bigjimd

Thanks for the info. I saw that it was a sleeve but thought I had read of it being called a bucket. I do have the carriers and cam off so I will check to make sure that everything is spotless before reassembly. I can see some wear at the base of the bore. Do you think there may be enough wear that I need to worry about shiming the HLA? Y'all are making me paranoid about filtrarion with this motor I'm liable to wind up with a pair of external filters when all's said and done. I do not want to hear the TOD again!!!!!

Anybody?

Thanks a lot y'all. I wish I had never heard of screw extractors. I always tell myself never again. Done that at least 3 times. You should have seen the size of the stud that wound up holding the ex manifold on my old Volvo turbo wagon. A bunch of 10mm and then what is that 9/16" stud doin there. Ugly!!! I am determined to win this battle. What scares me about trying to drill it is the length of bolt still in there and how tight a grip the blasted goo has. Thankfully I have access to a fantastic hardware store that stocks left twist drills. If my plan for tonight doesn't work I'll try that next. Then I guess it's sawzall time.

Thanks, heats what I'm thinking too. Wish I could think of something that would disolve that gunk. Got turned on to Kroil in the 70's when I worked for Mcdonell Douglas. Has always worked well. Tried PB and not really seen a diferance between the 2.

One more question and I will be quiet for a while I promise. There was a post a while back about the lifter bucket height being goofy. The Op talked about using washers as shims someone suggested dimes as he was having a hard time getting even rebuilt HLA's to shut up. I know next to nothing about setting these motors up and am wondering if I will have an issue with continued TOD upon reassembly with freshly rebuilt HLA's myself due to these bucket heights. These pics are of the right side both inboard ones are flush the outboard ones are raised at least a 1/16th or more and the left ones just all vary. Looking at the bottom where the lifter rides It looks a bit worn. Again thanks Jim

Please y'all some help would be great. Now I have 2 broken mani bolts. First one left a stub about a 1/4" or so, no problem. Bad part is second one the head wrung off. I soaked these puppies for a week in Kano Kroil, before I broke em. The second bolt has the anular space around the bolt filled with years of baked gunk. Tonight I started trying to clean that space. started with a tiny drill bit and punched a bunch of holes down in the funk, then got brilliant and made a bit out of 16ga SS tie wire. Bottomed out the bit and tried to go deeper with the wire. As you can see the first attempt didn't work so well. Second shorter one did better sorta kinda knocked some crud out between the already drilled holes. Another smartness was the oak wedges. Hope I didn't crush anything.I didn't really go crazy with the hammer on em. Got the space I made filled with KanoKroil now. Can't get the sucker to budge any ideas? Can't spin it because the stubby bolt remains limit side to side. Haven't put any heat on it yet. Scraped off the oozed out gasket at the mani to head junction and I swear someone put a leather washer there. Tried driving the wedge in there too. Thinking about tring to find a piece of tubing that will fit the space with some teeth cut in it to try and run down the hole. Thanks in advance for any tips Jim

I have one of the radio adapters here you can have for $5.00 plus shipping if you want it. I think that's what I paid for it at the upulit. It's deeper so the longer style radidios will fit.

Hiya. And welcome I'm a relativly new member here as well. I'm working on the same issue, among others. If you search (tick of death) or tod you will find gobs of info. You can send the lifters out to be rebuilt once you have them out. Mizpah is another key word to search. If you look at my recent post you will see some of the info there as foks here have been helping me. Sorry I didn't answer your question. Yup the cam will have to be removed.

Got the rebuilt lifters back from Mizpah!!

Off to a great start!! Here's another great site for Yota info. http://www.yotatech.com/forumindex.php

Broke off an intake manifold bolt on Fizgig. Been soaking that blasted thing for 2 weeks with Kano Kroil. Oh well. Heli coil time.

Thanks PM sent. Would love the link.

Got some upulit love. Speedo cable, clutch cable, and pedal bucket for the Loyale 3at to 5mt swap. $21.00

No ideas? No one has ever swaped the cruise into a non cruise car?

I would run this if it were me buying it. http://www.uhaul.com/MovingSupplies/Hitches.aspx

Searched but no luck. Anyone know how hard it is to pull a cruise sysetm and install it in a non cruise car? Anyone think the wiring is already there? Major hickup will be Fizgig came as a 3at type she will soon be a 5mt. Swapping the gauge cluster to the full gauge style. Got that almost done this evening, even swapped the speedo so the millage stayed right. Thanks for any input. Jim

Ruparts, You nailed it. Thanks. The bolts stay in and the collar pulls out of the grommet. And the 2 clusters are way differant. Back to the upulitJim

Well one of y'all is right. I was leaning towards the collar idea myself thats why the tape and locater marks. Jim

Thanks I started to loosen them then thought better of it. Only cracked em loose. So the bucket won't fit hunh? Well now I get to go back to the upulit tomorrow. Any one know about the speedo cable? Jim

Hey y'all I need a bit of help. Trying to swap the pedal cluster in Fizgig (93 Loyale). I've read all the posts I can find on the subject and it seems that you pull the column to make it easier. Well it's almost out but these 2 bolts have stopped me. The 2 on either side of the blue tape. Should these be removed or left in place? Also does the plug just below the column accept the clutch cable? Does anyone know if the clutch cable and speedo cable that came with the XT pedal bucket are gonna work in the Loyale? Thanks a bunch Jim And I gotta add that aint none of this easy if you are 6'6" and 300lb yowza it tight in there.

I had the same problem with my 91 Toyota pickup. Tried 2 new starters, new contacts, and a lot of fussin. Then I found this trick. Been over 2 years now and always starts. Go down past the contact replacement part to get to the relay installation. I used an old Volvo diesel glow plug relay from the upulit. Jim http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml#OtherOptions

Pretty work! Custom fab always makes me smile when done well. Just a thought but how about a push push latching swith in the door panel that you could hit with your elbow for the 4wd. Here's a sample sheet. Jim http://www.apem.com/pushbutton.html

Cool, wish it would work in the Loyale. How do I make sure its a 1.8 type trany? An uncle drove an XT for a while. Never got to see it up close. Trick car I looked at Google pics. I love these cars just wish I fit em. At 6'6" and 300 it's tough to get in. Got in Mike's Forrester the other day loads of head room but my knee smash's the console, still I'm thinking about selling the truck.

Got this with the transmission we bought. I know it won't fit Fizgig but what does it fit and does anyone need it? Jim

Moving right along with Fizgig, spent the last 2 nights cleaning the motor and gathering parts. Got the rear main seal today and I think thats it. So new clutch kit and all the externally replaceable seals now. Will pull the cam towers sunday. We picked up a full gauge type cluster a while back and plan to swap that while we have her down. I took the oil sending unit at the same time. I'm hoping that It will be the same as my old Toyota pickup and it's plug and play. I do remember that it was a Loyale and not a GL. Don't remember if it was a 5speed or an auto. Do y'all think I will have to do any wiring for the new cluster? We are also swapping out the 3at for the 5mt. She's a fwd kinda girl. Thanks Jim Oh forgot to ask, Mike showed me the tiny oriface in the oil pipe bolted to the cam carrier. Can you open that a bit for better oil flow?