bratman2
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Posts posted by bratman2
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Welcome to the Brat club and world of Subaru's.
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I bought a universal set of Accel 8mm spiral core many, many years ago. Still using them and last time I tested them they still showed about the same super low resistance of the spares left in the box. Two fittings and two boots I would have a second set.
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Reason I suggested factory was that was what I used was recommended by a couple of long time board users back then, this was a quite few years ago!!! Advance, Autozone are probably fine. I just have no experience with them on that but it seems others have which will probably save you dollars!!!
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I type so slow!! Nobody had responded when I had started. looking at the times of post I really suck at typing!!!
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You have a slide rail that the caliper kind of floats on. It can get dry and corrosion on it which can cause a caliper to not float back. Happened on the front of my daughter's 93 Legacy. The caliper itself was fine, rotor was toast, pad was toast. I wouldn't buy rebuilt calipers unless I knew they were the problem. I preferred Subaru rotors which may cost more but can be ordered on line to save some money. I have little knowledge of the E-brake so hopefully someone else will come along. For bleeding I have a little 4 once bottle with magnet and hose I purchased for a little of nothing. The bottle has a one way valve in it allowing easy bleeding. You just have to dump the bottle a few times each wheel to completely flush the system. I have used it for years and I will do a search and see if I can find who made it. Any decent brand dot 3 fluid will work. I would price factory pads along with the rotors for a price comparison. They may not be that much difference price wise and if so that is what I would go with. Matter of fact that is what I did , factory rotor and pads! Greased the slide rails slightly, flushed the brake system and sent her on her way! By the way I am no brake expert so my advice is worth what you invested in it, lol~!
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Being .1 is only 3.2 ounces I wouldn't sweat it too much. Truthfully I doubt anyone could tell 3.2 ounces difference on a dipstick. At the same time it is always good to have a little extra oil laying around for top offs down the road. So I would do like FairTax4me suggested. If you only have 5 quarts change it and give it a check. I wouldn't go out of my way for the .1 unless you already have it on hand.
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I had a short several years ago that if I hit a pothole or railroad tracks it would blow the ignition fuse. Finally on my third attempt to find it with the dash mostly disassembled I found it. My memory is bad but the best I can remember it was a little tiny 18 or 20 ga. wire on the back side of a bundle. It was just barely touching a piece of metal towards the firewall. Had been cut in two and every hard bump made it contact metal. I struggled to get the wire crimped back together and wrapped with multiple layers of tape. I even taped the edges of the piece of metal. Only thing that came on different was two dash lights if my memory is correct. Don't know why wiring for the dash lights would blow the ignition fuse??? That is a short, sounds like yours maybe a bad connector or connection. Electrical problems suck!
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A windshield that old is tough to remove in one piece. The gasket will be bonded to it pretty good. Also the glass will most likely be etched by sand and grit so it sparkles so to speak when the sun hits it making it tough to see out of. I would opt for a new windshield myself. Replaced mine in 01 with new.
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Gotcha! With the factory mounting in an EA81 engines laying in its side instead of straight up many later "made in Mexico" Accel coils would crap their oil out. So may not be a good choice for a new replacement. Wonder if anyone makes a better made comparable model that can be mounted on it's side?
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Like I posted previous I have been using the Accell Superstock coil for at least 15 years on my Brat. Looking back at them again I believe it is a 8140 model, USA made. Back in the late 90's several people were running them on EA81 motors. I have no idea what the resistance readings are on the coil. I also installed 8mm Accell wires at the same time. Though that is not the same coil you have.
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I bought a new assembly tail light from a dealer on the west coast in 2001. The other side had to be ordered from Japan. They had searched dealer stock all over the US and only one side could be found. This was the complete tail light assembly. Replacing the lens you will find the rubber gasket smashed pretty flat. Tighten up enough to keep water out will cause an old lenses to crack. I think I was set back about $240.00 with shipping for the pair. If you get a set of lenses try to see if you can sort out some kind of replacement gasket. Otherwise you will most likely have leaks or cracked lenses.
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Air is common in a Subaru cooling system and not good. If not burped or refilled with a slight raise in the frontend. That was your most likely culprit. Glad you seemed to have fixed your problem.
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Would be curious to see what you produce now myself. Actually I though 53 was pretty good going through an auto. Wish your engine was in my Brat! The .045 I think I got straight out the owners manual.
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Is the fixed fan a clutch style fan? The clutch could be bad. Do you have the fan shrouds that are for the fans? Shrouds allow air to be pulled across the whole radiator. The higher ratio of water as posted above the better ability to remove heat. Antifreeze is not coolant, it is antifreeze. You need some to combat corrosion. I would want the electric fan hooked to a thermo switch. There is no need to run it if at anytime it is not needed. A proper switch will cut it on in plenty of time to combat high temperatures. If you have a fixed fan, no clutch, and an electric fan running all the time could they possibly be preventing good air flow at highway speeds? Just wondering out loud on that one. I doubt too many fans would ever move the amount of air across your radiator that 55-60 mph would move. A lower temperature thermostat may help offset the climb to higher temperatures though I am not sure. I have run a lower 180 degree thermostat in my 87 Brat since the first time I ever changed it. That could well be over 15 years, since I have owned this Brat nearly 18 years. Going up in viscosity on your oil will remove less heat as thinner oil typical removes more internal heat. Though that is splitting hairs. Is it possible that your temperature gauge is not accurate? I would want it rechecked with an accurate gauge. Specially since your are not in the red. An infrared heat temperature gun could read the outside the core of your radiator just for a check. When I fill a Subaru cooling system I like to have the front end raised on jack stands or such. Helps eliminate air trapped in the cooling system.
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I would go with the lower ratio antifreeze too. I run a 1 to 2 ratio which is roughly 67% water. Have done so for at least the last dozen years on my old Brat if not longer.
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It was a simple mistake and happens to the best of us. Happens to me a lot so maybe I am the best of the best, lol!!! Glad your miss is gone and you are running smooth!
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I don't know why the major difference in gap! Maybe Australia gets a different plug than US models? Seems everything I read had the EA81 gap at what was just posted by ihscout54 and myself.
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I installed an Accel Super Stock yellow round coil maybe some 15 years or more ago. Have had no issue but really cannot claim any increase in power either. Seems they claimed up to 42K volts, do not what the actual is in my application. Some did have problems with these coils which was entirely related to poor quality control after out sourcing them. Only coil failure due to oil leaks if my memory serves me right! If it was me and I had it, I would install it. I would also probably use just standard NGK plugs gapped at .045, maybe even .048. The platinum plugs only benefit is longer change intervals, not performance.
I do average about 29-29.5 US mpg. Have broken 30mpg many times over the years. I also have a weber and 2-inch exhaust from the Y pipe back.
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Glad it went well. If the springs have raised your front end nearly 2-inches you may need to have the toe in adjusted out some.
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The KYB are highly rated but I think they discontinued them. I had seen some on Ebay last year when I was getting ready to redo my Brat. I decided to go with the Sachs because I was already ordering so much from Rockauto it only changed the shipping by 5 bucks or so. The KYB do not have the adjuster for height like the Gabriel and Sachs has. My Gabriel struts were about 14 years or more years old. The Sachs took twice as much effort to compress them and rebound back twice as fast if my memory is correct. Had no leaks but I could immediately tell a difference with the Sachs. I did several other things that also helped I am sure, such as control arm bushings, strut rod bushings, strut upper mounts. I wish you luck on your search. I also found a pair of the KYB gas adjust shocks for the rear. They were getting hard to find also because of being discontinued. I will try to search around a little and if I find a pair of the Sachs. I will let you know! . On AutoZone's website it stated they were special order, can they not order them for you?
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Rockauto, they do not list them anymore. I checked when I saw your post. I searched Autozone online and they listed them. You could Google Sachs 031-146 and I am sure someone has them in stock. I purchased mine last summer and installed early Fall.
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Okay, I looked your part numbers up. The struts you have are for an EA82. What I do when I need to order parts for my 87 Brat is search for 84 Brat parts. This helps eliminate cross reference to EA82 parts since they were no EA82 models in 1984. If you have not messed the struts up trying to install them, take them back!
Autozone list 031-146 as fitting an EA81.
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I have Sachs struts in my 87 Brat. Installed them last year. They were a drop in fit like the 13-14 year old Gabriel's they replaced. I don't remember the part number but it does sound like you have the wrong pair for an EA81.
Best Plug Wires
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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Coronan, if you want the fattest they will not be NGK. They are 7mm. The Accel wires have been on my Brat probably 15 years or more. I just found an universal kit with the boots I needed for the Brat. It came with a metal fitting to install in a bench vise and another fitting to strike against it with a hammer. Cut the wires to the length you need and crimp. When checked with an ohm meter these wires had about 1/3 the resistance of factory or off the shelf wires of similar length. They can be found on Ebay for very reasonable prices. You can probably find 8.8mm universals too!