bratman2

Fast idle on my Brat is more like 2-2.2k. I know you stated it was set for best lean condition but sounds like to me it needs more adjusting. I fiddled and fined tuned mine over a couple of weeks.

On the back side there is a shoe adjuster. Kind of like a star with the point stuck out. You may need to back off of this some and make sure the drum spins freely before trying to remove.

I have steel Peugeot 14" wheels. I have run 195/75-14 all terrain which scrapped when new if I hit a sharp bump with the wheel turned. Trimming the inside the front mud flap did help and cranking the front adjuster bolts up an inch. But that does reduce axle life. After 12k miles or so I had no more scraps and was able to drop the front back down a 1/2". Running new 185/75-14 tires now with no issues and adjuster bolts on the front all the way down. A 185/70-14 or 195/70-14 should have no problems fitting at all. The specs on the 195/75-14 were 25.6" tall. The 185/75-14 are 24.9" tall. Just for reference.

Looks pretty good!!

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/107722-pictorial-wheel-bearing-guide-4wd-rear/ A little time consuming. Myself, I usually do them in pairs.

Posted Today, 02:01 AM "I pick up a bearing sound like noise coming from the tranny, as soon as my clutch is engaged its gone" I thought he meant when the clutch pedal was out the noise went away. But after reading it again I am not sure anymore. .

Sounds like a bad "throw out bearing". The procedure to get to it is the same as a clutch replacement. The bearing itself is not very expensive but there is a decent amount of labor involved. If you have to go that far you may want to check the clutch and rear motor seal also. Mean much to us, many people in the US would love to have that transmission with a high and low!

"To do that requires using a grade with more octance, but the result is less retardation due to knock." That isn't quite true. Octane is octane regardless of ethanol or not. Many variables can effect fuel such as age (ethanol fuel more susceptible), contamination, percent below or above grad, and additives. One of my neighbors years ago was a state fuel inspector. When fuel is checked randomly for grade it can be a certain percent below or above and still pass. My 87 nonethanol comes from a fuel distributor that also is a large commercial, agriculture and mining equipment tire company. I have been a customer of theirs for almost 34 years. Between these two I have learned a lot about fuel. Also the ethanol Federal subsidies have been dropped sometime ago unless it has been reinstated. Slightly off topic I also own a Moto Guzzi which has a nonmetal fuel tank and requires premium. Alcohol in fuels in the US have caused issues with these and several other brands from Europe. Mainly fuel tank swelling and blistering of the paint job. Nothing like pulling your tank to service a bike and cannot get it back in for the love of Christ! I will pass on the alcohol on all my vehicles if given the choice.

Many people get similar results as you have noticed, they just usually are not that high. I have run 87 pure gas in my Brat and 06 Ford Ranger for the past 3 years are more. Best I can remember is about 3% increase in mileage which equates to the stated 3% energy increase. We have a 93 premium no ethanol source in a neighboring city. Filled my wife's XT there and convinced her to fill there next time. She claimed that to be the highest local mpg she has seen in her XT. It has the mpg display. But for convenience's sake she will not stop by there at all, it is about 3 miles out of her way to and from work and it does cost about .50 more a gallon. Sure enough alcohol has a high octane rating but 93 is 93 and 87 is 87 regardless. The fuel without alcohol is better in my opinion and I don't mind paying extra for it as it seems you pretty much feel the same way. My Brat was having all sorts of trouble several years ago in a cold snap that I believe was caused by ethanol. The 87 runs me maybe .15-.20 more a gallon. Cheap in my opinion! You can try searching Pure-gas.org. They list nonethanol stations by state and city. List 272 stations for Va. bet there is more not listed. Forgot the little hyphen!

I am going to assume you are talking about trading a Charger in on a new truck or Subaru. What I would do if you have the room and cash is buy the new Subaru Forester. The new CVT Forester can get you in the low 30's mpg highway. Take the difference of what a four wheel drive F150 cost and buy a used longbed Ranger. Preferably with a 4 cyl and 5 speed. Best of both worlds and good gas mileage with both. The late model 01 and up Rangers had a major change on their 4cyl engines. I paid $6200 for a 06 Ranger 3 years ago with 49k miles. It was beat up some but the interior was excellent. Most people want the supercabs and autos, this makes these trucks a great buy. I would imagine an 01-03 could be had for well under half that. If you don't mind shifting gears the Forester can also be had with a manual!!! Should knock another grand to your favor!

You did check to make sure you had oil in the rear end! If that is okay it my be your universal joints. On my 87 even though they were turning all the time it was fairly quiet until I would lock it in 4 wheel drive. Looks like you had a blast!!

No it will not offset octane. The nonethanol will have about 3k more btu's of energy per gal. for your Legacy. If the 3.0 calls for premium that is what you will need to buy. Sorry!

I have heard they flex a lot under normal driving also. I wouldn't do it myself.

Before you throw parts at it verify spark. Pull a plug and ground it to the block and turn it over. If you have spark try a oz of gas straight into the carb and see if then it starts. Just two things to check.

I have been thinking about the same thing! You must have bought the same aftermarket carpet kit I did. Has faded super fast and never fit quite right. I would have paid double for a proper fitting and dyed carpet kit! Forgot to even mention the rub pad by the gas pedal stuck my pedal to the floor a month ago. About 20 degrees outside and I pat the gas pedal twice and start the Brat. Tach screams to 6k in 2 seconds! Why it didn't sling a rod through the block I will never know. Took me two whole seconds to cut the ignition off. Another 5 minutes to figure out the problem was in the floor not under the hood. You may want to check yours too! Mine had came unstiched across the bottom and just caught the pedal.

My 87 has a little door switch. Worked the first week I owned it 17 years ago. If memory serves me it was the dimmest dome light I have ever seen. You have not lost much by not having it!.

Mine is exactly under yours. With the original radio still in place. I might could have gotten by with a 1/4" spacer, not sure. But the Blaupunkt CD51 I installed which had a fairly short overall length would not fit without any spacer at all. So when it died many years ago I searched high and low for another. This allowed me to slide it right in the same mount with plug and play.

Thinking the same thing. Crowd is a little harsh! Just needs a little touching up here and there. Dumping the trash would have helped a lot! I have seen two sell for 12k plus, they were nice though.

Yes, most decks will have to have a spacer.

In the reliability department you may very well be better off keeping the Forester. The stage 2 kit doesn't imply puttering around easy! Just my opinion!

My 87 Brat has no computer and has never had one! Would love some cruise though!

I would gladly pay asking price if the wench above came with it!!

That is a beautiful wagon you have there! I have been running a Weber for 14-15 years on my Brat. Grinding noise could be wheel bearings or axle. Should have dip stick to check transmission/front differential oil. Make sure that is full. There is really no reason to install a rebuilt carb when a new Weber is only a little over $300.00. Like Ferox stated your carb problem could be very simple.

I don't think the coil knows what distributor you have really. As long as the ohms resistance matches.

The Hitachi is stock on the 4whl drives. The nippo denso I believe came on 2whl drives. The nippo supposedly has a faster vacuum advance that gives a slight bit more lower end power. I think you would really be splitting hairs. I would just get which ever is most reasonably priced if you are buying the whole distributor.