hanyou

I havent seen it in person, but she did say that the silver side placards say "Limited Edition" rather than SUBARU. There is a Gen 1 Brat in town that has a similar hood, although the vents are a metal part of the hood rather than something attached to the hood. I would love another Brat, however, I am deployed so it will still be some time before I would be able to. If you wouldnt mind, please send me a pm with pics and price on the ones you have for sale.

Wife came across a Limited Edition Brat in her travels.. Anyone have info on what is different about them? Looks like a Gen 2 DL but other than the hood, whats left of the grille, and chrome stripe down the side, I can't tell anything different from her pictures.. She says the tailgate claims to be a GL but I would guess its not original.

Long story short, I have dry rotted 185/70/13s and have been looking far and wide for a replacement of the same size. ONE Firestone has them for $80 apiece, otherwise Walmart has 175/70/13s for $40 as a somewhat acceptable match. Ebay is running about 60-70 shipped for 1. There appear to be a lot of vehicles that use this size, so where do you lot acquire 185s?

Replaced a nasty vacuum line on my GMC Jimmy with leftover good lines pulled from the Brat during its Dgevification. Troubleshooting the non starting Jimmy led to a bad distro rotor. Works now, and got me to check the Brat distro, which needed some help as well. Both running better than before ^^ Heater/AC wont start after I installed my radio.. tapped into a keyed 12v but it shouldnt have knocked it out. No fan (any setting) or any heat/ac activity from the engine bay either. Time for more sleuthing Bed is being sanded for some bed liner as a rust preventative. Old owner did the undercarraige so no worries there at least. Working on a 2nd Brat or 1st Loyale, have a friend converted to get either but nothing cheap enough yet. His wife hates both, but he has her conviced on a Outback at least, so one way or another theres another Soob on the way ^^

Coming from a bad Hitachi, my mpg went up by 10 (should have been more but it isnt tuned in just right yet). I highly recommend putting one in, especially if you can find one used (I paid around $350ish for the full kit, used in another state's craigslist was $50). That being said, this looks like a good thread for another question... What is the nut size for the brake drum/rotors on the brat? I am thinking 1 1/4" but would like to know for sure before buying another socket. Definitely bigger than the 32mm I had lying around.

I have wondered this very thing... I have an automatic brat and around 65-70 im seeing 4k rpm but have yet to see any other automatics to compare it to. Gas mileage with a Weber is sitting around 18mpg as well and occassionally the rpms fluctuate by up to 200rpm just idling at a stop light so I have been wondering about stuck lifters or something.

Put a new Dual radio/cd player into the Brat to replace a Pioneer cassette player that wasnt hooked up when I bought it. Realized later that the red acc cable wasnt acc as in amp or subs, but has to be tied to ignition or whatnot Bought some Rustoleum bedliner as a preventative measure against rust but its too cold to put it on at the moment.. was happy to see someone had sprayed an undercoat of the same stuff around the wheel wells, no cancer in this one ^^ Had to sand and spray the metal skid plate for the bed though, now is nice and shiny black.

I am having a similar problem with my 83 brat. Vent, AC, Max AC, and defrost work but heater and bilevel do not work. It sounds like mine is trying to do it but there is zero air movement. Moving houses at the moment so it will be awhile before I have any updates.

Thanks for the info, I will definitely seal it up. I cant find the info about the AC but that is low priority at the moment. Does anyone here happen to have a DGEV they would be willing to sell the throttleshaft rod thing off of? I talked to Redline and they wont sell one, but will do a discount on a whole lower assembly.. This seems excessive and unnecessary in addition to expensive. Throw me a pm if you have one please, shes sad sitting in one place so long

Not a permanent hookup, just wanted to make sure it would run decently before getting more parts.. Most of that is hooked up with old hoses that came from the motor cut to suitable lengths, the one T connector is the old F connector with the small end cut off Any suggestions on if these two things are hooked up to anything? I dont have schematics available at the moment. Looking for a new throttleshaft at the moment, used a gatorgrip socket to remove the stuck nut to put the Hitachi plate onto it, twisted the threaded part into breaking without warning. The nub isnt big enough to hold the nut on so the plate falls off. Looking upwards of $40-50 from what I am seeing With any luck that will cure it, if not I will have to figure out a way to mount a return spring as ettev suggested. Running out of things around the house that look like good candidates, may have to break down and actually buy more things As a side note, I found a Subaru Forester in my travels for parts.. Looks like a 2000s model and is abandoned at a house for sale.. owner says make an offer (broken back window, front wheel missing/rotor rusted.. been there awhile, methinks its cheap?)

So... as someone in direct talks with Subaru.. perhaps you can get my dream of a delorean/brat hybrid created?

That set of pictures and a handful of others on the forum are pretty much the only way I got things together, the manual was obscenely unhelpful.. I did notice a few things between them.. The one that you link to shows the old PCV stuff hooked up and many of the ones posted on the board do not... would this cause many issues? I ended up capping most of the stuff and removing the PCV mess from mine as you can see but there are still 3 things uncapped and open to the air.. One is in the 4th pic that looks like a rattle with an L shaped handle, one is the 5/8 hose in the bottom middle of same pic, and one is a smaller hose coming off of what looks like a relay just to the side of the washer fluid (I think it is a sensor part of the vacuum system). I would assume the slamming is the vehicle revving too high to easily switch into a different gear setting?

Solved the lighting issue... one of my jumpers broke and stopped making the connection, even melted some of the plastic cover around it. Throttle cable was apparently also holding the throttle open slightly but did not feel like much play so it is somewhat adjusted now. Doing 65 makes for 4k rpm though and shifting gears makes the car "slam" into gear. The trunnion for the throttle cable snapped so there is a nub the nut goes on. Had to hold it together with some jb weld but I think I will try to use the one from the Hitachi to replace it. Silver hose ended up going to the Y pipes but did not connect to them, just ended facing them. Still have a few connections left to figure out, but it is somewhat driveable at the moment.

Picked up a brand new DGEV for the brat to fix up my old Hitachi getting 10mpg.. I have a few things left that I am unsure what to do with, as well as a new issue. When I turn the ignition the car starts revving to 5-6k rpms (maybe higher, I turn it off at that point). The throttle cable isnt holding the carb open and I am a bit unsure as what may be causing this. Any ideas? In the last picture, does that black hose on the bottom middle get capped, and does the silver hose in the bottom right get capped as well? I also noticed many people replacing the stock fuel intake on the Weber with the old one that has the fuel return, is that necessary as well? Once this gets fixed to where it is driveable again I will need to figure out my lighting issue. Drove it home from work and the dash lights and headlights flickered and went out, no bad fuse. Assuming it is shorting/grounding somewhere along the line.

If you ever feel the desire to part with your Brat please let me know.. I have a blue 'roo down in Altus that is awefully lonely by itself That aside, my back end is up in the air as well... I would assume it has something to do with holding a load better.

Shop just told me the air fuel mix didnt help, carb is still making it run rich and isnt adjusting right. $50 down the drain and $100-150 more to tinker with it, so I was told. New Weber is en route... didnt like those vac hoses anyways but its a shame I couldnt keep that air filter box, gave me warm fuzzies to open the hood and see SUBARU.

Mostly shook a wrench at the ol girl today.. Tried adjusting the idle but couldnt get it to the 800rpm, wanted to stay around 1000-1100. Car gets shaking rather nice with max a/c on, gives a feeling of wanting to die. New spark plugs but she is burning pretty rich, blackened them within a week. 140 miles out of a tank since I got her, looking into how to mess with the fuel/air mix if I can do it on my own. Contemplating putting in power steering, cruise, and/or a weber carb when I get around to it.

Came across the manual in the mound of stuff he had in the car.. mystery pan is indeed the tranny oil. Spent the morning replacing that, filled the front differential.. then all around town trying to find a converter for my 3/8 to 1/2 to get those back plugs off. Bought a converter pack with a 1/2 in it.. turned out to be a 1/2 to 1/2 universal >.< Next store wanted $20 for a 1/2 ratchet, only thing thatd work.. so I opted for the "gator tool" that "fits any size" for a cheaper $10. It of course didnt fit around the plug to fill in the hole. Smelling very much like rotting eggs from the front differential, with tranny fluid on my shirt, I ventured to the pawn shop for a 1/2. For the low price of $75, I could finally check/change the rear diffy. Defeated, I returned home for a drink and some reflection on Murphy's Law. As a side note, I saw a GL wagon in someone's front yard, have to admit it brought a smile to my face

Most recent thing I have done to my 'roo is buy it As of Monday I am the proud owner of my first Brat. 1983 automatic with a mere 135k on it done up in a nice cosmic blue. It has been sitting for the last 4 years in a garage so I had to fill up the tires, change motor oil/filter, and am trying to figure out where to fill the power steering fluid. Front differential was bone dry and rear hasnt been opened yet. My dad owned 5 of these in manual back in the 90s and it took until now to find myself one that wasnt rusted out Fairly new to working on vehicles.. on the undercarraige I found a motor oil drain, front differential, mystery pan, and rear differential. Anyone mind enlightening me on what the mystery pan is? (right behind front differential)