superpoo93

I second that!! Been there...

For you Bratbro*

Update to come soon.... Been very busy

Sorry, you are correct...no actuator on drivers door..I meant the drivers side door lock switch(inside the door not the master panel).

Clean the drivers side actuator, or replace it.

What about the big engine harness connectors by the coil, maybe they are not pushed in all the way. I had a hell of a time trying to start car after working on it. i started tugging on wires and would hear clicking and if I remember correctly fuel pump would turn on. It would start then die... And not start again. I thought that they were connected but I did not push them in all the way to hear them click. It took some force to get them to do so. Then vroom,, started right and stayed running.. Just a thought

If your cat was at that point of making it overheat, you would experience stalling and major loss of power. Check for pin hole leaks in hoses....

One more thing, are you using an extension with torque wrench?

*edit*What do you mean by jammed?? im sure the gasket would be ok, but did you clean the headbolt threads and tap the block threads before installing? Also did you torque all headbolts in seqence and in three steps? Did bolt creek or feel like it gave...?

You might want to re-key all the locks as well. I have heard, a worn key can be used to open/start any older subaru.

Omg!! Too cool!! That is awesome!! ????

I used Sea Foam in the crankcase and it made no real difference. I did a final leak down test after running the Sea Foam through. #1, #2, and #4 are all between 20-25% loss #3. 40%+

Check the rotor screw, may have backed out. Damn screw...

Im gping to try degunk the rings next.

Uh??? I set the tester on zero before hooking up to cylinder, but as soon as I connected the line both gauges went to zero. So I turned the regulator till pressure built up to 12psi and second gauge was on zero. #2 #3 #4 with compressor on and air pressure applied @ constant 12psi it loses cylinder pressure 20% but heads back towards 0 and beyond when kicks off. Not hearing a lot of hissing fron oil filler ..very slight. #1 same but a lot more hissing I rotated each piston TDC, checked with screw driver. I was paranoid so rechecked each one by rotating with air applied. I listened for the intake opening and closing... continued to rotate through until I could not hear hissing through intake or exhaust. So, Im doing something wrong??

Thank ypu all. Everyone has given me sound advice. I will do the leak down test and gunk cleaner and post results. I will update you late tomorrow. Thank again

Not a happy camper. I reset timing belts again, stilll have same result. Rough idle, and slow to accelerate. Engine will rev up but still slow and shakey off idle. Still have smokey white fumes coming out of oil filler. Ugh :-/. Plugs are good, no vaccum leaks that i can find. I forgot to mention that the engine has 200.000+ miles. If I do find the rings to be bad. Would it be ok to hone and replace rings?? Or go for a complete rebuild?? Frustrated!!!!

Let me first apologize for the book you are about to read....... I have a 93 Subaru Loyale EA82 SPFI that was having lack of power issues and idling really bad... also pinging and heating up under load. A little smoke out of exhaust and no milky oil. I did a compression test and all cylinder pressures were 95-120...except for one cylinder which was at 30psi. It also made no change when removing spark plug. Once I had the head off, I discovered two issues; cracks between the valves had creeped deep into the bowls and the head gasket did not look so hot. I went ahead and put a rebuilt head on the passenger side. So I got the timing set again and bolted everything back on and waited a couple of hours before trying to start it. It starts right up but the idle is a little shakey but not bad. So i turn it off after just a minute. Waited until the next day to let her really warm up, everything looks good. I took her for a spin, and its back to lack of power and she starts to stall at stops. Drove up a not-so-steep hill and it was bad again; pinging and then a poof of smoke out the back. Not sure what color but almost sure it was not white. My car has never smoked ever. So then it started to heat just enough to notice she was struggling. Well now there is white smoke coming from the filler tube. I thought it was coolant, but it it smells like fuel/exhaust more leaning towards fuel..so i decide to test the PSI again. The same cylinder that was 30psi is now 60psi...all others are the same as the last time. I check the EGR valve and found it to be kind of stuck so I changed it out with a better one... No change in engine performance. Whatcha think new rings??? Sorry again for very long story..

If no timing light borrow one or set the timing by feel... Set it where its runs the best, it may take you a couple times to get it right.

Dude no special tools needed. Double check the procedure. This may help you...

Yep, been there done that!! Good tip

Did you set timing with the green plugs connected? You set timing with them plugged in, then unplug once set. If things are not working correctly, always start small... Start at the timing belt, and work your way forward. Double check everything. Dont over think it

You could always make your own bushing remover, using allthread, nuts and washers. Should press it out easy.. For bushing Call Outback Technolgies USA, this guy will now what you want. They are polyurethane as well Amir Webb (914) 302-2431 sales@obtusa.com Ea82 control arm kit SPF1691K. $35+shipping Double check the part number

Try hot water and soapy water first. If it's super thick, use mineral spirits. The mineral spirits should not hurt the orig paint, I would try a small area first and see how it works, before getting crazy with it. Maybe ask a paint store if it be ok to use as well.