bratman2

I drilled the rubber out until I was able to knock the steel inner sleeve out. Then cut through the outside steel from the inside with a sawzall metal blade and it taps out with little to no effort. Just take your time. Can't remember if I had to cut the blade down to fit inside our found one that did! I had to have my new ones pressed in, they are tight!!

Rghunter, was that a Subaru dealer or a garage? If it was a dealer, you had a sorry dealer. If you had that issue from day one you should have taken it to a dealer, not a garage.

A slow head gasket oil leak, drive it! If needed step up one grade of oil. Or use the high mileage oil, it usually runs in the top end of whatever grade you buy it in. Like a 10w30 is a heavy 10w30, etc.

You are a lucky man!

The Aisin kits list the components to their kits. I used a Gates kits on my wife's XT bought earlier this year. It was a good kit except for the Chinese water pump which I did not install. Later kits bought this year by some have Chinese idlers. So like mentioned it is a moving target. When my daughter's 2010 Impreza is ready for TB I will most likely use the Aisin kit if the components listed are still top shelf. If not I'll pay the extra for Subaru components.

Talking to my brother, he did the installation himself, there was nothing out the ordinary to make them fit. It comes with some extra metal so before you trim it hold it in place and make sure what you need first. That was a quote! But to the best of his memory it was no different than any other metal replacement he has done. So not so sure you need Mill Supply to come up with anything different than what is already available. If I get a chance, nightshift, I'll try and post a picture of the finished job. He finished with some coating he called rock guard. Which I like, looks similar to a finer coat of bedliner.

I will ask my brother. He owns a bodyshop and they were installed there.

Helps to know what your working on? EA81 or EA82?

​These are the ones I used a couple of years ago on my 87 Brat. They are for a Loyale and will work. https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/subaru/

First muffler I installed on my 87 Brat was a "turbo Thrush" which is an oval muffler similar to the Magnaflow SS I currently have. I got around 5 or so years out of the first one and another 5 or so years out of the second one. Can't say they didn't sound decent. Just didn't last long. I have had the Magnaflow SS muffler for maybe 8-9 years now. Buy right once and be done if you plan on keeping it a long time.

What Keith3267 is describing is common on Moto Guzzi Norge motorcycles. Us older farts buy them, they are fairly big and heavy, have awesome Brembo brakes that get lightly used. Then brake shudder shows up from uneven pad compound on the front discs. Don't ask me how I know. So he may have a point. If nothing else it would be easy to try it. I have resorted to using more front brake on my Norge and switching to a different pad compound. !

A 3k change with synthetic is ridiculous with modern engines and oil. Plus Subarus don't tend to be very hard on oil unless turbo charged. So I think you have pretty good advice on 6-7.5k changes. I would go 7.5k myself!

Happy Thanksgiving to you also nipper! I'll throw my suggestion out there and why. Big on street bikes and have been for many years. I do not put them up for the winter. They may set for two or three weeks at a time depending on weather, work schedules and etc. I prefer a top off charge with a 1.5 amp medium charger that backs out as it gets charged. Over the years and many different motorcycle forums I always hear people complain about their battery dying after just a few years. Then claiming I don't understand why, I always kept it on a tender. I just replaced the original battery in my 09 Moto Guzzi this year. Just replaced the original battery in my wife's 2010 Yamaha Grizzly a few weeks ago. Neither battery was dead yet but both barely passed the load test for their CCA. Both would start either if freshly charged, say with in a day or two. So a top up charge periodically is what I do!

If the Impreza is huntingbetween gears your best off manually dropping it down a gear for it to hold that gear. At least until the grade levels off or becomes down hill. Like mentioned before it is actually less strain on the engine. Better yet it is much less strain on the automatic transmission too! I am familiar with some of the roads your talking about and have had the pleasure to cross them many times with my oldest daughter. She has a Rav4 with the 4 cyl. and we sometimes are turning 4-5k in those areas.

Another 2" with Magnaflow stainless steel muffler. Had mine for years and sounds good, not too loud!

For sloppy shifter I did what a older forum member named "Hassey" recommended maybe 15 years ago or more. It has still held tight to this day. I pulled the shifter linkage were it connected onto the shaft on the transmission. Split it just past the hole and drilled the hole out bigger. Ran a small bolt and tightened down. I am going to be changing the oil soon and see if I can get you a picture. Minimal cost (a bolt, washer and nut) and removed all play.

I got a stainless steel Magnaflow Y-pipe for a couple of hundred. Anything after that any muffler shop should be able to fab a decent exhaust for.

I think there is a little steel ball that sets on the spring. Oil pressure pushes on the ball until the spring gives allowing excess pressure to return to the pan.

Thinking it's a cinch was my first mistake on my wife's 2011 Forester XT. That is the toughest timing belt I have ever installed. Glad it isn't due for another 105k, lol! Anyways, I installed the smooth idler last, though it took a couple of hard fought attempts! Will probably have to do my daughter's 2010 Impreza before next year is out. Hope being it doesn't have double overhead cams will make it a touch easier.

My thoughts are if you do not have an EA82 5 speed dual range and you offroad go with the 4 speed dual range. I feel it has a very decent low range. Shifter slop is an easy fix, did my well over a decade ago and is still very tight. I have nearly 240k on my 4 speed dual range and except for a very minor rear seal leak it has been good. I have changed the oil a few times over the 19 years I have owned it!! Now just use MT90 and add about 8 oz a year.

You most likely need to check your owners manual. In 2005 is when some automatics changed to requiring type HP fluid. Earlier models, and some may have been in 2005 also, could use Dexron III. Kind of a transitional year. Like mentioned by Grossgary Castrol also makes atf fluid that is type HP compatible and many make fluids that are Dexron III compatible.

I was wondering if it might have slipped timing!

How many miles? What is the service history?

I used Beck/Arnley 039-6105. Got it on Ebay and has a metallic outer coating.

I guess I had a few fiddly issues too with the driver's side cams. Also every time I got to the last pulley I would be one tooth off. Accidently knocked the pin out the tensioner pulley. About ran me crazy! Feel really good about it being done! Good job to you also, I can relate!