bratman2

When you have a mechanical fan on a vehicle with a electric fan the electric fan is hooked up to turn on with the AC in every application I have ever seen. Is yours wired in to a temp sensor in the radiator? Should be on engine side of your radiator, they are mounted on the passenger side of a 87 Brat, don't know if that is relevant in your sisuation. I would think you would need another electric fan and a thermostat controlled switch to turn both fans on. I switched the dual electric fans in my Brat with 1 14-inch Hayden wired into the original thermoswitch, as far as reliability the switch in my 87 is original with 187k miles.

Try a search for Autowhiz. It will show list of parts that will fit then cross check them against the other years you are interested in.

Sounds like a inner tie rod would probably cure that. Discount Auto Parts has them for $20 or so. I would not think the whole rack assembly would need replacing with that kind of mileage. A second opinion of a trusted mechanic would be in order if it were mine.

Our 2003 Legacy 5 speed got alittle over 29mpg from Ashville to Aurora on our trip back from Colorado. Had 1800 miles on it when we got home. Get around 27mpg commuting from Aurora to Washington, 35 miles each way. Living in Hickory with snow and mountains maybe taking atoll on your mileage?

Your blessed. I know how you feel, in eastern NC Subarus are pretty rare also and thats with my family owning 3, probably half the Subs in the whole county. The pug rims are a blessing if you can find a set, took me three years to find the 505 turbo steel rims I have. A 195-70-14 should fit easily with no other modification, the 195-75-14 Cooper allterrains I have would just touch the front edge of the fenders if you turned and hit a bump at the same time and that is with a 1-inch body lift. A slight fender edge roll on the lip cured that. Good luck on your projects.

I would opt for the graphite, that is what we use in our safety locks at the place I work at. I don't remember the name but it came in a spray can with the little straw attachment. WD40 will draw dust and dirt making the lock eventually worse, an automotive silicone that NAPA sells that does not get hard works pretty goods as I have used that on my 87 Brats driver lock.

My daughter's 93 Legacy had the same issue on the drivers side. We had just had freezing rain and the nut under the the end cap had come loose causing it to sorta strip out due to being stuck to the windshield. This is what I have done to temporary repair this, pop the hood open, look at the base of the wiper arm, pop out little nut plug. I think it takes a 10 or 12mm wrench, try tightening up the nut, wet windshield good and give it a try. The inside mounting point of wiper arm is knurled to mount to the stud, the arm may be stripped (my daughter's is) but will probably still work. hope this helps you

Accel 5040K is a universal 8mm set that you cut and crimp to fit. Comes with the crimping die that you clamp in a vise and works real good. Then you can cut to your own length. I used the 5 shortest, the next 4 are over double the lenght of the shortest a Subaru 4 cyl. needs for future use.

I used a polishing compound that came in a yellow bottle with a buffing pad for a drill on my daughter's 93 Legacy. Made alot of difference in the brightness of her headlights. Do not use a rubbing compound as it would scratch the lense, the polishing compound is white and has no grit to it. Glenn Taylor.

Miles, A 84 GL should be an ea-81 without timing belts. I think he probably has engine issues that show up when the oil warms up, worn bearings possibly. Thicker oil may help but will not fix the problem. Glenn Taylor

I have known of a Mustang, Dodge truck and a Nissan truck doing similar things in my life time that were all the computor starting to check out. Seems once they cooled off they would fire back up and run. Of course they eventually died completely. Have no idea if Subs are the same, but just thought I would throw that in. Glenn Taylor.

The oil filter is fastened to your oil pump on the lower front of your engine. It is driven by the crankshaft so it can be removed by itself. I would replace the pump as you have a ball and spring style bypass that might have failed causing it to recirculate most of your oil flow to back to the oil pan. When the bypass failed on mine the oil pressure dropped by half but I had no knocks and drove it a week waiting on the new pump. What is your oil pressure? Of course it could also be lower engine bearings going out also. Glenn Taylor.

Well you will have to copy and paste as it doesn't seem to link right. I haven't updated the website in a while and the email is wrong but the picture is still under the RS seats in a Brat page.

Not really as much room as you would think. Two bolt holes line right up, the other two I just cut some 1/8 in flat metal tabs and drilled and bolted, app. 1-inch over. You can see them at http://www.webspawner.com/users/bratman2. Some racing seats can be pretty wide at the base. I would love to see a pair of xt seats as everyone raves about them but Subarus are not that common around here. We probably own a third in the whole county. I just can't see them comparing to new model RS or WRX seats.

I had always heard that you are not suppose to use a impact on alloy wheels. Last time I took my truck in to get the wheels rotated the older gentleman that worked at the Cooper tire place I go to stopped the man working on my truck and handed him a ratchet. I had just opened the service door to stop him from using an impact on my alloy wheels.

I have a pair of Impeza RS seats in my Brat that are extremely comfortable and hold you in place. I would prefer them to the racing seats. That's how I lucked up and got them off Ebay because the man who bought the car was rallying it and pulled the seats out new. Just a few dollars over 300 with shipping. I have one 99 RS seat that is in good shape if you were interested, drivers side.

I bought my webber 3 1/2 years ago new and since my last retuning three weeks ago I have not had a stalling issue since with temps. into the upper 20 degree mark. I will say that this like the 4th time I have readjusted it.

Meep is right that slowing down the shifts will help but my old 87 brat had got to the point that it would still lightily grind going from third to fourth no matter how careful I was. Redline did cure it completely within a couple of hundred miles. I don't believe any slippery stuff additive will help, this was the problem w/ mobile1 gear oil, too slippery to allow the gears to engage smoothily. Glenn Taylor.

SubaruJunkie, I think that little air valve recirculating crap at the top of your Y pipe will do the same thing you have described. I had the same syptoms a few years back and that was the problem. Good luck, Glenn Taylor.

My 87 Brat had similar problems a couple of years ago. I first tried adjusting out with the clutch cable to no avail. Second I tried Pennzoil gear oil change, no help. Third was Mobile 1 gear oil which made it way worse. Hated dumping that out after less than a month. Redline synthetic gear oil fixed mine. Do a search for Redline's website and email them to find out which gear oil is best for the newer Legacy as it may not be the same for a Brat. You should easily be able to do this yourself for way less than the lowest price you have obtained. i believe this will help, Glenn Taylor.

I had the same problem with my Brat starting the end of last winter. Started running fine when the weather turned warm so I didn't worry about it till now. I fixed mine by adjusting the idle and mixture adjustments back to spec. Try zero your settings out and set your mixture screw to two turns out. Set the idle screw like 1.25 turns out and you should sound something like a tractor idling. Adjust your idle with the mixture screw by turning it out more until it idles smooth, I believe this was around 1.5 to 1.75 more turns out for my Brat and may not be the same for you. The idle speed screw I think that I barely changed, maybe .25 turns out more. I would make sure the mixture and idle screws are right before I messed with the choke. Hope that helps, Glenn Taylor. P.S. Did it want to run on sometimes after being cut off and get worser in cold weather?

That's a good one you have Meeky Mouse, hope my 87 Brat gets there someday. 87 Brat has almost 186k and uses like 8 oz. of oil per 3.5k, have owned this for over 6 years. 1993 Legacy fwd auto has 159k, this is my middle daughter's car and we have owned it almost three years, no leaks and uses about 8 oz. oil per 3k. Should be plenty of owners with 200k plus out their. I know of one out here that's not on the board that has 215k on a 91 Legacy but the trany is dead and he decided to scrap the car after using a shade tree mechanic to replace the transmission for $800 and it was the wrong transmission, didn't work right. He bought it new. Glenn Taylor.

AKIRA, When I had my Brat painted a couple of years ago I went ahead and bought a gal. Two coats of coverage and maybe a quart was left over that could be used for touch ups and such. If you buy three quarts it will cost as much as a gal. in most product lines, more than a gal in others. Glenn Taylor.

sixiron, you can add us to the happy 2003 L SE crowd. Wife bought one while we were visiting our daughter in Colorado. A 5 speed sedan, drove it back to eastern NC and it was a mighty comfortable ride. Bought in July and now have 10.5k miles on it. If you compare them to the Accord or Camery I think they are a better buy and resale is middle of the pack, plus all wheel drive bonus. You will need that more than us on the coast. I hope it holds up as well as my daughter's 93 Legacy fwd, 159k and still getting it. Hope you enjoy and Merry Christmas, Glenn Taylor.

Frag try the Kublin method that is also on their site to see what numbers you get. With Mobile 1 your figures will exceed 7.5k changes I am willing to bet. Glenn Taylor.