bratman2
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Posts posted by bratman2
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They are not talking about an external leak but an internal leak in the sending unit. I just replaced the sender on my 87 Brat for the same problems you are describing. About $22 from Advance Auto and less than 5 minutes of my time. My would take about 15 miles to get down to 0, now it runs at 50# warm.
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The twin belt pulley is heavier on the EA81 than some people may think. I pulled mine and had a mechanic at work help me cut the front pulley off, we then drilled about 8 or so 1/4" holes with a drill press. Total weight reduction was app. 1 1/4 lb. Performance wise can't really say but it seemed to make a small difference (been a few years ago that I have done this).
Ram engines that makes EA81 aircraft engines sells a lightened underdrive EA81 pulley, don't remember the weight or price but a search will turn that up for you. Probably not worth what they would want for one unless you have extra cash to burn.
Glenn
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The Shadow was probably easier than the pig. Had a couple of inches to spare. Of course with the way it is stretched out it felt like more than the 600lbs. that it was.
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Thanks, I should be good to go then.
Glenn
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Going to pick up a new scooter this evening and only have the Brat to get it in. Has anyone fit this size bike (2001 Honda 1100 Spirit) in the bed? Not really worried about the weight as it is just under 600 lbs. but some of these cruiser class bikes are long. I know the tailgate will have to stay down but hate to drive over 50 miles to get the bike only to find out one wheel won't go all the way on.
Thanks, Glenn
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If you can have them welded in I would buy Magnaflow replacement cats. They make dozens of universal models for nearly every application out there. You would be looking at less than a 100 apiece. Try Performance Peddler.
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It has been a long while but I went through something very similar. There are exhaust recirculating valves on the bottom of your heads that if they start sticking will cause an EA81 to run like crap and "backfire". No power and kinda falls on it's face if floored. I bypassed mine when I installed the weber but like you replaced all kinds of crap before I found out what it was. Somebody with a better memory can pobably call them by name. Seems like I later remember reading a post about plugging them with a quarter.
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On my 87 Brat all four boots were dry rotted. I checked on remanufactored axles for the rear and they were twice the cost of fronts. I pulled them, simplier than front axles and rebooted them, switched them left to right. I don't know if it's the same for a 88 Gl but all I had to do was jack it up, knock the pins out and the axles just would clear. A set of snap ring pliers and surgical gloves makes it a whole lot easier. I would reboot it, I have had alot of trouble with reman. axles on the front, two bad right out of the box and had to be taken back.
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The best thing to do is be aware of what people are doing, a T bone accident in the side of a Brat at 45 or so would be terrible. No side impact reinforcement. There is so many variables involved with car accidents that it is really hard to look at a few old ea81 or ea82s in the junk yard and claim them as being safe. I have known of people being seriously injured with what I consider to be minor damage to their car and others walk away from some that you couldn't even tell what it was they were driving. Air bags are a big inprovement in surviving a terrible accident but first generation air bags caused alot of injuries in low speed 20-25mph crashes, broken noses and busted lips being the most common.
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Had the Weber on my Brat for 3.5 years now and it really does simplify life, you can actually see all of the motor now. Just took my 195/75/14 allterrains off two tanks ago and installed a pair of 195/70/13s that I had in the barn to check mpg with the odometer reading right for a change, 29.5 mpg average between two tanks of gas. The Weber really adds good bottom end power to my Brat, I would say go for it.
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Dyno's have proven that converting from mechanical to electric fan does increase hp. But with a little well worn clutch fan don't expect a big gain, maybe 2-3hp at best. On a full size pickup with a 20-inch clutch fan gains or much higher and noticeable , 10hp & 19 ft. lb. torque on average. If 2 or 3 hp is okay with you slap a 14-inch Hayden or similar fan on and a controller. Do not mount it with a through the core style straps as they can wear through the core. The Hayden fan on my Brat matched three bolt holes with minor modification, I used 1 ty strap but it does not support the fan. A good free flowing muffler will probably gain you about the same hp. A webber might get you 5 hp.
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I would suggest a new Legacy wagon myself, we have a 2003 LSE sedan bought new for under 20k and have really enjoyed it. With no trade and some serious haggling you should still be able to get a 2005 around 20k with the 5 speed. The Legacy is lighter and has the same room as the Outback, the ride is better than a Forrester. We test drove both, the Legacy was better equiped for people comfort for the same price, monnroof, alloy wheels, fog lights, you get the picture.
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A single 14-inch S blade fan will fit almost perfect. I would use a Permacool or Hayden controller. You should be able to pick all you need up at any big parts house.
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If your axle nut is torqued down tight enough it can wear the front tires out very quick also. Just check it like you would check your wheel bearings, any play torque it a little tighter. I believe 145 ft. lbs. is needed.
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Filled my wife's 2003 5 speed SE up monday and was shocked to see that it had broken the 30mpg mark. We have about 33.5k on it already and she has a 35 mile country commute to work. When I told her about how high the mileage was she laughed and said it has been doing that for several months now. So go figure, I would think you need to start looking for a problem. I would try rebooting the computer first.
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When I bought my daughter a 93 Legacy w/114k I switched it to Mobile1 10w30 at 115k. Drained at 5k with the same concerns that you had about possible cleaning out old crud. With the second change I installed a new filter at 125k and changed at 130k. Ran 10k changes on this Legacy until we sold it with 177k miles for the measily sum of $650 due to her tagging a black bear on the driver's side. My coworker who bought the car and wasn't concerned too much over the apppearance of the drivers side fender and both doors has 184k on it as of saturday. He continues on with the Mobile1. Can't help but wonder why a bear has to bounce all down the side of a vehicle. My daughter stated "I know you probably don't believe me but it really happened", of course the thick black hair in the door trim confirmed her story. Bear made it past the Legacy but unfornatily not the next car behind her.
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Spark plugs are easy in the newer Subarus. I just changed the factory (champions?) out of my wife's Legacy, I used Autolite and 3500 miles later it still runs fine, no need to go to the dealer to get raped for a set of plugs. I prefer NGKs in my vehicles and no plus anythings. I only used the Autolites because the local parts house didn't have any NGKs for the 2003 Legacy in stock.
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Most alternators produce maxium output at just a few hundred rpms over idle. For example I have a 25% underdrive pulley on my pickup truck that has been converted to twin electric cooling fans. The underdrive pulley is rated to reach maxium alternator output at app. 950 rpm, the 42% underdrive reaches it at 1150 rpm. Stock idle is 650 rpm which at that rpm output is reduced, I offset this by porting, polishing and half shafting the throttle body which raised idle to 750rpms. Hope this clears up some of your questions.
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Need 205-55-16h, she has a 2003 Legacy special edition. Definatily want a tire that handles good because the Legacy seems to hold curves pretty well. We only get 1-2 moderate snows a year on average.
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My wife's Legacy is at 33.5k and I noticed her factory Bridgestones are on the thin side. Would love to hear back how you like the Avids because $61 is one heck of a deal for a H rated tire, post back your impressions after a week or two. For warrenties it seems that they always wanted to prorate at some ridicules factory retail price that was double what the tire cost, so I consider them useless. Cooper has came out with a new silicone compound W rated tire that I have been considering but at a hair over $90 apiece I don't know. Anybody on this board use Coopers H, V or W tires?
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I know oil has changed alot in the past twenty years but not many years ago Mobile1 15w50 would out flow any 10w30 conventional oil. Cookie, if it works why change it, even though Rotella and Delo are great oils. When I first switched my little Brat to Mobile1, back when it had 142k, I used 15w50, saw several 20 degree mornings with no start up issues at all (the only reason for the 15w50 was unfounded fear of leaks) now 0 degrees probably would be different. I would stick to what works myself. Currently on 10w30 at 194k with no leaks or problems, also run 5w30 in the wife's 2003 Legacy, all Mobile1 and the great thing is no piston slap in her car. Her Legacy does a 35 mile country commute through one small town each way to work and has broken the 30mpg mark this past year regularly (she has the 5 spd). Strange that some have piston slap and others don't. For semisynthetic there is no regulations that I know of, they can drop in 5% hydrocracked dino oil in the US and call it semisynthetic. If anyone wants to go this route I would definatily make my own and 3 to 1 is a good ratio that will beat any off the shelf blend imho.
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It is in their big catalog, not on their sorry web site. If you use the internet you would be lucky to find anything in JC Whitney. Check your PM otay.
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I hope my wife's 2003 Legacy doesn't become another sign. Only time will tell and it shouldn't take too long as she puts over 20k a year on it.
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SevenSisters, the last two Legacys we have bought were built in Indiana, both the 93 and 2003. The India Chevrolet Forrester that the article refers to states that it is built in the land of the rising sun, Jap, and rebadged as a Chevrolet.
anti-freeze mixtures
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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The 50/50 on the bottle is a catch all that is universally acceptable in all but extreme conditions. An automotive cooling system will generally transfer more heat with more water so boiling point becomes a mute point. EA81 engines used in aircraft were air flow across the radiator may be restricted do run as low as 20% antifreeze to control heat but they change it yearly and this is only in warmer climates. Some automotive manufacters allow lower ratios and still validate your warrenty. For example Ford allows as little as 30% antifreeze according to the owners manual of the 2000 F150 I use to own. My Honda Shadow 1100 recommends no lower than 40%.
I would have to check the book on my wifes Legacy to know if that is true with them but I have been running 40% in my Brat for years and changing it to 33% on the next change. Which is what I ran in the F150 after the first change. Don't read to much into the 50/50 mix as that is not always what is best, just universally accepted.