bigjimd

Come on in leetle fella. Meet my German friend. http://www.emailvariety.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/rottweiler.jpg

Here's some usefull info. Your local auto parts store may have this. http://www.autobarn.net/hay89003.html And here

I feel stupid asking if El Salvador is close. I see on the map that you are next door neighbors.

Jezek, I just thought of something. I have a friend from El Salvador who runs a truck down there 2 or 3 times a year. Might I be able to hook you up with him to ship your parts? Does he have to go near your country to get there?

My daughter and I just did hers last week. Yes the screwdriver just goes in the bottom like you show. If you are worried about scatching the paint cut the side out of a milk jug and slide it in there first. You really don't have to pull the grill just have the hood open to reach the horizontal adjuster

Yowza you are a flocking wizard. Great project!

Those mounts may be in the older Ford Aerostars as well. Don't know if they shared between the 2 like they did with the B2000 and Rangers. Maybe pull some other door panels off. we put 6X9's in the rear hatch. Hardest part was pulling the wire through the existing rubber boot giz. Worked a piece of safety wire through first then used that to pull the speaker wires. Oh and the added weight means you have to have good struts. Don't ask where the lump on my head came from.

I found these mounts at the jy they are out of the front doors of an early Mazda van. I liked em cause they pulled the magnets out of the door and fit 6.5" speakers. Plus the angle did'nt hurt anything either. They may help you with options. If you have some extra seat fabridk you could glue some on the mount that would show through the door card. Just a thought.

That pic is of an aftermarket type unit for sure. Early 80's Volvos used the same type unit on their cars. Might be easy to adapt.

Really not a hard job at all. The hardest thing for me was getting the A/C bracket bolts back in cause of my big meat hooks. A bookwould be a good idea. Mark everything as you break it down. I use zip lock baggies to hold all the fastners. Write on em with a Sharpie so you know which assembly they are from. Might be a good idea to spray the exhaust maniflod nuts with PB Blaster for a few days before you start cause they can be a pain. Seems they snap the studs for a number of people. Would'nt be a bad idea to reseal it while you have it out. Lots and lots of great tips here if you spend some time digging around. Super friendly bunch here to. Folks here have sure helped me out.

Unless of course it looks like this! http://www.seriouswheels.com/1960-1969/1968-Dodge-Super-Bee-Red-FA.htm

Ooops! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utXihnuAoIo Found this a couple of years ago. Still makes me laugh. R rated for language.

Yup tape works great! I worked on the Navy base out there once. What a great piece of country. Saw the Kinetic races at Prince William I think was the name of the island too trick!!

We used to run a pair of 240 Volvo wagons. One had Gabrials the other KYB. The Gabrial equiped car would beat you up. The KYB car rode and handled much better. Almost identical cars. Both had the same tires as well. Only differance one was a turbo 5 speed the other n/a auto. KYB for my money.

Thanks for the info! And yes I agree about the test plugs. I did think that replacing the 2 solenoids would help the idle and i cleaned the valve well I thought. May not have gotten the spring really well so will hit it again. Think that valve would make it climb rpms when cold like it does?

Donnieru posted this on my question. Have you tried it this way? (Hey. The green one is read memory for current issues. The white one is d-check to read old stored codes. The green is used to set the timing. Neither of them are supposed to be hooked together during normal operation. It causes the flashing CEL because of it being in test mode without timing advance and such. Connecting both clears the codes. They are used by being hooked up and the ignition put in the on position.) Looks like you don't start it. Although I did.

Hunh he mutters. Never thought of that. But if so why did it wait to suface? Thanks for the tip I will check the wiring diagram.It has been running since reassembly with the whites hooked together and was idleing like it should. Now it goes to about 1750 or so at startup when cold. If you touch the gas it jumps to 2500 try and blip it again and it goes to 3000. After the tstat opens it drops to around 1250. Seems to hold rpm's if you blip it ittakes longer than it should to drop back down. Now have both connectors unhooked. CEL at crank. No CEL after start. Have cleaned the MAF giz with the proper CRC cleaner. Replaced both solenoids. Checked for vacuum leaks. Checked throttle cable movement. EGR valve bellows seems ok when you reach inside and push on it. It's only been a couple thousand mile if that since I looked at the PCV valve and it was moving freely. Guess I should look at that again. Idle air valve was cleaned and if you blew through it no air moved so valve is seating correctly but I swapped it with another that was cleaned and seemed good anyhow. Tried the dime with a hole drilled in it trick too. Thinking about replacing the temp sender. It's the 2 prong one in the tstat housing correct. The electric fan runs if jumped out but will not run with A/C on. Don't think its ever gotten hot enough to trigger the fan. Need to check the resistance on that sender at cold and after running for a while. Replaced the radiator, water pump and tsat when we got it just cause of the age of the car. I'm about ready to adjust the hard stop down.

See that's what I'm saying. A pain in the butt.Have you checked the wiring? The insulation gets stiff and you may have broken condutors, or corrosion maybe.

Wheew! I hate troubleshooting this stuff. I'm really good at replacing parts but this injection stuff --yuck. Plugged both together - green and white started the car, no CEL, like you, no blink, flash or anything. Unhook and start back up have CEL while cranking then goes out at start and stays out. First time since we got the car running a couple of years ago. Have fitted solenoids from a Mazda that closed with power on and blocked airflow. So I think I'm good there it was throwing a 34 & 35. Still can't get the blasted thing to idle down. Good luck with yours, hope the new part does the trick for you. It's a 93 Loyale here.

The upulits in our area get them at auctions and donations. Saw a really pretty SVX last year. The seats are now in my Toyota pickup. What a shame.

I was sure my daughters was self destructing when we first sarted it up after doing the same thing. What a racket. It sounds like a sewing machine now though.

I can't figure out these 2 sets of plugs. When I first bought this car both the green plugs and the white plugs were plugged in. After we resealed the motor and swapped in the 5mt MDJDC told me to unplug the green after setting the timing. Did so. Now I'm fighting a high idle, will hit that again tomorrow but while looking at stuff I keep looking at those 2 connectors. Whats the white one for? And the green one only gets plugged together to set the timing right? When we got it. The way things are now. Oops I took the whites apart to see if that would affect anything. It did the CEL stopped flashing but still idled high. So hooked em back up. Thanks hor any help!

Pretty work! Looking good. I really like how you integrated the new bumpers with the origional bumper ends.

Now this here page is SEXY !!

X2 on the stone guard. Looks perfect for the racks. Thanks!