bratman2
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Posts posted by bratman2
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Naru must cringe at almost every Weber conversion. Being they come with a K&N knock off. On a stock EA81 you will see virtually nothing performance wise being we only have 73 hp. At 54 years old I have run them on many vehicles with no issue what so ever. Installed my Weber at 155k and now have close to 240k with it's cheap K&N clone. So the difference in filtration which is less with a freshly cleaned K&N is not significant factor in my opinion. They are cotton gauze, not foam.
On the other hand, at $65.00 you can buy how many factory filters good for 15k or more miles each? I would not buy a stock K&N at that price for a car that old. Unless you throw away paper filters prematurely it is very unlikely you will come out money ahead.
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You can replace the relay side of the ignition for much less. If that is what you are talking about. Turning the key and getting nothing or maybe a faint click in the column. Trace yours back and make sure it has the pink plug. I believe this is the replacement you need. Most places list the wrong switch relay for a Brat and it will not fit.
Here is another a little cheaper,
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Not too my knowledge. They do make them for an EA82 GL/Loyale which are pretty close. I saw a post a while back were a member used them to replace his. Have a pair myself with plans to replace mine in January.
http://www.rustrepair.com/PANELS/SUBARU-LOYALE-85-BODY-PANELS.HTM
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Your temperature controller is bad. Fan should only come on when the temperature raises to the point of tripping it on. Sounds like someone may have hacked your wiring harness to bypass it maybe??? They are not all that expensive. I would get the proper sender and make sure it is hooked up properly. Not only for heat but an engine needs to reach a minimum temperature to run best and I doubt you are reaching it.
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I vote slide pins. Happened to my daughter's 93 Legacy.
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On the 03 Impreza RS seats the installation was very simple. The front inside tab bolts in, the rear inside arm on the seat I had to shorten with a sawzall. Drill a hole for the bolt were the seat belt bolts in on the transmission tunnel. The outside only required cutting a small piece of flat steel ( I think maybe 2" long, 1/4" thick, 1" wide), bolting to the seat and drilling a new bolt hole in the flat steel to mate with the factory bolt location. If you have access to a drill and a sawzall it is an easy 3 hr. job to remove old seats and install new.
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was just talking to sachs dealer this week in Oz, shrugged shoulders at me - no listing for rears for Brumby/BRAT
I found KYB Gas-A-Just 4183A for my Brat. Past summer I went through the suspension, mounts and bushings. I used the Sachs for the front. The KYB are discontinued and some charge a very hefty price for them. I Googled the crap out of it until I found a seller with a pair for mid $30's US each. The white Gas-A-Just or very good shocks and high pressure gas. Try searching and you might find a decent price on a pair down under.
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That wasn't a rant, more like a review. We test drove a Patriot, Legacy and Forester back in 2003. To our butt (wife and me) the Legacy was hands down winner in the butt department, lol! The Patriot and base Forester were much closer with the Forester edging the Patriot out mainly on ride, the Patriot seemed a little harsher to us. I guess when you talk nearly thirty year old cars about anything from late 90's and up should be a massive improvement. My Brat seats got so bad when I went across rail road tracks it felt like my butt contacted metal sometimes. Plus I was vacuuming little bits of foam up from under the seats on a regular basis. An old drink crate might have been better, you remember the old wooden ones for glass bottles!!!
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I installed 03 Impreza RS seats in my Brat back around 04-05. Yes, I had to do very minor fabbing but they are awesome seats. Two holes lined up and two had to have a 1" tab installed. Mine were new take outs from a rally car down in Fla. Exactly like WRX seats without the air bags.
Don't mean anything by it Josh but to even think that a Jeep seat comes close is beyond me. I have sat in a Liberty though it was an early model, maybe 03 Patriot. They are no where near as comfortable to me as mine or my wife's seats in her 2011 Forester XT.
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Several years ago a place in Jacksonville, North Carolina, listed a full set of 180/80-13 recapped snow tires. Anyways that is what they called them. They looked like mudgrips to me. I thought that to be a interesting find at the time but passed on them being they were recapped. On the other hand being my Brat hasn't seem an interstate in 8 years, only local puttering around, it would have in all likely hood been a viable option. I guess a person could search around and see if anyone still recaps a mud/snow style 180/80-13 anymore. If you minimize super high speed driving. I did see a 185/75-14 recap on Ebay that looked like it had the exact same tread style recently. Which I also found to be quite interesting. For now I will stick to my 185/75-14 Uniroyal on steel pugs. I did find a plastic plug that fits the center hole in the rim perfect. That has made me feel much better having the pugs installed on my Brat.
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If your car has the adjustable struts that is flat out the easiest way. They generally allow for 1-1.2" of height adjustment depending on model and if they are aftermarket or not. Soak like suggested. Try jacking the front up to get some of the weight off of them and even removing the front tires for better access. You will most likely need to adjust your toe-in out some like I had suggested on a post before. This will most likely correct you tire rubbing, it did on my 87 Brat when I had 195-75 tires installed.
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Bendecker, I have a coverlay ABS dash cover. Still holding up after quite a few years I am glad to say. Have never seen another for sale since.
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What rims and tires did you use? Looks like you may have a fair amount of tire rubbing!
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I would try cranking it up maybe just half way first and see if that gives the clearance you need. The more you crank it up the more wear you will get on the outside edge of your front tires. Also more strain on your inside DOJ axle boots. On my 87 Brat I also ever so lightly rolled the front edge on the fender lip in and trimmed the inside edge of the mud flap which helped a lot when I had 195/75 all terrain tires mounted. Being you paid for a front end alignment I guess you don't know how to adjust your toe out on the front end. I increased mine about a turn on each side after raising mine the full inch. Tires still wore a little quicker than they should have and inside axle boots didn't last as long either. But after 10k miles I was able to drop my front end all most all the way down with no scraping.
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If you do go new check Edmunds.com. You build it with what package you are looking for, add zip and they give the average bought price for your location. I always negotiate lower than that.
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Your ticking/clicking sound from the rear end may be universal joints. My Brat did that when they started going bad.
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About the same for me as Grossgary. I have dealt with my local tire store over thirty years. First their father and now his son. They charge me no mounting or balancing fee. Plus the tires I purchase usually only end up being around $5-10 more each than Tirerack's web price before the shipping. They inspect our vehicles and even will change the oil for $10 if I bring the oil and filter. Plus they are a fuel distributor that allow me to fill my Brat up with non-ethanol regular at their fuel terminal!!! Even if I could save $10-20 a tire I would still buy from them.
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I don't think so! I will look tomorrow, may have a lens in the barn.
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I installed 03 Impreza RS seats. Just minor fitting required.
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I believe this is the one I bought. Not going to say this is your problem but it was mine. Worked fine most of the time then nothing others. Usually at the worse times too!
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Ignition switch was my problem a couple of years ago. Got progressively worse. Total of maybe twenty times. Finally one day I heard an ever so faint click inside the steering column. The switch is two pieces. The contact side with the wiring harness is what I replaced and it has never happened again. I forgot were I got it from but make sure it has the proper pink (I believe) connecter. Most places sell the wrong ignition part for an EA81.
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Looks almost too pretty to drive it around! May get dirty!
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The ones I installed in the rear of my Brat had the plastic cage also. Pretty sure they made that cage compatible with every common available grease. I want to say I used synthetic grease on mine. Seems it was red and Mobil I believe.
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Why don't you try this first before declaring the fuel pump dead. Though cleaning and blowing out the lines would possible be a good idea. Disconnect the fuel line on the discharge of the pump. Get someone to just bump the key and make sure you have fuel coming out. You could attach a small run of hose and hold it in a container. These are low pressure fuel pumps unlike FI pumps. If you have fuel do the same thing under the hood off the second filter. Attach a piece of hose and have some one bump the pump over. If so you may have blockage in your carb. If not you may have blockage in the fuel pick up inside the tank or fuel lines somewhere.
eletric help with a brat 1985
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by bratman2
They are for the tilt steering wheel! I replaced mine about 3 years ago. I have most likely missed named it a relay. It is the electrical side of the switch.