brendanr279

I have a brake job that's kicking my butt. Probably a simple solution but I'm just overlooking it. 92 Legacy L, 2WD, Manual. I replaced my rear pads recently, led to finding a stuck caliper. I replaced the calipers on the rear axle and bled the rear brake lines by gently pumping the brake (which I hear is not the best way to do it). If I press the brakes when the engine is off, the pedal is real stiff, where you'd want it. Once I turn the car on, the first time I press the pedal, it's all of a sudden goes from stiff to real soft. Now 3 weeks later I turned the car on and the pedal is even worse, going almost all the way to the floor. What's going on? Do I just need to re-bleed and tighten up fittings, maybe on all 4 wheels? Did I mess up my master cylinder and now its leaking fluid past the cylinder?

And, thanks for the advice and explanation. I'm looking into the FSM right now. I'm planning on taking back to the shop this coming week, hopefully things will get straightened out. Thanks again everyone.

It's a manual transmission. Should have definitely mentioned that, sorry.

Any other opinions from anyone, or at least a little more than "you got bad axles"?

I guess I should have never had the original axles replaced, but they never suggested "rebooting" this was the first time I had them replaced about 2 1/2 years ago. The most recent replacement, back in mid-November, I asked if they would hold on to the old axles for me so I could check them out. They told me they could but that there is a core/exchange charge for new ones and that I would have to spend $40 more per axle. I was suspicious of this and not happy, but I told them to go ahead and exchange them. One thing they told me about the knocking, which was very slight immediately after the replacement, was that something is occasionally slipping. Something where the axle meets the transmission. I've looked into and if I'm correct the axle has a spline receiver, and the transmission (??) has a spline which is driving the axle. Could this be what they are talking about slipping? If so, that sounds like something is either worn down, or is out of alignment and will soon be worn down. I know there is significant rust all under the front end around the wheels/hubs/etc. it had sit in a driveway, neglected for 8 years, before it was given to me. Could there be something out of whack? And really its an issue of the axle being pushed/seated more adequately into the spline? Does this make sence?

Hi, guys. I had my driveaxles replaced on my front wheel drive 92 legacy L (for the second time in 2+ years). It was making a knocking noise at times before the repair. It seems to be worse now than before. The guys at the shop told me the CV joints were shot and so that's why I had to get the repair done recently. This knocking has me worried though. It only is present if I give it a certain amount of gas. If I accelerate at a pretty slow rate, it doesn't knock, if I accelerate at any decent rate, like getting on a highway or starting at a stop light, it knocks until I get to the speed I want to go and then ease off. Any clue what's going on? The parts and labor are under a 2 year warrantee and I'd like to bring it back. I'd like to have some second opinions though before I do. On another note, I thought the repair guys just over squirt some grease whiledoing the repair, but right after they replaced the driveaxle assembly, I noticed grease had gotten thrown over some areas underneath the hood. I could smell it smoking on an exhaust heatshield. I figure they just used too much grease, but now I'm thinking maybe they screwed up and/or something loosened and it seeped out... if that makes sence or has any bearing on my knocking issue. FYI 2WD only, NO AWD. Thanks.

I'm no mechanic and I just replaced my brake pads and rotors. The hardest part was getting the rusted on tire off the hub, just took a couple good boots to the tire and it broke the seize. You can probably find the procedure in detail online or definitely in one of those repair books youcan buy at an autoparts store. It's real simple though. Jack the car up, remove tire, unscrew two bolts that hold on caliper making sure to support the caliper so it doesn;t bust the brake fluid lines while its hanging there, use two 8x1.25 bolts to pop the rotor off the hub, place new rotor on (doesn't require bolts, lug nutts hold in place once tire is on), pop out old brake pads from calipers and replace with new (I had to grind down the little nipple on the new ones a bit to get them to slide in easily), bolt the caliper back on, then tire. Should be good as new. You may need to use a clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Be sure to grease bolts, backs of brake pads, and anywhere there is metal to metal contact (NOT on the surface of brake pad or rotor!!), its recommended you grease the caliper spring-like bolts that allow the pads to recoil after braking or you may eventually get pads rubbing when not braking. Be sure to buy quality rotors. I bought cheapos from the part store and they warped after a little more than two years of driving (35K miles). It's pretty simple. Once you do one wheel the others will go much faster.

So i asked the seller the same question. He told me that if it has no airbag, it has no clockspring. Is this true? If so, then what's wrong with my horn. The horn works when jumped to the battery and I've replaced the relay... Well, there are a couple relays in the same area and I bought a new one, swapped it out with both of the relays and tried to honk the horn, neither time did the horn work, so I assume its not a relay problem.

I couldn't find the answer among old posts... I have a 92 legacy L wagon. My horn doesn't work and I've reduced the problem down to the clockspring. My question is: Will a clockspring listed by the seller as "airbag only!!!" work on my airbagless legacy? There was some debate in a previous thread about whether 92s came standard with airbag. This is beside the point since my 92 definitely does not have airbags. Thanks, guys.

Sorry to revisit an old topic, but no one ever answered his original question. Will a "clock spring for a Legacy with airbag" work for a Legacy without airbags. My horn doesn't work either, and luckily it slipped by last year's annual state inspection. I'm due for another one and would like to get the horn working beforehand, but all I can find is a clock spring that says its for use with a Legacy with "airbags only!!" Is this true? Or will it be compatible with a Legacy without airbags as well? I have a 92 Legacy without airbags.

Do you have another clock spring for sale?

Hey, man. I have a 92 legacy L and I can guarantee you It does not have an airbag. Anyway, I too am having a harm problem, doesn't work at all, though I haven't tried turning the wheel at the same time. Anyway, I have found relays under the driver side dash all the way to left. It's a real pain the rump roast to get to but its there. I've replaced the relay and no luck getting the horn to start. I jumped the horn to the battery and the horn physically works. I too have heard its the clock spring. Did you end up buying the clock spring? Did it solve your problem?

Hey guys. I've been having troubles with diagnosing why my horn doesn't work. So far I've hooked it straight to the battery and the horn works. I've replaced the relay under the driver side dash. I've checked the contacts right where you depress the horn on the steering wheel and they make contact. I don't know what's going on. I've heard before that it may be the "clock spring". I was wondering how I might diagnose this. Is it complicated? Are there any other symptoms of a faulty clock spring that might reinforce the suspicion? I just remembered. I had brought it to a dealership for a quote on a repair and mentioned the horn as well. They told me it was the relay, but I've just replaced it and its not helping. There were two relays of the same make underneath the dash. I replaced the one with a green plug, which I'm pretty sure is the horn. Didn't work, so I switched it to the other with a white plug, didn't work. I tried all the combinations I could. Unless both have to do with the horn (which i doubt is the case) and both the two relays are faulty then the relay should not be the problem. Thanks for your help. ps I don't have cruise control

Hey, guys. I have a problem with my idle. When I start the car (92 legacy L) the idle is high (1500) for five minutes or more. If I don't let the car warm up substantially, the idle stays high and the rpms hardly drop at all when I shift (it's a manual). I've had an old honda accord before that had an erratic idle upon start, I had to clean the "fast idle thermo valve". It just involved removing a spring loaded ball-thing with some plastic components from a cylinder housing and cleaning with brake parts cleaner. Is this something that I can do to my Legacy? Or what's going on here? Thanks

Hey, guys. 92 Legacy L 2.2L. So I had a squeal under my hood. I suspected a belt, probably power steering so I thought, no hurry if it goes I just won't have power steering and I'll fix it. Well it went tonight and when it did my dashboard "brake" light and "battery' light went on. I was thinking, oh ************, this is more than just a power steering belt. I luckily made it home right when the turn signals gave out and the lights were dimming. I assume the power steering and alternator are run on the same belt?? Can anyone provide some insight here? Any tips? Is it hard to replace? Thanks.

Yeah, I checked fuses. I was wondering about good connections at the terminal. The terminals have what I can only assume is anti-corrosion grease on them. They are smothered in a whitish brown grease. Both the horn and wiper pump terminals.

So I'm trying to figure this out still and I think I may have created another problem... Electrical issues aren't my specialty I guess. I bought a multimeter and probed the terminal of the wiper pump, pulled the wiper/washer switch and it read a fluctuating voltage of around 0.15 volts. I'm sure I have it set on the right range because the car battery was reading 12.10 or so. I doubt the 0.15V at the wiper pump wire terminal is sufficient power, correct? So does that mean I have a break in the wire somewhere, like Cougar suggested? Also, while screwing around with relays under the dash, I pulled out a relay that was for the radiator fan I guess. Now when the car is in accessory I hear some clicks every few seconds, definitely coming from the relay and also closer to the radiator fan. The radiator fan now continues to turn off and on in those few second bursts. Did I mess up the relay? When you pull or place a relay, does the car have to be off, no accessory or anything? I'm about to take it to a mechanic, but I'd rather not since I'm cheap and I like doing things myself, but like I said, I don't know much about electrical issues. I'm learning though!

Hi, guys. I have a 1992 Legacy, front wheel drive only. It has recently started to get a rhythmic, fast "duh duh duh duh duh duh" (if you can imagine that) when the car gets to about 40mph and above. It's coming from the the front passenger side and it stops when I take my foot off the gas pedal. It makes the car shake very very little, if at all, but the sound its making is very apparent. I had new tires put on a month or so ago, so I know they are balanced and aligned. I'm wondering what could be causing that.

Hi, guys. My 1992 Legacy has started to get a continuous squeal upon start up. It goes away after a couple minutes by itself, but I am able most of the time to get it to stop by turning the steering wheel while the car is at rest. What's the deal? I assume it has something to do with the power steering?? It also gets a louder squeal when the RPMs go up.

You think that will solve the wiper pump as well? Any second opinions?

Hi. Both my horn and wiper pump in my 1992 legacy don't work right. The components themselves work, but hitting the switch doesn't get them power. Are there relays for these guys? I've checked all fuses and they are okay. I still need to check relays if there are any. I've been checking the forums and it seems a lot of people have issues with their "clock spring". I don't specifically know what that is, but could that be my issue? When mentioning the clock spring a lot of people say their cruise control is effected too. I don't have cruise control so I can't factor that into the diagnosis. What do you think? There are a few relays deep under the dash I want to look at today. Thanks.

I have checked the main fuse and relay box, but they are not in there. I have checked all the fuses I can find and they are fine. There are some relays deep under the dash, but they don't seem to be labeled.

I have a fairly new battery and the terminals are fine. I also have one of those books on repairs which says there is a relay for horn, but it doesn't say where it is. The wiring diagram for the wiper fluid pump system says it goes through a relay as well, but again doesn't say where it is.

My horn and wiper fluid pump systems are not working properly. The horn and pump do work when I jump then direct to the battery. I figure it may be their relays. I can't seem to find them, anyone know specifically where they are? Or know of a source that has a diagram of the locations of all the relays and fuses would be awesome. Thanks.

I guess maybe I will save myself the 40 bucks and return the compression gauge.