desertsubaru

Its not hard at all. Just take your time,read through that right up on the basic swap and worry about pcv and stuff like that later. Here is the air filter assembly to use if you go with the Datsun adapter. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Chrome-Air-FIlter-DGV-DGEV-Weber-Carbs-1-75-Tall-/130573053309?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e66c2ad7d Use a piece if window screen to go over the Water hole on the intake under the carb and put some JB weld over it and let sit overnight before you put the adapter on. Make sure to smooth it out as best as you can so you don't get any unevenness under the adapter. Of course make sure the intake is clean of any old gasket material. After its on follow these instructions to tune it. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

May I suggest you do the EJ22 swap. There are much more after market parts for them then the EA engines.

Not to bad on the price. You can get a new one on Ebay for $199. This adapter is better then the two piece redline adapter but then you cant use the tall air filter. http://www.tdperformance.com/site/?d=108&dt=108&Keyword=2107

I read it and it is a very informative right up. Just wish I would have read it before I bought the two piece adapter. I'm going to order that other adapter. I have to take the carb back off to put a manual choke on anyway so I might as well put a better adapter on while I'm at it. Thanks for that great right up.

New ones at Autozone. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/1986-Subaru-GL/Fuel-Pump/_/N-ije30Z8vcz2

You looking for new or used?

Just put the Weber on I have had for a while, I traded a guy 100 rounds of 7.62x39 ammo or about $30 bucks. He had it on a BMW 2002. The jets are very close but I'm going to need the jet that controls Idle air circuit because I have to have the mix screw out 2 1/4 turns to get a smooth idle. Took a total of 3 hours including road time to test it. What an improvement even on an automatic car.

Carburetor or fuel injected?

Whats the difference between auto and manual?

Yes you have to burp it. I park mine with the front end up hill with the heat on, fill the radiator all the way, push front end of car up and down a few times to help get the air out and run it for a while with the cap on and reservoir filled to the full line. keeping your eye on the temp gage. Let it cool a little then run it on level ground with the cap off so you can see the fluid.You will see the air bubbles coming to the top. Have a catch basin under the car when you do that. I'm going to be working on a mod to either put an air bleed valve on either the goose neck or on the highest point of the radiator.

Search for spfi swap in the search window. Tons of info including complete right ups on the swap.

You would need the intake from an EA82 to switch to the Hitachi. Better upgrade would be to a weber. You can either get the adapter for the EA81 intake or switch to the EA82 intake and get the weber adapter for that. The adapters are different. I have an an EA81 weber adapter if your untested. was only used once. Or you can do the spfi swap.

First try a BFH, If that dont do it heat it and then hit it with a BFH.

Thats why we are all here, to help others learn about these wonderful cars. You can also do a manual choke if you don't want to dent your tank in.

The choke hits the power steering pump tank. The mod is to take a ball peen hammer and dent the tank in just enough to let the choke miss the tank. This causes no harm to the power steering pump at all. Here is a post that explains it better. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66363&highlight=weber%2C+power+steering

So you want a Medal or what. Just kidding.

Its not the pcv valve, I put a spare in I had. Its loosing fuel into the carb but its not because of the pump. I'm done with this Hicrappy, Next nice day I'm putting the weber on. Would still be nice to know why when you hit bumps with these carbs they do this. Guess after I take it off I will look at the internals to see If I can find the cause.

PCV is a thought but I have run my 86 with just the hose sticking on the PCV and hooked to nothing and it ran fine. I will check it though. This seems like a lack of fuel at higher RPMs and while in drive.

1985 Gl 2wd wagon Hitachi carb. New fuel filter. I hit a bump today doing about 20 mph. The engine started bogging down and I barely made it home. I checked for loose broken vac hoses and found none. Ran some sea foam into the gas line feed on the carb, it seamed to help but when i went to go out my drive way i hit a bump and it bogged again and now wont run except for if I keep my foot on the gas. Checked pump pressure and its fine. Checked all wire connections and grounds and they all check good. I'm thinking dirt in the needle valve. Any thoughts from you experts? :-\

Different size tires on back will cause torque bind while in four wheel dive but it wont cause an engine knock. Low oil and over heating will cause the crank bearings to loose lubrication burning them up and make the knock.

I have removed feedback carbs and replaced with a weber and the fuel pump was never affected. Are you sure its the fuel pump not running? If all else fails mount a toggle switch on your kick panel under your dash from battery power to the fuel pump.

If you have big hands and arms take the radiator out for more clearance to the timing belts.

Very possible. The 85 GL I just got had the belts replaced a week before the Idler gear pulley went bad and snapped a new belt.

No smog so the cats not needed.

When I put my weber on where should I hook the transmission vacuum line to? I'm going to remove all the vacuum lines except Disty, heater and brake booster. Is the vacuum to the trans a constant from the manifold vac? Any advantages or disadvantages to using an exhaust like this.