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So my legacy has a duel fuel pump. Any body want to lay down some advice in replacing those bad boys? I think it is going to come down to that. I can't find anywhere in my area that rents out fuel pressure gauges. so I'm either going to make shift something before and after the filter or I'm going to just replace them and see what happends. Since no one here had good things to say about the Hanes auto books, I would love some advice. thanks guys

checked the intake manifold gasket again, it looks and sounds good. I went to check the volts going to the MAF but as soon as I pulled off the connector, the engine started sputtering and got ready to die. that tells me that the MAF is getting power. The wire harness going to the MAF is a three prong plug. Tested that for volts and got just about 12. ok so while I was looking I found a T connector that joins three vacuum hoses. problem is that one of the vacuum hoses is missing. when i pulled the intake manifold off I labeled EVERYTHING. and anything that came out went right back in. plus there were not any lines that I had to take completely off. I was at least able to keep one side attached with each hose. so I have no idea if there was a missing hose there before I did my work. the hoses are directly under the right side of the intake manifold. If someone can explain to me how to attach pictures to this thread I will so you guys can see exactly what I am talking about.

I did make sure that all of the old gasket was gone. I used a straight edge to ensure that she was nice and smooth. and no i did not remove the throttle body from the manifold. I will take a listen tomorrow evening and let you know what I find. thanks.

lol dang knock sensor. I'm in training, so I did not see the sensor when looking for it. Manual told me to COMPLETELY removed the intake manifold (along with everything else that has to get moved out of the way) to get to the sensor. Come to find out that the single bolt holding the sensor down was just loose haha. I have checked for vacuum leaks and double checked all my electrical connections. What is best way to check for leaks? Typical, when ish hits the fan it really hits the fan. As soon as all this happened with my legacy my wife and I got into a serious financial situation. Now I am trying everything I can to narrow down the list before I spend the money. And wonderful New England winter is right around the corner.

Hey guys, sorry it has taken so long to get back to this thread. I was away on business. So here are all the codes I'm getting: P0303-cylinder 3 misfire p0106-Manifold absolute pressure/BARO sensor range/performance p0122-throttle/pedal position sensor A Circuit low input p0123-throttle/pedal position sensor A circuit high input p0264-cylinder 2 injector circuit low p0270-cylinder 4 injector circuit low p0301-cylinder 1 misfire detected p0302-cylinder 2 misfire detected p0102-mass or volume air flow circuit low input p0304-cylinder 4 misfire detected p0505-idle air control system So there is the list. lol. Again just to recap, all I have done is replaced the throttle position sensor. checked all spark plugs (all look great), Going to change out fuel filter and Mass air flow sensor. Car idles fine, but as soon as I touch the gas the engine boogs down. Money is short so I wanted to hear peoples opinions before I started going at every single code. Thanks for you help guys.

I do not have the codes in front of me. I'll post again when I do. I was checking the resistance when testing my coil pack and wires. I was using a Hanes manual and as per the specks listed for a coil pack, mine was a little out of parameters. The knock sensor on the 2.2L is under the intake manifold. The Hanes manual I was using instructed me to completely removed the entire intake manifold including the alternator and steering pump (without disconnecting the lines). Half way through I realized that I could have gotten to the knock sensor with an extension and a ratchet. To top it all off. the bolt that holds down the sensor was just loose, causing my knock sensor to throw a code and the car to sputter while driving and while coming out of first. haha. Whatever, live and learn. So it sounds like the first thing I should do is replace the fuel filter. I meant to do that while I had the engine apart for the knock sensor. So I'll give it a try. I'll post the codes my soob is throwing some time tomorrow. One more thing. Do you have any recommendations for online parts retailers that you trust for quick and quality parts? Thanks for all your help. Paul

Every one of my cylinders are misfireing. But this was happening when the car was running well. the only reason I even know about that is because the car is throwing codes. That is what prompted me to check the coil pack and wires. they are out of specs as per the Hanes manual i have but not by much. My check engine light was also throwing the TPS code. the spark plugs look great. the engine has about 70,000 miles on it. the car it self has well over 100,000. the only maintance I have done to the car in the past year (other than the normal oil change and breaks) was replace the nock sensor. I am sure you are all well aware of how anoying that damn thing is because of where it is located. But the car ran like a champ for about a day and a half after I had the engine backtogether.

Hey guys, I have a 1998 Legacy with a 2.2 4 cylinder, fuel injected manual. Recently, my engine has been bogging down as I pressed the gas pedal. I have to let go quickly to keep it from dying. The car idles fine. I just put a new throttle position sensor on it and the problem has continued. I believe the coil pack and wires are out of spec so I plan on replacing those but I would like to know if that could be the only problem. I have a buddy who mentioned possibly having a bad fuel rail. How do I check proper operations of the fuel rail? Thanks, Paul