putertopia

Hey guys, Just wanted to let you know I got this solved. I called four junkyards in the area on Friday, nobody had an ej22 pulley. I didn't call the one nearest because they're usually known for their domestics. Decided to call them yesterday and they had a 'lightly chipped' pulley from a 94 leg for $20. Stopped by, the chips are barely anything and I don't think I'll have a problem with it so I picked it up. Picked up a 3/16" x 5/8" woodruff key from the local Fastenal. It's all back together, made sure I used loctite this time too lol. Thought I did last time but there was no blue on the crank bolt. Also cleaned up the mating surfaces between the crank pulley and the crank timing sprocket. I think I'll be set this time.

Yeah lol not like I'm takin her up to 6k constantly, maybe 5 for the short ramps on the highways but certainly not 6, that's what the stang is for B-). However, travel would not be possible in the winter without this car so even though I got it cheap, I would still like run well for as long as possible. At 235k it runs well, little hesitant at times, but not enough to convince me to investigate into it. Anyhow, the e-bay auction is for a pulley for an EJ motor right? Either the EJ22 or EJ25. I'm about to pick that up if so

Another thing that threw me off is that I was under the influence that these engines are internally balanced. While the crank pulley is balanced to maintain the balance in itself, a more correct term would be crank pulley rather than harmonic balancer, correct? Are 2.5s also internally balanced?

I did a timing belt job in my 92 Legacy about 5,000 miles ago. Funny thing is that I had to do it because the timing belt was done 5,000 mi before that by an incompetent mechanic who ripped the threads out of an idler pulley for timing belt. Evidently, I did not tighten the crank pulley to 140 ft lbs as specified because my woodruff is toast, as well as the inside of my crank pulley. Got it all out, looks like I can just slap a new woodruff and a crank pulley on and I'm good to go. Problem is, the cheapest pulley I can find new is $140 and used is $75. Now I know there's gotta be more used parts out there that would be cheaper, half the problem is the junk yards around here typically just crush cars like mine when they come in (or so they say). I'm setting out tomorrow in search of more junkyards to find a crank pulley, buttt what stops me from using this pulley? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Harmonic-Balancer-Crank-Shaft-Pulley-/230614106607?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b1ac01ef It says not compatible for my year... I can't imagine they changed a crank pulley between years like that though and I've seen others for sale that are for a 90-99 model? Any of you who have been through this have any input?

Wiring is different color from under the dash to the wiper motor... I wish I could figure out what's in between or where everything goes. I may just rig up manual switch for now just so I have wipers and mist again, but I don't know if that will pass PA inspection. Thanks

Well, I am completely baffled. Resistance checks on switch were OK, Fuse was OK (and getting power), I could run jumper wires from the batt to the low speed and high speed pins (plus the ground wire) on the motor and the wipers would respond accordingly, AND even weirder yet, the voltages on the low and high speed pins are showing on the female end (coming from car). I would spring to try a new switch, but I don't know where to get one. I really wish I had an extra switch and wiper motor laying around lol this would go a lot faster. Theoretically, this should work

Found a service manual... switch is operating as it's supposed to. Now I'm confused... both sides of fuse have voltage, wiper motor works when jumped from batt... bad ground somewhere????

There is power to the fuse, just double checked it. Not sure at this point - I guess I'm down to trying a new switch. I wish I had a wiring diagram for this thing so I could see what wires are what, and possibly just set up some kind of wire under the dash so if I need wipers I can have them, considering we're about to see a little snow here.

This morning I was too lazy to wipe the snow/ice off the window, and I wish I would have just done it. They moved a bit, then stopped after I heard a rapid paced clicking noise inside the steering column. Sounded kind of like a relay. As a matter of fact, I was on my way to get my new tires installed and get it aligned . When I got back, I checked the fuse - good - replaced anyway for kicks. Running a jumper wire from the battery to the wiper motor, it works. Same for the mist function on the bottle. NOTHING works from the stalk, however. I was getting ready to pull the switch off, but it looks like I need a steering wheel puller. In an effort to not have to run back into town tonight to rent one from Autozone, I'd like to know, is there anything else I should be looking at? To me, it seems like the switch went kaput. Guess the snow was a bit too much of a load, and I can't find a wiper relay anywhere which doesn't make sense.

Yeah I called around on the right angle fitting for the drill, it was like all the big stores like Lowes and Home Depot were out of them, and harbor freight is bout 60 miles away unfortunately . But yeah you can tell I was getting tired of dealing with this thing lol. Originally, I had to drill the hole out in the center of the bearing to accomodate the m12x1.25 bolt I had to fit through it. When I couldn't drill that hole out, I decided to go back to the m10x1.25 and a heli coil, and when I was done I felt confident I wouldn't have to mess with it again.

Well everything is running - finally. I ordered several different taps to get the hole to an m12 x 1.25. Well turns out the material inside those bearings are the hardest material I've ever worked with, with the ability to completely destroy two good drill bits, yet the pulley looks nearly unscathed. Ended up throwing in a heli coil that my fiance's grandfather just happened to have laying in my view while I was over there the today, works perfectly. Just went ahead and used loctite on everything (very smalllll dab at the end of the bolts) just to make sure I don't have to do anything like this again any time soon. I let it run for about fifteen minutes to burn the oil off the exhaust mani while around a fire extinguisher and to burp the coolant system. Even replaced a bulb on the interior so the light turns on with the door. I couldn't get the dumb grin off my face for the first drive. BTW, turns out a drill still doesn't fit between the front of the motor and the a/c condenser with the rad removed. Ended up using a drill bit around 10.7mm with a channel locks over about 45 minutes time to very carefully manually drill the hole by hand. Worked surprisingly well, I was prepared for the worst, just kept the airgun on it to keep the shavings out of the hole. Thank god that hole just happened to be the exact correct size for a helicoil. Thanks guys, excited to start driving this thing again

Got it all apart within about an hour. Half of the belt is gone. I couldn't even see the tensioner because everything was covered in belt dust, then I used the air hose to blow everything off and found it lol. The idler pulley to the left of the crank was loose. Tried to tighten it, kept spinning. Pulled it out, it looks like someone ripped the threads out of the hole and tried to use red loctite to stop it from coming back out. Obviously that didn't work, and would explain why the belt kept scooting to the outer edge of the pulley and grinding itself up. Could I use a helicoil on this type of situation? P.S. Yes, timing is off.

Uhhh... took the left side cam tbelt cover off... there's shredded belt everywhere and it looks like the outer edge of the belt is missing a sizeable amoumt of material, no cracks though lol. I guess at least this was done recently, shouldn't be hard when I have to pull that crank pulley off to do another entire tbelt job lol. I can't see any marks on the belt they're all rubbed off, gonna check the right against the left in a bit. Will let you know when she's back on the road again, after seeing that t-belt I actually feel slightly relieved lol, although I haven't officially confirmed timing is off yet.

Off to work... I'll be back tonight to check on this thread and maybe have a look at the motor with timing belt cover off. Thanks guys, appreciate it .

Here's two vids... yes there's a golfball size hole in the muffler and the airbox has two ~2" holes drilled in the bottom.

Ah my bad, being stupid and forgot 92 Legacy AWD Sedan 2.2L. Previous owner did a timing belt job, has a NAPA sticker on it saying the timing belt is about 6k miles old, I wonder if they screwed up the tensioner or something hmmm. I'm uploading a video right now.

Ugh, this thing ran perfect yesterday, started it up today and it had awful hesitation in lower RPM range (up to like 3 grand it ran like poop and forget accelerating on the highway). Right now, if I floor it while parked in neutral it bumps up to 1700 RPM then falls to almost dead then goes back up to 1700 RPM. It'll rev if you're easy on it. It's running rich as hell, there's moisture in the tailpipe but the plugs weren't covered in soot until I tried running it without MAF and/or TPS plugged, which makes sense. She still drives, I drove it 60 miles today because I had no choice, had an exam that I had to get to. Performance is just less than adequate and if ya floor it in the lower RPM range while in gear it wants to stall. I've done a compression test, and it seems like the two passenger side cylinders are producing almost no compression. Drivers side cylinders said 60, but this autozone compression tester has me wondering if it's working properly because I put 130psi of shop air into it and it SLOWLY climbed to 60. I only bought the car like maybe a month ago... local junker wants $300 for an engine with unknown mileage. I also tried unplugging the injectors, the only one that made very little difference (but still made a difference) is the on the passenger side closest to the front. If I pulled the spark plug wire, it would start arcing at the ignition coil to the bolts holding the coil on. I took the oil cap off, and there is air coming out, but no smoke and if I remember correctly all my cars have had a little air coming out of the oil filler tube. It's not enough to blow at my face standing above it but I can feel and see little tiny oil droplets blowing out. It's has 219k miles... I understand if it's out but the reason I got this car is because all my friends were like 'oh yeah! I had onea those! Lasted 3xx,xxx miles!' or 'Still kickin at 280k miles'. As a college student and my Mustang taking up my garage in the middle of a transmission rebuild right now, this is not what I wanted to hear.

Hi guys, Pretty sure I know what this is, but just want a confirmation. Picked up a 92 Legacy AWD sedan w/ 217k miles on it for 600 bucks the other day. I currently drive a lightly modified 95 Mustang GT as my daily driver and that's not the most gas efficient car and its USELESS in the wet and especially snow. I'm excited for this car, as it seems like a very comfortable ride. Drove it 105 miles home with no problem, and it looks like this guy took great care of it. Dirtier inside than it is under the hood, which is cleaner than my well taken care of stang Up to date NAPA service stickers all over the place indicate that it was well taken care of, I spy new plugs, wires, EVAP system, fresh coolant, fresh oil, filter & air filter, and he said he had the rear diff and one of the front axles replaced. Needs a muffler and a repair in the windshield. Here's my question: With the clutch out in neutral at a standstill, or while accelerating in gear, I hear a bearing noise relative to engine RPM. Input shaft bearing? Push the clutch in in neutral and it goes away. I really don't want to rip anything apart on this car yet so I was gonna drive it and see if it got worse. It doesn't affect how it runs, I'm just anal. It's fine once you get up to speed, can't even hear it. Second question... shifter is sloppy as all get out. Front and back is fine, but side to side has like 4 inches of play while in gear. Having a short shifter in the stang, this is very noticeable and annoying. Inspected everything from inside the car today, all is well. Will get under it eventually, but what can I expect to find? Thanks guys! - Josh