soobie_newbie67

the factory fan switch works. its just that it doesnt activate until the engines reaches around 215 to 220 degrees. i would like them to come on earlier then that. i will probably leave the factory electric fan hooked up to its circuit as is, and do what i mentioned earlier; hook my aftermarket fan up with its own circuit and have a fan switch for it inside the car so i can turn it on when i want it on.

I live in Kennewick Washington looking for people who would like to do time trials on a couple of dirt tracks near where i live. there is one at my house, and 2 more within a 10 minute drive from my house. i own a 1988 Subaru GL-10 thats unmodded, and i woulndt recommend anything lower then stock ride height. but hey, if anyone hits me up, it'd be great to have someone to time trial with. FYI, this would not be any illegal racing of any sort. it wouldn't even be one on one, its time trials, im pretty sure you guys now what time trails are. (no insult inteaded) i just wanted to add that this would all be for fun. i think it would be great to meet some other people from the board and get to challenge other peoples times.

by the sounds of it, maybe i should just hook up the fan directly up to the battery and have a switch for it in the car. after hearing the responses, thats kinda the idea i get, by what dannyt says. i have done this for a Ford Aerostar i have that has a bad clutch fan, and it works alright. i was just wanting to see if there was a way to hook up the fan on a circuit that will turn it on on its own.

rebuilt that POS IHI RHB5 turbo, and put on some badass cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front and back with ceramic brake pads.

well, seeing as it was run low on oil, a number of things could have happened. the bearings could have seized (which is usually what happens first) or the piston rings could be melted to the cylinder walls. another possible thing is the seized camshafts (not too likey though) if your lucky, the main bearings might have seized up first. 300 dollars is a ************ing steal, if it werent for the fact that you want it, i would buy it right now seeing as i live in washington. you might get lucky and find out what i mentioned, even then if the mains seized first, you might be just looking at a new crank, but at the same time, im wondering what the condition of the connecting rods is, hopefully unbent, just bearings seized. any number of things can happen.

will do. thanks for the tip. yes, it does have factory A/C, and yes, it does have one electric cooling fan on it. but its one of those fans that only turns on when the engine reaches a curtain temperature, or if the A/C head pressure gets too high.

so im trying to hook up dual electric cooling fans. i have a 12 inch fan and im also using the electric one thats already on there. i was wondering what would be a good power source for setting it up to where the fans run all the time. also, i was wondering if it might at all be possible to somehow hook up to the A/C circuit to where the cooling fans come on every time the A/C compressor comes on. or i might later on just buy an aftermarket adjustable temp sensing switch.

ok, i had the firing order wrong on my last post. it went like this: 1. 120 2. 130 3. 130 4. 130 the number 1 cylinder was the low one, but not by much. and the reason i wasnt worried about it was cause the engine has loads of powers, and i dont have air blowing out of the crankcase, so my rings are fine. i had the valves lapped in so that wouldnt be a problem.

friken A, i've taken a bunch of pics too, but left that one out. all the crap i've done to this car im actually compiling for my end of the year school project, and im pretty sure my teacher would have wanted to see that.

so hey. about those buckets. i noticed something funny. one of them is pushed in. like, the other "buckets" (if thats what they are called) stick out a little bit, and one of them is kinda pushed in and flush with the surface of the head, which also is letting the HLA sit further in than it should. could this be causing my clacking cause the HLA cant push the rocker fully against the cam?

well, here's my situation with the car. i have completely and fully rebuilt the engine and replaced everything. bearings, rings, gaskets, seals. plus, i got into some legal trouble while driving this car so it cost me about 3000 dollars in attorney fees and 2000 dollars in restitution and court costs. so yeah, getting rid of the car is out of the question. i would really like to get a hold of a EJ22, but now i dont have the have the money, and im pretty damn sure someone isnt willing to throw the engine and wiring harness my way. so yeah. im pretty royally ************ed. plus, i found out the crank isnt seized. my buddy and i overlooked the cam sprocket bolts. they werent tightened all the way, so they just got bashed around by the cam sprocket till they sheered off. my buddy and i got it all put back together and running, but now it acts like its missing a cylinder. now i ask this question. is the EA82 a interference engine or not? i find it funny cause we ran a compression check and got 1. 130 2. 120 3. 130 4. 130 cylinder number 2 is only off by 10. would that make any difference? is that why its running rough?

*THIS* ok, here's the real story. i was tired last night from working all day on my car and i was making assumptions on what happened. what really happened was the right side cam shaft seized up, which in turn sheered off the cam sprocket bolts and ruined the sprocket. the clicking only stopped cause nothing on the right side was spinning. well, that tells me there is nothing wrong with the left side of the engine. ok, here's some things i want to point out to help people more clearly try to understand and help me out. i have used the special little dealer-attained o-rings that go in the cam carriers. i have replaced all the HLA's on the right side of the engine. i have taken an air compressor and blew out every single oil passage on the cam carrier. some things that i think might have been mistakes. i accidentally left out one of the cam carrier alignment keys that helps you but the cam carrier onto the head. (didnt think it would be a problem cause i doubt it has anything to do with oil flow) and i used an air compressor to blow out the passage that feeds the oil to the camshaft and lifters. i think that might be where i caused a problem. i didnt want to do it but my grandpa told me too. *THIS* hey GD, if your out there, i deserve an "I told you so" from you. you warned me about all the BS that comes from an EA82, and i refused to listen.

*OLD* so, as some people may know i have a 1988 Subaru GL-10 station wagon with the EA82 turbo. the clacking finally stopped, but only because the lifter that was clacking finally collapsed and the little rocker thingy fell off. so, now i know for sure which one was clacking, but its not on the side i thought it was on. i kept digging and digging on the passenger side of the engine cause i swear to god that was the side that was clacking. i even took off the oil filler cap and it got louder. well, the clacking was actually coming from the drivers side of the engine. so, heres how it went. after trying a clack-stopping trick a USMB member told me try (blow air through all the oil passages on the cam carrier) my friend and i put it all back together and decided on a test drive. well, we get to the highway and while doing about 60 mph in 5th gear (everything normal) i all of a sudden hear a very distinct sound come from my side of the car. (sounded like a rock hitting the underside) then nothing. didnt notice a power loss right away cause i was coming up on a turn and had actually shifted into neutral right after the sound. then my friend and i decide to randomly stop and check for oil leaks right quick. after noticing none i went to take off, noticed a pretty good lack of power, and instantly said, "oh shi*, one of lifters collapsed and the rocker fell off." i knew what it was right away cause i had almost all of you guys warning me about this if i dont find the clacking lifter soon enough. well, it happened. so, here i go to take about the hard-to-work-on side of the engine. wish me luck. i really need it. *OLD* this is from last night. what actually happened is posted down lower.

thanks for the tip. im definitely gonna have to try this operation.

yeah, i replaced those. i dont know if the oil pressure is enough. it runs about 38 to 40 psi when fully warmed up. thats with a aftermarket guage hooked up to it.

i have replaced: the oil pressure relief vavle springs in the cam carriers new lifters on the side thats clicking (just the right side is clicking) got the correct O-rings for the cam carriers added a little bit of Lucas Oil thinking it might help. why is the blasted thing still ticking. any ideas? oh, it's been about 1100 miles since finishing the full rebuild, about 120 miles on the new lifters. replaced the oild about 800 miles ago. 10W-40 Valvoline Premium Conventional. oh again. its my 1988 Subaru GL-10 Turbo EA82.

well, she's getting repainted this summer. (original color of course) im debating weather or not to replace the decals or eliminate them. i was thinking of eliminating them and having just a paint job, nothing fancy.

its there, didnt you see?? its just faded cause the car is 24 years old.

yes; full time 4 wheel drive. its cool cause it's even got this little switch that you can flip that locks the center differential.

heres a pic of my car. the only damage on the whole car: i used some skateboard grip tape one the clutch and brake pedal: cross drilled and slotted rotors with ceramic brake pads. this is just the rear, the company i bought from sent me the wrong front ones so they are not on yet.

everything is finished. i have done the complete overhaul, replaced all the bearings, rings, gaskets, seals and hoses. i have bought a bearing kit for the turbo and rebuilt that too. the interior is looking brand new, like always. the only thing left is im gonna replace all lifters on the right(Passenger side) of the engine cause the blasted thing still clacks a little, but not very loud, you dont even really notice it till you open the hood. lets see, i think i have to post a question. aww, here's one. um, what type of oil should i use in my car? i heard Valvoline, but should i use conventional or synthetic??? right now im running Valvoline 10w-40 premium conventional oil.

well, got my Subaru GL-10 station wagon back after a month in the impound and it had mice in it. thank god they didnt eat any of the electricals. then, on the day i got it back, i got the throttle cable and hood pull cable replaced. funny story there too. when i went to replace my throttle cable, i went to open the hood and the hood cable snapped, right at the very end where that little metal ball is. i had to carefully rip off the grill, then i got my fingers behind the hood latch and got my hood open. then, next week, im replacing the right side lifters.

how much are you seeling it for??? i might be intersted if you dont take the rear disc off. i live in Kennewick WA. oh, and if you want to keep it, it sounds like you just need headgaskets. if you do that and it takes care of the water in the oil, then you would have a good car that would work for you till the end of time.

well, i will ask but i dont know if he will be using the EJ25d. he has an EJ22 NA in the car right now. he wants to use a EJ25 from a WRX Sti, but i told him he should just build he EJ22. plus, like you said the EJ22 is NOT an interference engine, so thats great. i personally hate interference motors cause timing belts could go unexpecedly at any time. ive seen people but new timing belts on and have them go three days later (not on Subaru's, 1 VW, a Chrysler that i cant remember, and a Ford Focus. ) it pretty damn rare, but its one of those little things i personally wouldnt want to chance. the kid (well shouldnt say that he's 22) seem to know a lot about Subaru's too, he named off all the engines like "I" didnt already know. know i want to ask if he knows that the EJ22 is not an interference engine, so im going to. plus, which WRX turbo'd engine is the best: the EJ25 or the EJ20? i personally like the EJ20 series.

no, thats what i dont get. it runs, and the car itself is damn near perfect. he has even swapped out the body parts for those from the wrx sti or that year. it looks so bad rump roast. but i thought he should keep the engine thats in it.