arms can be reamed out to accept the larger EJ ball joint. 

    From there it’s working out the master cylinder situation as you’d definitely want to upgrade that to EJ spec! 

    Lastly and probably the most frustrating bit is sorting the front CV shafts. It’s probably best to go custom here for ease of just getting it done. 

    There are ppl who have fitted EJ brakes to the Gen1 brat. I believe over here in Oz a fella had an emerald green one that had the brakes and an EJ fitted, I just can’t remember if it was EJ turbo. I’ll see what I can find. 

    How’d you come up with the designs? You must be good with cad! Something I’d like to learn more about with complex components. 

    Cheers 

    Bennie

    Thanks, Bennie. 

    I've been doing a lot of research over the past few months. It all made sense until I realized the EJ backing plate hit the trailing arm of the gen 1 brat. That doesn't appear to be an issue on the gen 2. So a minor work around. 

    RX and GL's came with rear disc brakes. If I can get my hands on a set of those that would be great. Then all I'll need to do is make the 5 lug hub and find a rotor that will work with the caliper. Shouldn't be too hard to find. 

    Another thought is to make a 25mm spacer for the EJ backing plate. This would provide enough distance to clear the trailing arm. Which brings up another question. Would it space it too far to where the hub won't fit? All things I need to find out. 

     

  5. Hello everyone, 
    I'm on a mission to 5-lug swap my 1981 BRAT. The goal is not to make any modifications to the existing BRAT components. If it has to be made or cut, it has to be removable. 

    I've been following the Subarino videos and website for some time now. Dave said they had yet to do a lot of research on the Gen 1, so I didn't bother buying their kit. I've decided to make my own. 

    I've purchased backing plates, rotors, and brake calipers from a 1994 Subaru Impreza(GC8). This era seems to be the most versatile for this type of swap, and parts are readily available. 

    For reference, I've attached a 3D rendering of the 5-lug hub and backing plate centering ring. Remember, these are not final, and I still have some minor tweaks to make. 

    I went to test fit my backing plate centering ring today. While the ring works, the backing plate hits the BRAT trailing arm/control arm, where the caliper bolts to the backing plate. 

    I'm curious to see what others have done or if anyone has some ideas. I was under the assumption that the Impreza backing plate would work, but I just realized the Gen 2 cars have a different style trailing arm/control arm. 

    I appreciate any input and plan to share my updates and final materials once done!

    XT6 Rear Hub Reman v7.png

     

     

    Rear Trailing Arm #2.jpg

  6. 6 hours ago, Steptoe's photos said:

    Probably a sign of the times - seems everyone happy buying new Gen2 Brumbies /BRATs with tin rocker cover OHV EA81, to not do a Gen3 ute. A little wider, some better engine and transmission options would have made for a great vehicle !

     

    There were change-over differences happening in Gen1 Brumby, so I guess same in BRAT. I think 1981 saw the EA81 engine, whereas the 1980 was EA71 1600 cc ?

    I have some body numbers somewhere for these early beasts.

    I have the ea81 in my 1981. There's no signs that mine has been swapped or anything. The more I learn about the 1981 the more I want to keep it as stock as possible. I've always wanted to EJ turbo swap a BRAT, I've actually been thinking about it for over 10 years. I just don't want to rip apart a car that has a cool place in history. 

  7. 11 hours ago, moosens said:

    Your 1981 Brat is the last year of the First Generation series as we call them. 
     

    1982 starts a new body - new generation of Brat. 
     

    Yours is very collectible and I hope you enjoy it. 
     

    First year of the dual range coupled to the older transmission. Subaru often does engineering exercises like that at the end of one generation. Then that technology will be standard issue in the next generation. You can look at their history and see many examples. 
     

    That said be sure you know your Brat and enjoy its exceptional status. 

    Thank you, Moosens! 

     

    I wasn't aware this model year was that collectible. I had big plans to EJ swap and 5-lug convert, but I'm assuming that isn't a good idea anymore. Maybe a restoration is in order? 

  8. I'm looking at a EJ25 out of a 2005 outback on craigslist. The motor needs new valves above cylinder 3. Since the engine doesn't come with the whole wiring harness for the car what can I do to get the wiring in the BRAT? also before I get too ahead of myself, will a 2005 EJ25 even fit in a BRAT? I'm looking to buy the transmission plate adapter and use the 4-speed in the BRAT until I decide where the car is going to go. Its a EA81 BRAT by the way.

     

    Thank you

    SJ

  9. The torque cams don't really make it sound any different except at idle - it's not a V8 type of lumpy idle like you think though - it sounds more like..... it's just not tuned very well at idle. Sound a bit like it's got a vacuum leak actually. Remember this is a 1.8L engine. You are comparing it to 5.7L and larger V8's that have twice as many cylinders. Subaru's have 4 and a lumpy idle on a Subaru just sounds like it runs crappy. Not enough cylinders to get the lumpiness that you desire.

     

    SPFI pistons will increase the compression ratio to 9.5:1. Decking the block and heads can further increase the compression into the 10:1 or 10.5:1 range.

     

    EA82 intake can be used for somewhat better flow.

     

    Port and polish the heads.

     

    Exhaust should be upgraded after the header to 2".

     

    Those three mods alone - along with a good tuned Weber can get you close to 100 HP which is a decent increase over the stock 73 HP.

     

    Of course - all of this will cost more than doing an EJ22 swap - which is 135 HP without changing anything on the engine. And a frankenmotor (EJ25 with EJ22 heads) is about 180 HP. You'll never come close to the performance-per-dollar that you will find in the EJ's with a modified EA.

     

    GD

     

    Thank you for the info, i guess i'll go with just getting it running and then decide on getting more HP, I really don't need to make it fast, thats what my WRX if for. I really want to make a show car kinda thing out of the BRAT, just a clean nice running car.

     

     

    SJ

  10. i also have a good running ea81 complete with carb sitting on my shelf. Was told it ran good, that person is on this board and nasioc board as well. So, if you want it, let me know, it still has the carb, coil, dizzy, and belts on this.

     

    lets say 450 obo.

     

    i have the brat it came out of, shows 156k on the odo. If you want to talk to the person who said it ran, i am sure that can be arranged.

     

    Is that shipped?

     

    SJ

  11. Lots of folks have done cams in EA81's. It's nothing new. Mostly they go for the torque profile which helps the engine breathe at low RPM and improves torque across the RPM range.

     

    It is very unlikely that your engine is salvageable after a cam breakage event - you would be best served by just picking up a used engine and dropping it it.

     

    GD

     

    Does it change the lope at all? anybody have a sound clip?

     

    Well if it isnt than it isnt and if it is it is only way to find out is open it, which i hope to do by the first of the year. I'm sure something are salvageable. anyways, I'd like to make the new engine run 10X better and be 10X more reliable than it was before because it never ran well to begin with, I blame it on the guys at the shop not doing it right(this is the second engine the car has seen and whoever installed it the second time didnt seem to know enough). I'll find an engine in time. what other mods can you do to an ea81? just so I can figure out what I want to do, I've heard of swapping a ea82 intake?

     

    thanks

    SJ

     

    SJ

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