soobie_newbie67

so hey, does my car have a limited slip rear diff or what??? i would like to know. i just know that when i put the additive in the rear end, the thunking stopped. so im assuming its limited slip, but would like to know for sure.

dude, lmao, please dont question the dual range 4x4 after this: i did this. i had a carburated 1987 Subaru GL station with the D/R 5 speed. gutless as hell, and in 4 low still made it up this hill that was almost straight up near the top.

dont mean to steal the thread or nothing, this is someone on topic. my 1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo had an aftermarket temp gauge put in it so the factory one is uplugged; that wont affect my Air/Fuel ratio will it?

ha, hahaha, ha. yeah, im a idiot. missed the A the whooooooooole time. dont really know all too much about the stuff. i know a guy locally who sells the stuff, and believe it or not, its compatible with both R12 and R134A. i have not had the chance to try it yet, but the guy tells me its good stuff, and it costs less then either of those. he sells em daily at 8 dollars per 12OZ (1pound) can. i found this website to be interestingly helpful. http://freeze-12.com/

its is Full time 4 wheel drive. thats what they called all wheel drive back then. i figured out the problem though. these must/have to be posi-traction rear ends cause i put the additive in there and the shuddering while turning went away. says so right on the back: plus the absence of the shift lever: well, i guess you really cant see it can you. its cool though, cause i have the one with the differential lock switch. i'll have to take a pic of it.

why didnt you say so. hell yeah R12 is a waaaaaaaaaaaaay better, much colder too. my Subaru is running a restored R12 system and i love it. its even better then the A/C in out pickup trucks (they are R134A) you got a steal of a deal. biglots could have easy sold that stuff for 30 bucks a can and the normal person wouldnt think much of it cause they know how much more expensive it is even at that. i found 5 of the those 1 pound (12 OZ) cans and managed to get them for 5 bucks each. awesome find dude. oh, and the answer to your original queastion: well, lets see here, we got our system recharged in our 1991 Jaguar XJ6 Sovereign about 5 years ago, and we had to pay 60 bucks per pound(12 OZ) then take it in and have it charged. i guess its pretty sweet when you stumble upon someones stock that they didnt know they had and they sell it dirt cheap cause they dont know what its worth.

i read a little bit from a thread in the newer subaru's forum on here. when im turning my rear end acts a little funny. what should i do? oh, and what type of rear end do this rigs have??? 1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo full time 4 wheel drive.

it illegal to release it into the atmosphere. some places actually require a license to handle the stuff, and it expensive to get R12 systems charged. i actually managed to get a hold of four 1 pound cans of the stuff, and got my system recharged at school cause we have the machine that does that stuff. try looking around, if your lucky, you might be able to find a shop that might do it. or not. converting to R134A is your best bet. i was about to do that to my car, but decided not too after i found the R12. R12 is good stuff, freeze ya butt good. oh, what you need to convert to R134A: A/c flush/clean kit R134A seal kit new A/C drier pag 150 oil R134A refrigerant some A/c systems have a little filter in one of the lines some where that you have to replace too. i dont know if the Subaru's do, but i know i have a 1991 Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight that has that. and you might have to go to a shop to get your a/c system vacuumed, there can be no air in your system. you have to get all the moisture out. oh and for people that know, here's the reason R12 and R134A arent compatible: R12 uses mineral oil for the system lubrication, and R134A uses a Synthetic oil, and those 2 oils dont mix. but, im am starting to notice that some company is coming out with a refrigerant that is compatible with both systems, so take a look into that.

f'ing thank you. never ever thought of using dimes. i went down to the hardware and bought some washers that fit perfectly in the bottom of the bucket, then ground it down to .0040. it almost completely got rid of the clacking. just a few more thousandths. i'll probably do it again and go .0050.

are there shims avaliable for the EA82 lash adjusters. i have replaced all the HLA's on the side of the engine that is clacking, pulled the cam carrier, put a straight edge on top of the HLA's and found one that sits in further then the others. come to find out that some how the bucket got pushed in and thats causing the lifter to sit in. should i just put my other head on, or can i shim the lifter?

thank you! someone who understands

no, ugh. how do i explain the noise. you should know. clutch fans are quiet, as the engine heats up the clutch stops slipping, which in turn makes the fan start spinning faster, which in turn is pulling more air through, and it makes a noise just like an extremely large fan. you know, like you hear from semi trucks, both our trucks do it, and our motorhome does it while going down the highway. all clutch fans make the same noise. links: i said the S word, so it blocked it out. links to some good fans, i dont need a switch, i already have a temp sensing adjustable one.

no, the noise is nothing bad at all. its the sound of air as the fan starts to kick in. anything with clutch fan does it, im pretty sure you already know though so im gonna save my wind. if you could make links for me for the ************ i need that would be great.

dont worry. its not a chiner pos. it even says made in usa on it. it a 12 inch 2150 CFM fan. my grandpa had it (well them, he bought 2) in i think 1998 for a RV we had. he wanted to eliminate the clutch fan cause of how loud and noisey it was, but the 2 of them together couldnt keep the it near as cool as the clutch fan. summer is almost upon us so im not gonna change anything back for the time being. i dig back into it during winter when i dont have to worry about overheating so much.

well, im not offroading anymore seeing as last time i did, i found water in the rear diff. plus, i notice no power difference at all with the clutch fan vs the electric. i kinda already have it figured out that im gonna use the clutch fan during the summer and the electric one during the winter.

i used to just take out the clutch fan and put in an electric fan. i put my clutch fan back in by reccomendation from 1 person on here and my grandpa. i dont remember who it was that told me to put it back on but i thank you. the electric fan i put on was a stupid idea. it was a 12 inch fan and it couldnt keep my Subaru damn near as cool as the clutch fan. im happy i got it back on before it gets really hot next week. its a 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo.

i actually still have the stock calipers. these were direct fit rotors. took us a while to get the caliper screwed back in but it didnt fight us, which was nice. after getting them in with a screw driver and a hammer, i went down and bought the special tool for it for next time i do the brakes.

yeah. i have fully rebuilt the engine in my 1988 Subaru GL-10, turbo EA82, and the clacking is still there. did every trick in the book, but its actually starting to go away now. i guess time is what matters the most. the 5 speed is an awesome swap idea, and nice to notice more people like it then i originally thought. my Subaru has the 5 speed with the center diff lock switch. i love it. AWD around town, and 4 wheel drive off road. to post pics the best way to do it is to post them on photobucket, then link them here. like this, i will bug a link so you can see it: http://i1092.photobucket.com/albums/i406/carsman710/windowpictures042.jpg' alt='windowpictures042.jpg'>

yeah i know. it'd be so sick to get groups going that go out and do time trials like once a week or so. i know there are 2 different groups of people where i live that go street racing at midnight every Friday and Saturday night. i stay the hell away from em though, they're high stakes racers. where do you live?

because, i need to the code history. my CEL isnt on atm, but comes on once in while while going down the highway, and sometimes tends to flash when i first start the car and then it goes away. and the light on the ECU isnt doing anything out of the ordinary, cept the regular flashing when the key is on, then goes away after starting the car.

what can? we also have Modis Genisys scan tools. i guess i might give "it" a try. i never bothered cause im betting its so new that its kit doesnt come with the right hook up.

at my school we have a Snap On brand scan tool and i have been trying to use it to read the codes off my 1988 Subaru GL-10. the tool tells me what cables to use and where to hook up to (one of those plugs thats under the hood) but for some reason the scan tool isnt getting a connection. could any of the testing plugs that are under the drivers dash be it? do i have to connect those the get the scan tool to read? this is driving me nuts. help please. oh yeah. i do the have key on when hooked up. the scan tool goes the please wait screen and just stays there.

do you really expect me to do this again just for your entertainment? it hurt when i hit my head. plus, i really dont think i'd be able to get a pic of that. im at school right now so im not able to take a pic of my fan yet.

ok, so i got the fan hooked up, made the circuit, tested it out, everything works perfectly, so i go to the field test. i fire engine, and with the hood open, hold my hand on the upper hose waiting for the T-stat to open, when it did, i went to reach in my car and flip the switch to turn the fan. i forgot the window was up and smacked my head on my window so hard i almost fell down. i also crack my knuckles on the window cause i was going to reach in with my hand too. i have a headache now. but the fan is installed and works great.

dude, that bumper you put on the rear is bad rump roast.