Responsible Jon

I got an 88 GL10 Turbo wagon with 5mt and locking center differential. Using the information on gears found here, calculated my stock gearing and the gearing for this 5 speed. .871*3.7= 3.2227 -Turbo gearing .855*3.9=3.4515 -stock 82 gearing So putting this transmission into my 82 Brat would decrease my RPMs to go the same speed in top gear, correct? I know it the turbo has 25 spline stubs, can the shafts be swapped out to the 23 spline stubs from my 4 speed?

My current truck is a 1982 Brat with EA81 and 4 speed D/R. I want a more modern power plant in my Brat, so I've decided to do an EJ swap. Fuel economy and power are about equal in my mind, I'm not trying to get crazy on power. I don't off-road the truck, so I don't need 4wd lo, but I wouldn't mind keeping a D/R transmission if it were a reasonable option. Since I'm in the midwest, where older subarus are not plentiful, it seems like a full modern drivetrain is the way to go, a 1.8 or a 2.2 ej with the manual transmission and AWD. Here are my questions! I've done some research, but haven't found a clear answer yet, thanks for your help. What parts are in involved in converting to AWD from my current setup? Would I need to swap my rear axle, and how involved is that? What is the gear ratio on my Brat? I remember reading the 82 had a lower ratio than most. What year and model would make a good donor car? I'm willing to spend about $2500 total on this conversion, is this a reasonable budget? Thanks for your help. I have a good space to work, plenty of tools and fab skills, so I don't think any of the swap is beyond my abilities, but I'm trying to draw from the vast subaru knowledge base here! Thanks again!

When I put on the lights in my 82 Brat the gas gauge rises, so does my temp and voltage gauges. Oil pressure seems unaffected. When I put the blinker on, the voltage gauge clicks up and down slightly with pulsing of the blinker. Same thing happens if I turn on the fan for the heater, the temp gauge rises and etc. I'm curious if this effects when the electric fan comes on to cool the radiator, but I'm not sure. Suggestions on how to fix this problem would be appreciated. I don't need perfect gauges, but I want them to at least be consistent.

I'm lucky that my Brat runs real well right now so I can take some time to think about future upgrades. I have an 82 with the Carter/Webber 1bbl, and if the search button doesn't lie, it means I would have to swap to an EA82 or 81 Hitatchi manifold to swap in the good Webber carb. Which means pay some money for that +$300 for the Webber. It looks like it might be cheaper to swap to SPFI judging by old buy/sell posts. Any drawbacks to SPFI? I do like carbureted engines quite a bit, but a few more HP would be nice.

Those are the correct ones!

Interestingly enough, the gas light in my 82 Brat works correctly, even if the gas gauge is showing a false high reading because of my headlights and fan being on.

Look at this beautiful hatch staying put where it belongs. :banana:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2ea-Gas-Strut-Spring-lift-24lb-14in-Rep-SUSPA-C16-06389-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem336561eaa9QQitemZ220744247977QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I had to get the "eyelet" style ends that this seller has to make the struts fit my topper.

Installed my new struts today. Fully extended … 14 inches … Fully retracted … 8 1/2 inches (center to center of the eye socket) Diameter rod = 6mm / tube = 15mm 24 pound force at rest (full extension). Got them on Ebay, and they work great. They actually help the snugtop to close easier, because once you get it almost closed, the start to pull it shut and that lets the cams lock in to place easily. If only I needed in there more often!

Me too!

I'll measure it tomorrow. Most of what I was interested in was the "weight" of the struts. Just curious how much is needed to push that back window up without making it real difficult to close.

When I got my Brat, the Snugtop camper shell didn't have any gas struts in it. There are little brackets for them, but the struts are missing. Anyone else with the snugtop know what length eye to eye and weight of struts I need?

I towed my brat from Seattle to Indiana with a tow bar. Flat tow, 2wd in neutral with the key in the ignition so the steering is unlocked, just like Miles suggested. Towed real nice, could hardly tell it was there.

If I was going to do an EJ swap, what would be a good year of donor car to look for? 1.8 or 2.2, although I suppose I'd rather have the larger displacement.

It only takes 78 1/8th wrench turns to remove the bolt. a little at a time.

My stock 1bbl carter/webber is loose on the plate that attaches to the intake manifold. I am attempting to remove the plate with the carb attached, so I can install a new gasket and tighten it all back down, but I'm having lots of trouble remove what I believe is the second bolt holding the spacer plate to the intake manifold. The first one was easy, facing up and between the carb and the firewall, the second one is between the carb and the radiator, and is upside down and under a bunch of junk. Am I insane? Is this the second bolt holding this stupid thing together? I can't seem to turn it out!

I've got an oil leak that just developed in the Brat. I can't identify easily where it is coming from, but it appears to get onto a pulley or something spinning, because it makes this wonderful line across the inside of my hood. Any suggestions as to what might be leaking?

Replaced the factory speaker in the Brat. Installed the tailgate trim with new clips.

Pull the 4wd lever another click back. = 4 lo

I went out for donuts this morning. Snow donuts and the real kind. It was much fun, just had to let that little Brat get warmed up, and then it ran like a champ. I should get myself a set of winter wheels and tires! Maybe 14" wheels to get me a bit more snow clearance! :banana:

Just got a new right tail light lens installed, hit up the junkyard and got a new ignition switch to go along with my new lock tumbler, now I don't have to use the screw driver any more! It feels so nice to have all the panels back in place!

How about with a ruler then? Tape measure? Cut a piece of string the same length then mail it to me?

Nomad, would you mind measuring the piston boot and seal ring with a caliper for me? I think my rear calipers are an odd size, as the part they sent me is the correct number but too large. Curious what size your boots are.

@GD, yeah, the HF auto drain works by splicing into the pressure line that turns off the breaker points. When the pressure in that line gets to great, the tubing would burst. At first I thought it just couldn't handle the pressure of my big compressor, about 150psi, but then I tried to install another one on my friends compressor that maxed psi at 125, and it burst too, but the tubing was a bit warm real close to the discharge on that machine. Just replace the tubing I'll wager it would work, just dont' expect it out of the box.

Super jealous, excellent van. I love two stroke motors!