desertsubaru

Just looked and seen that it has an O2 sensor and craptachi feedback carb. Definitely going with the weber i have. Any Advantages or disadvantages with using the exhaust in these pics?

Had her out for her first highway run today. Hit 70 very well. ECS light came on. What is the ecs light for?

Two people wrenching should be able to pull that engine in less then an hour. Since the car is going for scrap after take what good parts off the front end,(Grill, Headlights, radiator and such) then cut the rad support on the top at both ends. This gives you a little more room to work and makes it so you can lift the engine with two people, each one of you on a head then lift and wiggle. Thats if you dont have access to an engine lift or hoist.

The car in my Avatar I put a FI block with a weber and free flow exhaust. Everyday I had to go up a hill that was about 2 miles at 8% grade. Normal days I would hit it in 4th gear at 4500 rpms all the way to the top doing about 65. On days I was feeling frisky I would go down to 3rd gear and stomp it until the valves would float 7000 rpms. These engines may be low power but they can take a lot of abuse.

Put the new idler pulley and Tbelt on, bolted it all back together and she started right up. Had a little trouble with some broken vacuum lines and burping the cooling system. The alternator is making a rumbling so I think the bearings are going bad. I have a used one to put on for now. It has good power for an auto. Still plan on putting a nice Weber on it I have.

Towed it from the Virginia/Maryland/West Virgina border (six hours:eek: ) with my 2002 Dodge 1500 van (5.2 Magnum) on a dolly. After she got rolling I didn'tt even feel it behind me. Got slowed down in the Maryland pan handle because of snow(45) until I hit Morgantown WV then it was just raining a little so i was able to hit 70 mph down I79 for the next two hours.

Got her home tonight. The Mech that worked on it took the drivers side Tbelt cover off and the broken stripped tooth belt was on the battery tray. I looked down at the Tbelt Idler gear to see a bunch of burnt rubber on it. Tried to turn the idler gear and its locked up tight. Will replace it with a used one tomorrow and a new one ASAP. This car has had $1000 dollars of work in the past month including new OEM axles, new front tires, Engine reseal, custom exhaust from the heads back to the free flow muffler with new after market cat, Brake pads/ shoes, water pump, vbelts and starter. Will have her rocking tomorrow.

+1. I do mine every tune up.

You can make a bracket to eliminate the ac. I may have an idler pulley, I will look for it tomorrow.

Did you get this figured out yet Padawan?

Thermostat and gasket, the intake gaskets, and the PCV valve should come from the dealer.

Did you spray all the Vac lines. I had one that had a split in it and it wouldn't leak until warm. Also if you can follow the vac line from the carb to the Distributer. Take that vac line off the carb and suck through it. If it sucks air easy then you may have a bad diaphragm in the Disty. Also do that to the EGR valve vac line. Take the air cleaner off and spray carb cleaner around the accelerator pump on the carb as they leak sometimes to. Are you sure the cable is not binding? Take it off the carb, hold it tight in your hand and have someone push the gas pedal slow to see if you can feel any binding.

Pics of the car.

Was it bad bushings around the carb shaft? I fixed mine with an O ring that Wont deteriorate with gas. I took the throttle lever off the carb and put it on the shaft where it meets the carb. That is just a temp fix though.

How many miles on the engine? What engine? Sounds like there is either a vacuum leak in a hose or around the carburetor. Or could be the throttle shaft has worn bushings not only making a vacuum leak but also binding up the shaft at a certain point . Spray some carb cleaner around the intake near base of the carb while the engine is running, on the vacuum hoses and where the intake bolts on the heads. If you hear the engine die out while spraying then you have a vacuum leak. Do it systematically. Spray the carb base first then the hoses and finish up at the intake on the heads.

He said the Disty does not turn at all. Only thing replaced was tbelts. Lets just say it is only the screw that fell out. It would still get spark from the coil wire though wouldn't it? New Coil was put on after the car quit running by my Brother because he thought it went bad. This was before they took the disty cap off and noticed the rotor was not turning.

I had an 86 that the cam bearing seized up and stripped a belt. It made one heck of a squeal right before it seized. I didn't even think about the oil pump. I just cleaned my shed out and threw a bunch of parts into a car I junked, One of those parts was an oil pump. Knowing my luck it will be the pump. New ones are $136.

Will the coil keep firing if the disty don't turn? usually when something snaps it makes a loud snap. I plan on checking it out next week. The body on this car is so nice it would be worth an engine swap even though it is an auto 2wd.

My uncle has an 85 Ea82 2wd wagon with 207k on it.( I would have done it but I live 5 hours away) He had the Tbelts replaced by a mechanic that has never worked on a Subaru about two months ago. My uncle said it just shut off with no noise at all About a week ago it quit running, he said it just quit on him. He said the Tensioners were not replaced. He took it back to the guy and he told him it snapped a crank or cam after pulling the distributor cap and seeing the disty did not move on cranking and only sparked at the coil wire when he first turns the key on. but not when turning the starter to turn the engine over( My understanding about these cars is the coil wont keep sparking if the disty don't turn.) He wants to charge another $600 to fix it. I told my uncle it was probably a tensioner or idler pulley and should not cost that much to fix. My uncle told me I can have the car if I come and get it. Body is in very good condition. I plan on taking three other distys,timing belts,tensioners idler gear and cam tower with cam for the drivers side. My question is what else could it be if its not tbelt related? Pin on disty gear maybe?

I'm picking up a 91 loyale wagon 4x4 with a Auto trans for my wife that cant drive stick. Is that all time AWD or is there a on/off for it.

It will probably be cheaper and you would be better off getting a Weber DGV 32/36 and adapter plate.

Hose clamps although more expensive then zip ties work well to.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50768&highlight=timing+belt

You do not need to take the strut out of the knuckle. Take the bolts out of the control arm where it bolts to the frame. I take of the sway bar bolt to. Loosen but do not remove the strut tower nuts under the hood. Put a good piece of wood against the axle and hit it with a hammer. Then you can pull out on the knuckle assembly to pull the axle out of it. You do not need to take the control arm off the lower ball joint if you do it the way I described.

If you have a local U pull junkyard why not go with an spfi swap. Its not that hard to do. Next month I'm getting all the parts for the spfi swap from a board member when I buy the engine from him. I'm going to a weber because I got the carb and adapter cheap. Maybe we can work out some kind of deal on the spfi intake, wire harness,distributer and fuel pump I'm getting. Then all you need to do is get a hole drilled to have a threaded bung put in the Exhaust before the cat to put the o2 sensor in. PM me if you like.