mutantfab

Also, Ring and pinion can be made to any ratio. I'm shooting for a 4.88 to match my front diff. Should have a good low range for offroad. Brian

91 Gloyale You have some very good points. The reason I'm going this route is a the simplicity of the spfi, b I can double up on every fi part there is to this engine and put it in a 50 cal. ammo can to take on the trail. c I could be wrong on this but I believe the ea 82 is lighter, smaller, and doesn't have the sump issues like the ej. also doesn't hang as low. d Have a good running ea 82. e I believe the bellhousing can be slotted for the upper bolts to be welded so I shouldn't need the adapter. Just not sure on dowel pins lining up. or if that can be modified. f The ea 82 flywheel can easily be machined for the 12mm spacer. then use a ej flywheel to interface with the tranny. g As far as swapping tranny internals, I'm not real familiar with what interchanges. So I would rather just work with what I have. h I won't be using the locking collar. This tranny if all goes well will be 4wd and will get a actual low range transfer case bolted to it in place of the center diff. This will give a 2.72 to 1 low range after the tranny. Not before it like the dr. i Finally since I suffer from a.d.d. and a lack of self control in regards to the skinny pedal I would rather not have a huge amount of torque to rip apart my new creation. As time progresses and this prototype is refined, I can then look into bigger and more powerful engines. Since I will be working with a ej tranny I can bolt anything to it down the road. I hope this clears up my twisted way of thinking. Brian

Thanks Gd I will run steel tubing through the center tunnel of the pan. Since this is a fiberglass buggy I'm hoping to put my radiator in the front to add weight and a possible large heat source for the open cab. Flipping the manifold will put both hoses together making this easier and cleaner. I didn't take into account the heater hose. I will have to give that one some thought. No circulation problems with this idea right? Also, for the tubing I may cut the inlet off of four pick n pull water pumps to weld on the tubing for my bead roll. As for the bellhousing, if it's minor interference I will try to releive it. Thanks Brian

Can I flip the intake manifold around so the thermostat housing and outlet is pointing to the rear of the engine on the driver side. The only problem I can see would be slow circulation in the passenger side cylinders, would this be the case? I only say this because water pump and outlet would be on the same side? The reason for the flip is this will be a rear mounted engine and if it doesn't cause circulation problems will help clean things up and get the outlet pointed toward the front of the vehicle. The inlet would be cut and turned 180 degrees to also point forward. This will also put both hoses next to each other for cleaner routing. Brian

Gd Your the man!!! Thanks. Brian

any way to rig it so it won't set off any codes? I would rather only have codes when something legit is wrong. Maybe relocate solenoids and leave them hooked to the computer but nothing else?? Brian

spfi Brian

This engine will be going into a buggy that isn't required to be smogged. I'm just trying to trim the fat and clean things up. Brian

Can I remove the switches and wiring for the egr and evap canister without causing problems with the computer, or setting off codes? Thanks Brian

Scott, How much to supply a useable drilled flywheel? Also this engine is tbi, I thought there was still a crank position sensor at the flywheel but I can't find anything. I assume the ecm is reading from the distributor. Any comments? Grossgary, I may look into that. Brian

If I understand this, I need to move the flywheel 12mm closer to the transmission. I can cut the bellhousing, or move the flywheel out the same distance, therefore accomplishing the same thing. Now can I "slot" the holes in the impreza flywheel the way the ea82 flywheel is slotted for ej engines and bolt that to the ea82 crank. If I can, then I will have no issues with the interface of starter and throwout bearing. Brian

How bout this. Stock flywheel in approx. 15mm thick at the mounting flange. Get another and cut the center section out, use this as a shim between the flywheel and crank, use a old throwout bearing as a locater between the shim and flywheel. if 15mm is too much than a 3mm aluminum shim can be cut to go betwen tne engine and intermediate bell housing. This should put the flywheel in the proper location. Now, will the newer starter interface with the flywheel, ie. same diameter, same tooth count? Any idea about what throwout bearing would work? Brian

Hypothetically, if I can manage the 12mm issue would there be other issues with flywheel starter interface and throwout bearing pressure plate interface. Brian

not possible at all? Brian

I know I will catch hell for this. Have the engine, tranny is the only style that will work with the project I'm doing. I figure I'll need the adapter, not sure what else. any help would be great. Thanks Brian