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desertsubaru

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Everything posted by desertsubaru

  1. Better off selling that car and buying one with a turbo. The time and money to convert would be outrageous.
  2. The most important part is to make sure the converter is seated on the trans shaft correctly. Never hurts to have things aligned properly.
  3. On my old GL wagon that had a split boot I repacked it a little then took a piece of heavy plastic then zip tied it on to keep grease from flying all over. Drove from AZ to PA like that then put 10k more on it before I changed it.
  4. Take the vacuum hose off of the brake booster and look for fluid. There have been cases where the seals in the master cylinder are going bad leaking brake fluid into the intake and then burning off in combustion.
  5. Which engine? IMO opinion since the engines in subes are so easy to pull then pull it to do a complete gasket reseal.
  6. Problem could be Weak fuel pump, bad fuel pressure regulator, bad check valve on fuel pump or leaking injector allowing pressure to bleed off.
  7. Just replaced rear wheel bearing on Forester. Took 5 hours to get the axle out with heat/PB blaster and a big puller/BFH. A 20 ton press wouldn't budge it.
  8. What a shame that Subaru has gone so far down hill from 20 years ago. It would be interesting to see what country they were built in because it seems like the cars built here in the states have bad quality control. Quick google search shows the cars in question were built in the USA. http://www.stanleysubaru.com/blog/2013/may/8/where-are-subarus-built-where-is-the-subaru-impreza-built.htm
  9. What about a low pressure fuel pump connected to a trans cooler line to circulate the fluid through the trans. I have no idea if it would work, just shooting out an Idea.
  10. Went out today and battery was dead. Must of drained because of volt reg being bad. No other drains were detected. Going to bolt alt I have on when weather clears.
  11. I have a Gauge and a light. Gauge goes all the way up then light comes on. Also checked with voltmeter and there is an over charge to about 18 volts. When it first happened after fixing hose the gauge stayed pegged on high with light on. Then I drove it home and let it sit for about an hour. I then went back out to start it to move it out of my way. When it started and idled normal gauge was normal and light was out but after revving to above 1500 rpms the gauge shot up and light comes on, when rpms drop it is normal. I am not driving car now and will let sit for a few days to see if it drys up, If not I have another alt I can put on it.
  12. Was cruising along in my 2003 Forester when my top rad hose blow spewing coolant all over the place soaking the Alternator. now at an idle the gauge reads normal and battery light is not lit. At higher revs gauge goes all the way up and light comes on but then drops when rpms drop. So what is you guys and gals opinion on this? Did it just get the internal regulator wet and shorting it out which will cure itself when dry or am i going to have to get a new alt?
  13. If you have access to a wooded area cut three hardwood trees 3 inches around and 12 feet long to make a tripod then get a 1/2 or 1 ton chain hoist. Tie the three together with a good strap then put two legs of the tripod on the fender sides of the car and one in front. You only need to lift the engine a few inches and slide it forward about 5 inches to get to the clutch. Take the radiator out first to give the engine more room to go forward. Also unbolt the exhaust from the heads.
  14. When you say you disconnected the fuel line at the filter was it the line going into the filter or the one coming out. Could just be a really clogged filter.
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