buffbuh

I had to look up that word - sorry to dig this post out of the grave... But thanks for the quick reply! I guess Subaru moved to SOHC from DOHC - but I suppose I could put in a 2.5L DOHC 97 or 98? However, the good new is ... I actually just pulled my transmission and found that the engine was NOT the problem. The Kennedy fly wheel was broken. Buffbuh

Switch 1997 Subaru 2.2L for 2000/2001 2.5L I guess I can do that then, right? Without changing the computer or wire harness? Right? Just the exhaust header? Nothing else that I need to worry about? Buffbuh South Jordan, UT

A fourth way has been brought to my attention. Option 4: Widen key way to get 90-degree side-wall, use original key, and a second modified key to fill in the gap and go flush with outer diameter of balancer. Use JB Weld to stick it all together. Eric does a good job of summarizing different ways to approach and the way he chose to do it in the end (my new Option 4). crankshaft_keyway_repair Bryan

Subaru Crankshaft Bolt Extraction and Timing Gear Removal As I suspected, the key-way is damaged, slanted on the edge, leaving a gap when the key is inserted. Option 1: JB Weld. Option 2: Widen key-way, and insert custom key. Maybe use JB Weld, too. Option 3: Tig weld and grind key-way to original size, use original key. We're looking at Option 2 right now - get wider key, and modify it to fit new widened key-way AND fit balancer & timing gear. More pictures to come as we progress. Buffbuh

This timing gear has two threaded holes for pulling-off purposes. But the face of the timing gear was shaved, so the first thread(s) are stripped. I guess I need to tap it, but I'm not sure of the size - is it M8/M1.25? Buffbuh

OK - I shouldn't have a problem there then, I just need to get the key out and timing gear off. I guess I better find that manual. I need it for timing instructions anyways. I finally found a similar thread to mine with similar problem. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49495 They mention Denver Colorado's swingauto "pin" solution. It seems that would compromise harmonics - hole drilling, pins and such. And it seems to me all that it does is keep the balancer and timing gear aligned. It still seems (looking at the pictures) the load is on the key and key-way within the timing gear. I suppose the pin solution only helps if the key and key-way are damaged on the balancer side of the key-way, but the other half of the key-way where the timing gear is at is OK still. I still have yet to get the timing gear off and assess the total key-way damage. Pictures so far: Subaru 2.2L Crankshaft Bolt Extraction Buffbuh

(Set drill in reverse to use Left Handed bit.) I went to two places to size up this crankshaft bolt. The thread is 1.5mm, but it doesn't fit M12 or M14. Is it M13 ??? So I can't make a home-made harmonic balancer installer for this, as it is not a standard size. Grrrr.... What have any of YOU used to seat your harmonic balancer? It is not recommended to put all that force on the crankshaft bolt. That should be installed AFTER seating the harmonic balancer, then torqued to spec, right? (Spec per discussions on this board is not enough - some have torqued from 100 ft.lbs. to 140 ft.lbs.) Buffbuh

Cobalt is a material good for drilling metals - I read even better than Titanium bits because the Titanium are usually Titanium "coated", so the coat can wear off, and then you're left with a steel bit. Cobalt bit is Cobalt through and through. Irwin Hanson Set 11119 comes with 5 different sized ez-outs and 5 corresponding Cobalt Left-Handed bits. Two local NAPA's both had them in stock for virtually the same price I could get them online. No other auto or hardware place I called had this set - some could order it, others couldn't order it at all (not even Sears). Individual Left Handed Irwin Hanson cobalt bits can be bought at LOWES. If you only need a couple of bits, I'd go that way. If you want all five sizes, get the set. But since you know where to get them right away now - no hurry! I hope this kind of information is OK to post ... let me know if it's not. Buffbuh

I used a hole-chasing like wire brush and Berryman B-12 carb cleaner to clean the threads, then my new bolt just went right in. I don't know if it needs to be chased with a tap if the bolt goes right in nice. ??? I do plan to use JB Weld on key and key-way. I don't have a welder, and no welding experience. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for ALL the input. Buffbuh

Good advice, GeneralDisorder! I did use right-handed bit at first (didn't have left-handed bits). I used a drill "guide" (like a long spacer that fit inside the crankshaft bolt hole and a drill could then spin inside the spacer) to make sure I got pretty centered. Then I tried using an extractor (easy-out). I tapped it in with a hammer - got a good bite. Just used hand to turn it, not all my strength. It wouldn't come out, and I didn't want to break it. So, I decided to go with a bit a size bigger. I had bought the 10-piece Hanson Left-Handed bit and extractor set. Left-Handed bits sounded a lot better. So I got the next size up bit, went to drill the hole bigger, and that Left-Handed bit just took that sucker right OUT! YEAH! Then I read your post... Now to assess the key-way damage.... see what I can do there. More to come... pictures later ... Buffbuh

That's right, upon further investigation, I found that the crankshaft bolt broke off about where the threads start. The good news is probably no need for tapping and Heli-Coil. I have to drill the left-over bolt piece with drill bit and use an easy-out. I also now have a better view of the key. The key is bent over, and the key way may be compromised/damaged a bit. I'll update and include pictures later. Hopefully it's repairable. Buffbuh

Figured out how to start new thread. Had to go to top of thread group. My Harmonic Balancer came off, and left the crankshaft threads stripped. I'm planning on using Time Sert or Heli Coil to fix the problem. I'm not sure if the Time Sert will seat in far enough before seating. I couldn't seem to find any thread on USMB describing someone doing this. Usually people have a key problem - mine was still in there unharmed - just the threads inside got stripped - that's where the damage happened. Has anyone out there done this before (Heli-Coil or Time Sert in Crankshaft)? I will be using new timing gear, new Harmonic Balancer (should I get aluminum pulley, or stick with rubber-separated), new belt - drill, insert "sert", use blue loctite, tighten down to maybe 135 ft/lbs. 1997 2.2L Subaru

I couldn't figure out how to start a new thread. How do I do that? My Harmonic Balancer came off, and left the crankshaft threads stripped. I'm planning on using Time Sert or Heli Coil to fix the problem. I'm not sure if the Time Sert will seat in far enough before seating. I couldn't seem to find any thread on USMB describing someone doing this. Usually people have a key problem - mine was still in there unharmed - just the threads inside got stripped - that's where the damage happened. Has anyone out there done this before (Heli-Coil or Time Sert in Crankshaft)? I will be using new timing gear, new Harmonic Balancer (should I get aluminum pulley, or stick with rubber-separated), new belt - drill, insert "sert", use blue loctite, tighten down to maybe 135 ft/lbs. 1997 2.2L Subaru