desertsubaru

I got my 95 2.2 engine with 71k on it from the junk yard today for $200 pulled. Tested compression at home by turning crank by hand. 1&3 went to 60 on first turn but 4 Had zero and 2 had 35. I then did a leak down test and could hear the intake and exhaust on 4 don't close and 2 closes but not all the way. So what could this be? Please say timing jumped or sticky valves! :-\

Thanks again. I found a 95 2.2 with 45k for $200. Just waiting for the junk yard to call to get it. So for $600 a got a 96 outback wagon with a little rust! YEA! One more question, for How many miles does the auto tranny usually go with regular service?

Thanks ! With your search advice I got the info i need but just want to make sure im correct on a few things. Ecu from 2.5 will plug and play as long as i have engine or intake from an 95 or 96 2.2? The y pipe on the 2.5 will work on a 2.2 as long as the 2.2 is duel port? Use flex plate and torque converter from 2.5? Thanks again for the new G help because I'm an old school sube guy and this is my first new G car. I will get pics later .

I just bought a 1996 outback wagon 2.5 DOHC auto with a bad HG and knock for $400, also has a couple of small rust holes. My question is can I swap a 2.2 into it and if so what years fit the tranny? I searched for an hour but found very little about it.:-\ http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/Easycz52/Picture009.jpg http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/Easycz52/Picture015.jpg http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/Easycz52/Picture018.jpg

I didnt see them he called and said they got a pug in but didnt say if they were steel or Alum. I went to get an Axle so didnt have time to look because it was getting late and I had like 1/2 an hour before closing. Do you remember If they are steel or Alum?

What time were you there? I was there right at closing and had a buddy of mine That works there grab them for me and put them away for me.

If you lived in PA you would have had that heat on all day.

I just use an impact gun and lots of PB to help lube and cool the bolt as it comes out.

One word. FUGLY!

Just get a reseal kit from the auto parts store,They come with all you need. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=FEL&MfrPartNumber=CS9390

Yes it can be done and there are a few threads on the subject. Pros, No timing belt to break. Cons, You will lose some power.

Thats great man! Now you will be ready for WSHTF!

I'm working on a mod for the air in the cooling system problem. Chevy cavaliers have a metal tube that has a air bleed in it and its the same size as the heater hoses of the EA82. I'm going to cut the metal tube off a JY car and then cut one of my heater hoses and clamp that section with the valve on my hose. I will have pics when its done.

Or the cable is to tight not letting the clutch ingage. How many miles on it? Any history from the seller?

Did you try to adjust the cable?

4.8 from lock to lock!

My 86 wagon has manual steering but I'm not sure if its variable gear ratio or not. How can you tell? I like it more then power because I can feel the road conditions better. At highway speeds its very good at dodging our PA potholes. Even turning it sitting still isn't to bad.

I sent you a PM.

I have had a reman on for about 20k now that clicked from the day I put it in. Im just changing it now because it is loose when you grab the axle and pull on it.

Are they six lug?

Go to Harrys in Hazleton. Check the GM section because Im sure I seen a nice set of four tires that size on a Lumina or something like that.

I'm lucky because my local Auto zone has ASE managers behind the desk. I payed $14 for a radiator cap at NAPA and Auto zone had the same brand for $8. Next time I need one I will just grab it from Harry's u pull in Hazleton. They always have a nice selection of EA 82s and EJs there. I couldn't be happier with the 58 k engine I got and I just Installed the like new two front mechanical Adjustable struts and the two rear yesterday. So thats what a smooth ride feels like. I have the front up 1 inch and the rear up on the second notch and it sits higher then when I had the old adjustables up all the way. I guess my springs were really shot. I can never find good axles at Harry's, the boots are always ripped.

Since mine had a weber that went bad I allready had the adapter kit. As for the jetting I must have got lucky because with about 1/2 hour of air mixture screw adjusting and disty adjusting mine has ran fine on three different engines. Now that I have a 58k engine it runs way smoother then it ever has with a hicrappy. I did reverse the carb so the linkage worked right. As for the choke I put a $15 manual choke on it. I also use my stock fuel pump with no regulator and no return line. As GD said if you can afford the spfi swap thats the route to go. Heck at that price $80 I'm going to order a back up carb. I also put one on someone Else's sube and had the same results.

They are not as good as the real weber but as I said if you have a srtict budget (poor like me) they work fine, at least mine does.

Either way I know mine runs very well and I get good milage. Mine only has three vacuum lines, two small ones on the front, one of them I have to the disty and the other plugged. The third is a large one that most likley went to the brake booster. If you cant get the money up for a weber and you can fab a throttle cable mount they are worth the $80. I forgot to ad that I can climb a 6% grade that is five miles long at 70 mph at 3200 rpms and still have enough pedal left to get up to 80 mph to pass, so I would guess that is good torque.