desertsubaru

Thanks Miles. I checked that thread out. You sir are a genius!

Miles do you mean where the front frame Ts off to the jacking points. If So How did you fix it?

No the EA82 is not an interference engine. IMO 120 on one cylinder should still let it run fine but let the experts chime in and let you know for sure.

Thanks Gary. I will just get new HGs,Cam tower O rings because they are not OEM with the metal ring and intake gaskets then. The rest of the gaskets are good to go IMO. Any good source for the Cam tower Orings?

I bought another parts wagon that has a running engine except for when I opened the passenger side valve cover the cam followers on the intake valves fell out because the HLAs are froze. Since the engine I got from the donor car has 200k on it I figured why I have it out I would change the heads form the one that was just redone with the ones that had froze HLAs. I ask the guy that did the head gaskets on the seized engine what torque specs he used. He said he used these steps, step one to 22ft-lbs step two to 43ft-lbs, step three to 47ft-lbs I read this from Gloyale, Most board members here I believe run a higher final torque. Like 55 to 60 at least. Carefully though, don't want to strip threads. So my thinking is if the guy that resealed the engine only went to 47ft-lbs and I go to 55 or 60 They should seal. I guess the only way to find out is to do it.

I bought this 86 wagon with the engine seized at the crank bearings do to lack of oil.(thats the bad) The good part is it has a great body and the engine was just resealed, Including new Micky mouse gasket,valve seals,cam tower o rings and new Felpro permatorque Head gaskets. This was all done about 1000 miles before it seized. My question is would the head gaskets be reusable? They are in great shape I can even read the Felpro logo on them.

Problem solved. I'm picking up a complete EA82 4x4 wagon that is rusty but runs and has all the parts for the D/R 5 speed swap.

I put PB blaster down the plug holes and had a 2 foot breaker bar with a 2 foot pipe on it. wont budge. Guess i will try the tranny fluid down the cylinder trick to See if that loosens it.

I'm pulling the Engine in the 86 wagon I bought , Everything is going smooth except the engine is locked up tight due to the last owner not putting oil in it. I need to be able to turn the flex plate to get at the Torque converter bolts. Any suggestions.

I know this has been asked before and I did search but cant find the info I need. Are the rear diffs in the 4x4 carbed Autos the same gear ratio as the 5 speed duel range cars.

Translation for us Gringos How sad friend, hopefully your uncle is fine, could have been worse. I hope you can see your car early to assess whether it is repairable, but with all the effort and time put into it, I think it will be easy to do, so cheer up! Mis sentimientos exactamente Loyale 2.7 Turbo.

I figured it out. There is no charcoal canister on the car the lines that are suppose to goto it are looped and not clamped and loose. So a trip to the Upull and a canister will solve the smell I hope. Would that make the car get bad gas mileage?

Raw

My 96 OBW with a 2.2 in it has a gas smell on the right side of the engine when I start it. There are no Leaks and it goes away after its warm. Any Ideas.:-\

I was looking on Ebay and the EJ 2.2 is cheaper then the 2.5. The one I was looking at has the same plug as mine for $21 plus shipping so I will go with that one. Thanks guys:banana:

I have a 96 OBW with a 94 Legacy 2.2 engine and a 95 legacy wire harness. Which knock sensor should I use?

Same thing happened in My 86 when the alt went.

Welcome fellow PA member. Im not to far from you I live near Hazleton PA. If you need parts Harry's U pull in Hazleton usually has a good selection of EA cars. If you ever plan on coming down to Harrys send me a PM or Email me at simplystuffy@msn.com and I can meet you there if you need any help.

In 2004 when I got back to PA from AZ we got two feet of snow. The one road I had to go up was only plowed once when I got off of work so there was at least a foot of snow on it. I had a 20 mile drive from work to home. My 86 wagon had rain tires on it and I was passing Jeeps because they where unstable on the road. The low center of gravity really helps these cars go through snow.

I will get it tested this week to see what codes are coming up now then will report back to you.

The car in my avatar is the one. Old subes had distributors that if they got wet it might either kill the car or give it a bad miss until you would dry it out. Your year has a coil pack that sits on top of the engine that is controlled by the ECU under your dash so it would take a lot of water to get to that. Just check your car yourself, A dealer will charge an arm and a leg to do it. Subes are great cars to learn on.

I wouldn't worry about 5 inches of water, That wouldn't even reach your oil pan. I had an 86 wagon that I use to cross a low water crossing with everyday twice. The water would be anywhere from 6 inches to over a foot and it never missed a beat.

When I had it tested the codes came up for rear o2 sensor,EGR and Knock sensor I replaced with one I had. Would the temp sensor show in codes? The block didn't have the place to screw the egr pipe into so I just removed the egr and put a plate over it.

Yes I put the O2 sensor in the Bunghole I had welded in place. The original cat not only rusted out but was bad to. Trust me If I could get the money up to have one welded in I would but I have been out of work for a while living on employment insurance. I only use the car to goto the store and back, about a 20 mile round trip so I only fill up about once a month. I have an OEM o2 sensor on the way from a board member because mine tested bad. I need to know though if the o2 sensor operates at a certain temp to work properly. I know with out the cat that it will be a lot cooler and have read that other brands of cars need it to be very hot. I have some heater resistors from a project car I had years ago I never used that are made to fool the ecu into detecting the o2 sensor is hot enough but don't know which wire is the heater wire on the 96 OB rear sensor if it has a heater wire that is. It has new plugs,wires, and air filter. The old plugs were the proper color they should be but the inside of my tail pipe is black. This car was an original 2.5 that I swapped a 2.2 from a 95 into that only has about 80 k on it. It idles fine and runs fine at acceleration and at speed but sucks gas.

Over the winter My rear cat converter rusted off, Being out of work I couldn't afford to get one welded back in. A buddy of mine did weld a piece of pipe with the bunghole for the 02 sensor. My question is will the rear 02 sensor work right without the cat to heat it up? I plan on getting a cat as soon as I get some money but for now my gas mileage is horrible, maybe 12 MPG on the highway. If I wanted to add a heater resistor until I can get a cat which color wire would be the heater wire?