bigjimd

Sweet find. Enjoy her. I love those Enkei wheels i had a set on a BMW 2002 in the early 80's. Came across this website the other day, and it sure sounds like just the stuff to keep em shiney. There are 2 cans on ebay right now for$20.00. http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/ http://cgi.ebay.com/2-GIBBS-BRAND-LUBRICANT-GUN-OIL-CLEANER-PENETRATING-OIL-/110701097647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19c64cb2af

Well the motor and trany are in. I'm sure you old timers will know, but I have to learn the hard way most times, but guess what. A turbo tranny takes a bigger clutch than a non turbo. Bigger diameter and higher spline count. A turbo tranny also has larger stub axles. bigger diameter and higher spline count. I caught the clutch early didn't see the stub axle till I tried to slide the half shafts back on. And here I was all paying attention to the pin alignment. Anybody need some fresh reman non turbo half shafts? Probably have a couple thousand miles on em. As much as I have been reading here you think I woulda caught that tidy little fact. Oh and 86 Turbo XT shifter and clutch bucket assemblies will not fit a 93 Loyale no how no way. I think the final drive ratio is the same not sure how it will be in the intermediate gears. Now lets see how long the rest takes me. Get the gage cluster swapped, install the cruise control, pedal bucket, steering column, wire up the back up lights, and clutch start interupt switch. I think I will wire the clutch switch to power a relay to energize the starter selenoid so the load comes off the ignitian switch. Seen a lot of you guys doing that and that's how I wired up the 91 Toyota pickup. It's been starting first time for the past 3 years with that mod. She found a sunroof, roof rack, and rear spoiler that's gotta get done too. Man I'm tired of the heat and humidity. Thanks for all the help y'all.

Pretty work!! What product did you use to seal the lens back up?

Triple bump? Anyone? Sunday it's going back in.

Yowza! Everyone should have a cherry picker in the back yard. I'm jealous.

This may help with the wiring, found it last night looking for a post on good relays to use. http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

Bump. Ready to put this in and don't want to have screwed up. Thanks Jim

Thanks guys!

Trying to wire the 5mt in and pulled the carpet back so I could get at the shifter area wires and found these. Can anyone tell me what they are for? 1993 Loyale wagon 2wd 3at. Also found little furry brothers house with some chewed wires. Glad I pulled it back. Just wondering what these are for if I ever need to find em again.

Bump

It's been said before but WOW I like that vehicle! You guys are gonna force me to build a Soob of my own yet. I just wish they were a little bigger all the way around it's tough working on the daughters wagon as big as I am.

Glad to help I thought the pic would make it easier. I have no idea what year that assembley is from other than being a Loyale wagon at the upulit. I do know that the darker pic is from an 86 XT as it came with the tranny we bought and they both had that little clip on em. The pin posistion is different on both of them. The outside picture one looks to me like it should be flipped around as it rubs on the housing.

Lookin good! I'm enjoying following this. I used to be part of a Mud Bog racing team. We did lots of things people said would never work. Most of the time they did and if not we just changed whatever and tried something else. One of the best was a stock S-10 front end being driven by an alcohol burning 14/71 supercharged all alluminum big block. That'l never work. That thing never broke. We just changed the push button engager to a cable operated rig and let er eat. Have you seen what happens to that transmission if you hang a second transfer case on it? That car would idle up a tree! I just saw a Brighton in the upulit this morning with a sweet full roll cage in it. Couldn't believe it. Good job and keep up the good work!

Here's a couple of pics I just took for you. I haven't put this in the car yet so it was easy. It looks like the kind of clip you have to pry off with a small screwdriver. Like the kind of thing that holds the wheels on toys. I would think it would be easier to unbolt the cable first. Good luck sure looks easier sittin on the trash can than in the car.

Whoa there partner. Thats alcohol abuse!!! Just don't knock the beer over while you'r doin it and everything should be ok.

Thanks guy's here's a run down of what I did with some pics of where I wound up when finished. The screwdriver is pointing to where the passenger cam mark is lined up. Does this sound/look right? 1. I had the motor at the center of the 3 belt marks before I broke into it. So that's where I started with putting the belts on after reassembling the cam's and all 2. Installed drivers belt with the cam pointing up. Tensioned belt. 3. Rotated crank-360deg-1 full revolution. Drivers cam pointed down , passenger cam pointing up. installed belt. Tensioned belt. 4. Rotated crank-360deg-1 full revolution. Driver cam up, passenger cam down. 5.From the above crank posistion rotated crank directly to the 0deg mark. 6. Installed cap on disty, marked body at #1 wire. 7. I had made a scratch mark on the disty and mount giz where the bolt goes before dissasembly so I now have that mark lined up with the rotor pointing at my #1 mark and the 0deg mark lined up. 8. Success?? I hope so anyhow. MilesFox if you read this I think it matches up with what you told me in your above post except for the part about pointing to the ridge over the Subaru script. Could the writting be in a different spot on some valve covers? Here are the pics Again all y'all rock thanks a bunch!!! Jim And before you ask no the tires arent the engine stand. They were to hold it while I swapped the bellhousing and flex plate for the flywheel. Aint it all pretty and shiney after getting refaced at the machine shop?

I would think there should be a clock lead you could tap. You don't need much for the memory power. I'd put an inline fuse just to be sure though.

OK one last question. At the end of this process having made all the revolutions clockwise, when I arrive back on the 0deg TDC mark I will be on the compresion stroke not exhaust stroke right? Whats throwing me is how do I know that I haven't got this thing 180deg out from where it was before I started? Or does that matter? As y'all can tell I know just enough to mess things up.

Wow what a sweet wagon!

Trying to get this puppy back together and am confusing myself. I just found MilesFox's great writeup on replacing the tbelts. I goofed up when I pulled the motor down and didn't mark the disty at TDC. Dumb of me to not realize I was gonna have to pull it when the cam cover came apart to clean everything. So between the book and the how to here I think I got it. The timing belt marks really have nothing to do with TDC so I just follow the writup. And then I keep following MilesFox's instructions to get to the 0 mark and install the disty with the rotor pointing at #1. Am I correct in that? Once again thank all y'all Here's the write up, a great help!!! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768

I install windows in steel doors at work every once in a while and use the Butyl Rubber tape. I get a roll at the glass shop that cuts the window. What they have is about a 1/4" wide and either 1/16" or 1/8" thick. I use the 1/16" cause I like to seal both sides of the glass. You should be able to pick it up at any commercial glass shop cheap. If the 2 surfaces are pretty straight, as in no big gap between the metal and tail light use the 1/16" that way not a lot will squish out at installation. It will come off well but some elbow grease will be in order. Make sure to put it where you want it the first time cause you won't be happy trying to reposistion it. I have never used this on a tail light, but I did use it to install the aftermarket sunroof from the upulit in my pickup with no leaks 3 years later. '

Looked at Fizgigs motor on the stand. Looked at the thermometer in the garage. Went back in the house!!!

Thanks Nickolai, is it normal for these to weep and is pipe dope a good fix?

I just got the flywheel off Fizgig (93 Loyale) and trying to decide whether to replace the main seal or not. It doesn't appear to be real wet but one of the 2 plugs with the big allen holes in it does look like it's leaking. Are these the pin access ports and is it safe to pull the weepy one out and hit it with some pipe dope? Thanks Jim

I've had vehicles do the snap sound before and been able to see the high tension leak in the dark. Try looking with it running at night. And I want to thank you for sending us that heat. It was beutifull last weekend. Mid 80's with low humidity. This weekend 101 with high humidity. And I need to get the drive train back in the daughters car. YeeHaa