bratman2

Sorry to hear that. If you have good grounds, good battery cables and a good ignition switch I would think you are covered. I remember now having another similar problem 10 years or so ago. I ended up installing new battery cables, needed it I am sure but made little difference, a reman starter with same results. Finally I traced the hot wire from the ignition, were the pink connector plugs in, and replaced it from the connector all the way to the starter. That fixed it until the ignition switch went on the blink. I was prepared to replace everything I could one wire at a time, lol! On cars this old most everything you do probably needed to be done anyways. Just gets aggravating some times. I think the ignition switch is the last thing I have had trouble with and that has been nearly three years ago, knock on wood!!! Good luck.

Good luck and hope that solves your problem. Never hurts to touch up your old starter and grounds anyways. I did the same thing when mine started that click crap.

This should be the one if you need it!! Has to have the pink connector on it if you have a GL with tilt wheel. You can trace back the wiring harness to the connector to check yourself to make sure this is the right switch. Only if you are hearing the click at the steering column. http://www.partstrain.com/store/details/Subaru/GL/OES_Genuine/Ignition_Switch/1984/Base/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/W0133-1630804.html

Listen carefully to the click when you have no start. If it is coming from the steering column you will probably have to replace the electrical side of your ignition switch. I went through the same problem several years ago on my Brat. Lights, radio and battery power but occasionally no start. The contacts were worn out in the ignition switch. The switch is two piece, mechanical side (key) and electrical with a wiring harness and connector. It was hell finding the right one, most places carried one but for an EA82. I think I paid around $45.00 new.

Get a Viair 70P 12v compressor and pump it up yourself at home before you drive off. They are quiet and fast.

I installed Gabriel struts on my Brat 15-16 years ago and they seemed very good replacing the old factory struts. The driver's side factory strut had developed a mild leak and had around a 140k miles on them. I just replaced the Gabriel struts a couple of months or so ago with the Sachs. It was a very noticeable difference. The Gabriel struts had no leak and about 95k miles on them. They also passed the bounce test but took way less pressure to compress than the new Sachs. The Gabriel struts are good for the money they cost, which are pretty cheap. They are probably a decent 60k-75k strut. I don't know how long the Sachs will last but they were right much more money. I imagine this set my last as long as the Brat has left.

I got Sachs from Rockauto. I think kyb discontinued the struts for us. Most likely you could still find a set on Ebay. I know nothing about the air bags or air lift that you showed.

If it is too slick it will make grinding, scratching gears worse. Many years ago I changed mine over to Mobil 1 gear oil. It made it worse. Back then several people on this board were talking about how good MT90 worked. Mine was bad about wanting to scratch second sometimes and hard to get into first unless completely stopped. The Redline MT90 completely cured that and that has been well over a dozen years ago. So I have been using it well over a dozen years in my Brat.

With only 73hp stock I would say a hood scoop would be useless.

I have had great success with Redline MT90. Makes the old transmission in my Brat shift very good compared to how it use to.

When ordering parts for my 87 Brat I always cross reference the parts for an 84. That helps eliminate getting EA82 parts.

Your picture doesn't look too bad but the parts that usually rust the worse are underneath as you now know. The wheel bearings are a pair in front and go in to a stop from both sides. Getting good axles can be a pain as most reman axles are junk. Don't expect 35 mpg, if you get it running good 29-30 will be more likely, still beats 8! Truthfully the oil pan is nothing to remove if you have to. I have installed two new gaskets on mine in 17 years, with motor in place. No help on the ignition, I replaced the electrical side of mine a few years ago, the tumbler on mine still works even though the key will fall in the floor at times, lol! Good luck!

I would check the clutch cable adjustment first. If that is good and you still get grinding try Redline MT90 transmission oil.

Since mine are 2-3 years old maybe I have the good ones, or have been so far. I have had this Brat 17 years now, I would guess I installed or rebooted 20 axles. Some came bad right out of the box and returned immediately. Got pretty cotton pickin fast at it too! Does get old after all those years. Which I did change motor/transmission mounts at the same time I installed the Empi axles.

Weber 32/36. A board member here makes a bolt on kit with adapter for manifold that will fit perfect. Plus jetted correct for an EA81. You can do a search and find him or check the for sale section.

Empi doesn't make axles for Subaru's anymore? Or have they gone to another manufacture that makes them cheaper?

I bought new Empi axles 2-3 years ago. They have held up longer than any remanufactured axles I have ever purchased.

The replacement KYB is not height adjustable! For the rear there should be a rubber plug to acess the rear adjustment of the torsion bar, if am not mistaken.

I installed 2" from "Y" pipe back with a Magnaflow stainless steel muffler. I like it a lot, it sounds nice but not obnoxious.

Sadly most forum searches suck. May try Goggling it and you will find USMB post that you can click on. Also try searching through the off road forum.

If it is the DOJ boot try clamping it closer to the joint. On an EA81 I know you can and would think that would be possible with an EA82 axle also. The best boots will be factory Subaru boots. Also may want to check motor and transmission mounts and see if they are bad. They will cause premature boot life also. I would try eliminating this first before I decided to blame the lift itself. I have a Brat so that is all the help I can offer!!

Also gives your axle boots a fit.

I have had this problem to occur on a Ford Ranger truck and my Subaru Brat. Both times it was water in the fuel causing gas line/pump/or filter freezing. That would of course be my first guess.

I can say I follow what you are saying exactly. Pretty happy with my lightly modified EA81. Now if it was to take a dump I would look an EJ to replace it. Biggest problem I have is they are not that common in Eastern North Carolina. On a side note I joined this board in the late 90's, board crashed and reset some folks back to zero. I had to rejoin this wonderful forum. I have never heard of a frame crack from a EJ. At the same time I don't see the need to replace something that is not broken. The EA81 is a simple design that can last many decades with basic care. So I hold on to mine. Plus I get close to 30 mpg with a 4 wheel drive. That is something to brag about!!

With Miles on this also. I have seen a bad PCV do the same thing. They are only a few dollars, worth a try I would say. Did you see the actual compression check numbers?