desertsubaru

AS the little old man in the boat that checked the oil in the tanker in water world said when the flare came down at him. " Oh thank goodness"

I vote for air bubbles. After I did my engine swap mine did the same thing until all the air was out.

Great fix! I had an 82 Subaru GL and the fuel pump quit 30 miles from home with no way to contact anyone. I used the windshield washer pump, some wire and a piece of fuel line from the trunk and rigged it to the fuel line and carb. To fill the carb you hit the button for the washer pump. It worked great, every few seconds you would have to hit the button but not only did I get home I ran it like that for a week until I could get a fuel pump.

My 96 obw auto does the same thing. Its like it gets confused of what gear it should be in. No slippage or anything like that just strange shift times and not a good kick down for getting on the highway. It was just checked,drained, flushed and refilled. I thought it was maybe because of a 2.2 in place of the 2.5, but since you had the same thing with a new car it just might be that since I was use to driving a 5 speed and then going to auto im not use to it yet.

Or you can use a 90 to 96 2.2 and put a 95 intake and 95 cam and crank sensors becuse they are different plugs.

I just swapped a 2.2 into my 96 obw with no problems. Out from the top is best way to pull it.

I got it working. It was the plug on the pipe up near the fire wall before it goes into the cab. It was loose and dirty. After using it on a 50 mile trip mostly up hill with the cruse on I will just roll my windows down because it sucked my gas.

96 obw, The 86 had to goto its final resting place Harrys upull in Hazleton. I'm not the average person I have been working on cars for 35 years now but I don't mess with A/C much. I have access to gages from a Friend that works at a shop. The gage shows the the right amount. Thanks for the link unibrook! It has no leaks we checked with the die you put in it. The line from the compresser to the cab does not get cold and the one from the condenser gets super hot.

My compresser turns on and works fine but for some reason its not blowing cold in the cab. What could be causing this.:-\ yes its got the right amount of 134a

The body shops use a fine rubbing compound and a rotary buffer and it does just as well.

Junk yards are giving $400 for subes, offer her that.

I was going to drill and tap the 2.2 head but forgot to do it and just put a pipe plug on the intake side of the egr. We dont have emissions so I just put up with the CEL being on.

I just did the same thing, took a 92 2.2 and a 95 intake from 2.2 and put it in my 96 obw. If you have a 98/99 you will need the duel port header/y pipe from a 96 or older. Mine does fine on power and about 25 mpg at 70 mph.

I seen a guy Junk a real nice geo metro that looked like it was new. It sounded good and moved under its own power and he junked it for $400:eek:

Cool another East Pennsylvania person, . My nephew has an 06 2.5 GT and he loves it.

What color should the front turn signals be on a 96 obw. Not the lense but the bulb its self. I just bought this car and the right one is orange and the left white.

Did the swap today and it went very well, hit the key and fired right up:banana: ! Now all i need to do is get an exhaust pipe welded that cracked and get her inspected and I'm good to go. Thanks everyone for the help.

I will buy that for a dollar!

NGK V power $209 a plug.

I lived in Sedona and theres not a sube dealer for 60 miles around but Autozone and Checkers could get me parts overnight.

Phoenix is full of junkyards though and you should have no problem finding parts at one of them. I think there is a JY in Phoenix that has nothing but subes. I drove my 86 wagon from AZ to PA with about 800 pounds of stuff in it and still got about 25 mpg.

I went with the 2.2 because my 2.5 already had HGs done twice in its 200k and I wouldnt trust it a third time, It still runs but heats up. Go 2.2 and work IT a little!

They said it ran but had a miss, I figured bad plug but seen when I got it home that the wires and plugs are brand new ngks. I think my tensioner piston is bad because it wont move in. I don't have a vice but I do have an 8 inch C clamp, will that push it back? Also how far should the tensioner piston come out when you remove the tensioner? Mine only came out about an inch and I was able to put it back on the block with the tensioner pulley in place, Should I be able to do that? Thanks for the help everyone!

OK good news! Someone replaced the timing belt and instead of lining the notches up they lined the arrows up for the marks. I am in the process of fixing it now. WOOHOOO a 71 k engine with new belt and tensioner! :banana:

I know a hand crank test isn't accurate but It was getting compression in 1&3 but zero in 4 and a little on 2. As I said I did a leak down test with 4 at tdc and it pushed the piston down enough to toss my ratchet off the crank. Doing a rudimentary leak down test I could hear a lot of air from intake and exhaust, when I crank it it got quieter but was still leaking a bit in 4&2. This engine did sit for a about 2 months. I have the intake off and just went with a light and looked at the intake valves and they look fine couldn't get under it to look at exhaust valves. I then took a little light saber thingy I have that is a light and put it in the spark plug hole and turned the engine until the valves closed and I could see no more light. When they were closed the crank timing mark is way past the timing scale on 4. Shouldn't 4 be on the 0 mark with the valves closed? I will take timing cover off tomorrow and see if it jumped. This engine is really clean inside with very little carbon build up in on the pistons and none on what I can see of the intake valve seats. The car looked like a little old lady drove it to work on Sundays it was that clean.