
Wayback
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West Coast Subaru Show 16 Photo Thread
Wayback replied to Vegablade's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
http://www.electricsubaru.com/ -
I once forgot to release the fuel pressure before pulling an injector, and didn't notice fuel was running down the hole until the area below filled up and fuel started spilling out of the hole. I think I got lucky and the intake valves were closed, so I was able to stick a tube down there and suck out most of the gas. Sounds like this might be what happened to you, except the intake valves were open and the gas ran down into the cylinder.
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You should NEVER disconnect the battery while the engine is running. It can dump a massive voltage surge into your electrical system. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_dump
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- power loss
- check engine
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(and 2 more)
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EA82 Fan Power Selector Fix
Wayback replied to ystrdyisgone's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You can still get a new blower resistor pack, costs about $40, part# 72083GA070 -
The compressor in that pic is not original equipment. No 90's Legacy A/C compressor had more than one connector (or any connector that looked like those), or a "revolution sensor". The single wire is for the magnet clutch. The part with 2 wires is a thermal protection switch. 96-98 had them. If the switch is open and the compressor is not pretty hot, the switch is faulty. Just connect the two wires together and bypass the switch.
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ECU still thinks its an automatic (5MT swap)
Wayback replied to Ibreakstuff's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
For an AT SPFI, ECU pin 32 is grounded. To make it an MT, you need to cut that wire. It's a black/red on the largest of the 3 ECU connectors, second from one end between a brown and a light green. -
The fans are two speed. Both fans turn together, at the same speed, low or high. If one fan is turning and one isn't, something is wrong with the one that isn't turning, or the circuit controlling it. Note that there are two circuits for each fan. Each fan has 3 or 4 wires, one or two ground and two power. If one circuit is energized, that's low speed, both energized, high speed.
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Does this require fab work on the transmission mounts and/or crossmember? Or a modified drive line?
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Most people who have done the EJ swap are using their original EA pressure plate, it seems to work fine. Has for me, I've never noticed any hint of slippage. And I doubt it's even possible to buy an actual XT6 pressure plate anymore. The extra power is great, but it's not going to blow you away. Alot less downshifting on hills, and alot more ability to pass. And yeah, you might be able to out-drag some dork in their fart-canned Civic if you want to. But it's still pretty much the same car. Only better. As far as "all that torque", a 1st gen EJ22 had 137 ft-lbs when it was brand new, by now it's probably barely more than a Corolla. True, the gearing is pretty low, but if you could start uphill without wheel spin before, you'll probably still be able to.
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1988 DL/GL FSM Wiring Diagram Needed
Wayback replied to drugh's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
You can get a partial 1989 EA82 FSM from numbchux's website http://www.numbchuxconversions.com. Engine wiring diagrams are in SubaruEA82-ServiceManualPart2.pdf. -
I got an EA82 dealer-installed cruise control to function with my EJ-swapped 1992 Loyale using the tach output from the ECU, no diodes required. I didn't have the EA82 accelerator pedal vacuum actuator, so I used an EJ actuator. The throttle response tuning was all wrong, it would constantly accelerate and decelerate, not usable. So I got a cruise computer and vacuum pump from a 1st gen Legacy, spent a few evenings figuring out the wiring, and now it works very well.