bigjimd

Pretty work! Sorry but I had to laugh out loud, don't here to many stories here in Virginia that mention the bear breaking the window.

After seeing the silver wagon a few posts ago it reminded me to ask if anyone knows what the clips on the very tops of the wagon back seats are for. My daughter keeps wondering. I figure they might be for rear seat headrest's. Sorry should have specified. Loyale wagons.

There's an 89 Loyale in the upulit here now. Think it's a 2wd5mt. I could pick the ECU up for you this weekend if you like. They are pretty cheap and I would just need you to cover purchase and shipping if you are interested in it. Would get it in the mail Monday after work.

I know the flaming is coming but here it is anyway. My buddy and I are trying to get an HHO business going here. Our test mule was his 2004 ram 1500.We saw a constant 30% increase in MPG according to the built in overhead comp backed up by keeping track of mileage, and fuel purchase records. Most of the time pulling a box trailer with tools. We believe it would have been better with putting the O2 sensor in a well. We have an add on chip now that spoofs the computer. The next one goes on the wifes 08 Scion XD. We are hoping to get some short haul diesel fleet interest going next. We are going to offer a 30% increase gaurantee. If you don't see it we take our equipment back, and refund all your money. We know it works.

Here is some info from the manufacturer. Forget about this stuff. View Label (English/Español) View CPSIA Certificate View MSDS View Regulatory Data Sheet M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Ketone) (Discontinued) Klean-Strip 100% pure Methyl Ethyl Ketone is a thinner and remover for specified coatings, including polyester and epoxy resins, ink, adhesives and contact cement. It is recommended for use when a rate of evaporation slower than acetone is desired. Not intended for sale or use in California. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Product Number / Size QME71 - Quart GME71 - Gallon CME71 - 5 Gallon Directions for use Follow the coating manufacturer’s instructions for the proper amount of M.E.K. required; do not use more than recommended. IMPORTANT: Carefully read all directions, notes and cautions prior to use. Only use this product as directed on the label. Do not use as a fuel. Do not use for any other purpose. Do not spread this product over large surface areas because fire and health safety risks will increase dramatically. Protect eyes with chemical splash goggles and avoid prolonged skin contact. HELPFUL TIPS: Use only as specified by the coating, adhesive or hobby product manufacturer. Do not use as a general purpose cleaner. M.E.K. may soften or damage plastics, synthetics and many other finishes. Use only where specified, and test an inconspicuous area before application

I keep following this thread and just have to repeat that you have done a fantastic job with that car!!! If I could fit these wagons I would try and emulate what y'all are doing with these things. I barely fit in my 91 Toyota truck at 6'6", but it does have SVX seats. Makes me miss my 245 Volvos. Found this one at the upulit and brought it home before they started parting it out. I hope you don't mind a little highjack of your post I just wanted to give you a thumbs up, and share my Jed Clampet impersonation. P.S. Your headlight protectors are just uber cool too!!

No it wouldn't touch the rust. The Naval jelly and steel wool is you best bet with the wheels I would think. Mek is an industrial solvent. Very powerful at removing grease and such. If you had some on a rag it would have wiped the paint right off the window. I shouldn't have mentioned it though, it's highly flamable and not to be used without the proper care.

I think you misunderstood me. The MEK I recomended for removing the paint off the glass or chrome areas ONLY!!! It will take the paint right off around the tail light opening and probably not touch the silicone. Do not get that stuff on the paint!!! You may be better off just forgetting I mentioned it.

I will say it again y'all rock!!! Thanks RP got em ordered $6.00 after tax. Jim

Cured silicone is terible hard to move. Try a sharp piece of hard wood, sorta like a wood chisel if you know what I mean. I wouldn't think you need to get it all off. If you got the majority off the butyl rubber tape will seal to the silicone. Just try and level the silicone. As to the paint some MEK will wipe it right off. Methylethylketone. It's not something you want on your skin so you need nitrile gloves. DO NOT get it on any paint you don't want to remove cause it will ruin it!! Home Depot carries the chemical and the chemical resistant gloves.

RP, Great! Are these the reinforced type. The O-Ring's that came out are smooshed flat and out of shape. Jim

Stopped by the NAPA store on the way home. Couldn't find the ® o-ring as you showed in the picture however they did offer other AC o-rings that looked similar. Will take one of the old ones by tomorrow and see what I can come up with. Thanks again Doug for all the pics. I hope all this info helps others. I know all y'all have helped me figure this issue out. Jim

Doug, The ® type o-rings you pictured above, are they the factory replacement items? Don't want to order and have something else show up. Jim

Q thanks yeah bushing makes more sense as they are a tube. S-N did you go back together with new or rebuilt HLA's? Mine are fresh from Mizpah so they should operate correctly. As another poster taught me as long as the oil passage is open I should be ok if the cam, and rockers aren't worn. I worry about the wear in the bottom of the bore. If that's to much then I would have to shim? I sure don't have specs for that or a way to measure. I think I'm doing my standard over thinking and should just put the thing back together. I just really don't want to dissapoint my baby girl and have this thing clack again.

Think about heating em with a torch to cherry red and let em air cool. We did to the head gaskets when we put the mud bog motor back together. It was supposed to soften the copper and help em seal. That was an aluminum block and o-ring aluminum heads type motor. 590 ci 14-71 blown alcohol burner. We reused the gaskets often. We never had a problem with combustion chamber sealing. I mentioned the ac o-rings as my local guru showed em to me. I watched him pull em out of a cam carrier and they still looked perfect and the motor had been run for a lot of miles.

Once again great info. Thanks for all the help. Was at dealership yesterda ordering paqrts, I will call back and get those ® o-rings. Was hoping for something better as even the ® type don't seem to last all that long. Jim

So just to clarify y'all. I'm gonna do the following. 1. Replace the o-ring on the oil pickup. 2. Reseal and o-ring the oil pump (second time in a few months). 3. Have had Mizpah rebuild the HLA's 4. Replace the o-rings between the cam carrier and head with fat ac type o-rings (my local guru's tip) 5. Prime the HLA's prior to assembly. 6. Replace front crank seal. 7. Replace cam holder o-rings (behind pully) 8. New valve cover gaskets. 9. Mani gaskets. 10. New PVC valve. 11. Clean PCV hoses. 12. Leave rear main alone unless leaking (haven't pulled off stand to change flywheel yet) so haven't seen it yet. I have one if needed. 13. Turn flywheel to clean a bit of rust off. 14. New clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. 15. Bye Bye 3at. 16. Swap oil pressure sender out so new gauge cluster will work. (auto unit so lights will be right). 17. New heater hose's. 18. New tstat. 19. Radiator was new a year ago when we first put her on the road and new rad hoses at same time. 20. Half shafts replaced a year ago as well. Cruise and sunroof toooo. Thank's Don! Am I missing anything?? Thanks a million, y'all rock!!!! Jim

Cool, so I do this before I put the cam and carriers back together and they will stay primed till I get the motor back in the car?

Wow what a great idea!!! I love it wish i had a seen this before we pulled my buddies Polaris ATV down. Great tip!!! A wedge bolt who'd a thunk? You de man!

If you need on I'm going back to the upulit Sunday and there are a couple there. Should get it for free or a couple of dollars and it weighs nothing so USPS should be cheap.

I don't have any tips for y'all but I used to run 45mmDCOE's on a BMW 2002. Had the same problem with them. Evey once in a while I'd put the velocity stacks on to play and man did that thing sound sweet at 7500 grand, those Webers just screamed.

Miles I can't agree more. Taking your time is key. I admit I am not real good about that. I actually thought the second one was moving .... right up till it snapped. I did rush them both truth be told. And the results I had at the upulit today are a direct corelation of hurrying things.

I think drilling those holes in the gunk, letting it sit for a couple days full of penetrating oil, some pessure from the wedges and wiggling the other end around a bunch all helped. I did have a bolt in the center hole on the other end to give the wedges something to push against, but be very careful with the wedges. I'm hoping I didn't wreak anything, you create a huge amount of force really quick when you drive those 2 wedges against each other. I had about a 1/4 gap on the loose side and just drove them good and snug then tightened the bolt a bit. Rapped the stuck side with a brass hammer before and after work for a couple days. We went to the upulit today thinking we were gonna get some replacement mani bolts and all 6 of the bolts on one engine were terrible to get out, they came but were really ugly and I'm sure at least 1 was ready to let go. They were bent and plain ugly. Will order new bolts going back in. Anybody grease the bolts or anything to keep this from happening? Baby girl scored a nice sunroof for $23.00 she can't wait to get Fizgig back together again. Gonna be sorry to see the steer horns go.

GOT IT !!!! Smacked it around after work last night and she finally gave in and opened up. The wedge popped it off. Guess the Kroil finally got the goo loose. Both broken bolts came right out with the Vice Grips. Yipee Yahoo. Thanks again for all the help. Jim

Thanks for the tip. Hadn't seen that in all my searching. I will do that while the motor is on the stand. Jim