avk

What is wrong with the pistons? Are they really the weakest component in the rotating assembly? Just asking.

I recall (perhaps incorrectly) that there is a different part number for the crank bolt with a higher torque setting.

It's 1993-96, if memory serves. There were some changes to the interior in 1997, before the bigger changes for 1998.

Come think of it, mine use to leak at the banjo connection for the pressure line to the cooler. The only tool that fits in there is a 19 mm offset box wrench.

This isn't a pressure leak, so hopefully there is a way to deal with it from the outside.

Yes, that one.

There's a newer version of this tool, LT-730, with a small tip on the end to fit snugly inside the pin and hold it.

I agree that this precaution is important when dealing with a rusted pin of unknown origin. My experience with OE stainless pins has been that they come out without a fight. Of course if the OP can wait for obtaining proper tools, they should order the axle pin remover, or at least a plain 7/32 punch (not available in hardware stores). I thought that on a 6 mm hole, a 7/32 drill was easier to use than a 3/16 punch (tried both).

7/32 drill bit inside a 1/4 socket on a suitable extension. What else would you need a 7/32 bit for, anyway? But the tool mentioned by the general is the best thing to have. I just used one for the first time.

I just tried the following and it worked. Disclaimer: The procedure, as tested, applies to axles that are held with a roll pin to the differential output stub shaft. I don't know if there will be sufficient room to perform it with pin-less axles, but there's always hope. Axle removal procedure: Wheels pointing straight, front end lifted and safely supported, axle nut & roll pin removed. Disconnect sway bar link from the control arm (12 mm head, M8 bolt and nut), and the control arm from the cross-member at the forward mount (17 mm head, M12). Under the hood: if working on the right side, disconnect air intake duct and move it out of the way so that there is a clear view of the inner CV joint (DOJ) housing. Disconnect PCV/vacuum hoses to move the duct, as needed. Stuff something into the throttle body. If working on the left side, you may need to move the washer bottle. My hands-on experience, as of this writing, is only with the RH axle. Hook one end of a bungee cord to the axle shaft near the DOJ, and the other end to a suitable hole in the hood reinforcement, somewhere near the top. The idea is to support the weight of the axle shaft after it is disconnected from the stub. Depending on the length and stiffness of the cords available to you, you may need to find a right combination by connecting them in sequence and/or in parallel. The key step: Pulling the knuckle outwards, slide the DOJ off the stub shaft and direct it upwards and to the rear, to the area where the front differential housing tapers down towards the transmission (MT or AT). The cord should be adjusted to hold the shaft in that position. This, together with the unbolted control arm, provides enough clearance to slide the other end of the axle out of the wheel hub. Done. Installation is reverse. As always, remember to load the suspension with the car's weight before fully torquing the control arm and the sway bar link.

AutoCheck gives a clean report for that VIN. Thee only records are two registration renewals in Halifax.

Not a guru, but I had to go twice through replacing the inner boot above the converter. The Subaru replacement boot and something inside the DOJ (inner race, if memory serves) are marked "NTN".

05/17/2007 ID State Agency RIGHT FRONT IMPACT WITH ANOTHER VEHICLE (Case #:07C170038)

I did have to fix the window washer hose (even before I had to fix the wires). In my case, it was squished and hardened at the bend, blocking the flow. Fixed it by splicing in a new piece with two connectors. If you can't reach the broken end, you will need to remove the pillar trim. For repair, use a thick-walled vacuum hose.

Thanks for the review. They are a big seller on eBay.

I know this won't help, but anyway. After this code came up on my '95 Impreza, I bought a new front oxygen sensor. Then, when I situated myself underneath the car, I found the flexible joint after the converters to be rusted out and leaking. I fixed the joint and replaced the sensor, and the code did go away. I believe that the problem must still be somewhere in the feedback loop of the catalyst monitor. It might be using inputs from other sensors and there could be something wrong with one of them (w/o any extra codes). Reminds me of the posts about frustrating EGR codes where MAP sensor was found to be the culprit.

One possible answer is that the brake dust would cover everything inside one way or another.

To do an inner joint on the car, one can follow an old TSB and unbolt the control arm at the forward pivot, and the sway bar link from the arm. This will give enough swinging room to slide the joint housing off the stub shaft. The suspension bolts will have to be re-tightened at normal ride height.

I replaced a rusted-off converter flange with a hinged replacement, the better kind that is made of stacked plates. It is held by the remaining weld bead from the original flange. Since the hole spacing is different between the new flange and that on the intermediate pipe, had to use a pair of stainless J-bolts, combined with original springs.

One thing that might be different between Legacy and Impreza calipers is the diameter of the piston.

That's the one. Get "Professional Strength" if they have it.

It should dry inside the house if you have room. Hopefully the carpet isn't moldy. Lay it out with padding on the top and spray with Lysol, just in case.

You gotta pull the carpet, otherwise it will never dry. To fix it faster, you can remove the soaked jute padding and replace it with good quality 1/2" carpet pad. Should cost no more than $15. The ABS box should be under the passenger seat, underneath the carpet.

On newer model years, the canister is in the back for both 2.2 and 2.5. With canister in the rear, there are more possible evaporatiive emissions trouble codes (P044x) enabled than with the old type. But apparently, there is a way to make everything work.

If FWD MT existed, and I believe it was, there has to be a rear cover that would interchange with tail housing, just like on auto transmissions. But then you might have to remove the transfer gear from the output shaft if it's removable, or replace the shaft with FWD type, at which point it would be easier to simply swap the whole thing.