soobie_newbie67

how about the lightweight crank pully's? anyone have any opinion on those?

i punched in that part number on eBay and got the same price results. The one i provided the link too also showed up in the search. and it does include free shipping. link to said kit that is the same but cheeper?

the new crank is from a free phase 2 a friend gave me but it needs to be ground. definitely not reusing that crank or rod ever. lol. the bearing on the end cap was toast, and the half on the rod was fused to it.

that happens when the crank pulley isn't properly torqued. its a common problem

i couldnt seem to find opinions from Subaru owners on a couple parts i wanna buy. I found an Exedy clutch kit that seems decent http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXEDY-CLUTCH-KIT-SUBARU-BAJA-FORESTER-IMPREZA-LEGACY-2-5L-SOHC-NON-TURBO-EJ25D-/321056926419?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000|Model%3ALegacy|Submodel%3AGT&hash=item4ac07bead3&vxp=mtr whats your guys' opinion on them, or should i buy from the dealer? Also, i found 3 different lightweight crank pullys; Perrin, Grimmspeed, and Cobb, and was wondering what you guys think of them or if i sholdnt get one at all. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perrin-Lightweight-Light-Crank-Pulley-Subaru-WRX-STi-Forester-Baja-Legacy-/300626128100?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000|Model%3ALegacy|Submodel%3AGT&hash=item45feb6ace4&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cobb-Tuning-Lightweight-Main-Crank-Pulley-Blue-Subaru-Impreza-WRX-STI-Legacy-GT-/281247046576?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item417ba15bb0&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/Grimmspeed-Crank-Pulley-Subaru-WRX-STi-Legacy-GT-Black-/260896702146?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2000|Model%3ALegacy|Submodel%3AGT&hash=item3cbea7bec2&vxp=mtr They all have the same benefits, but does brand make a difference?

So. for anyone who doesnt already know, i tore the engine down and the crank and number 1 rod are fried

so i was aware when i bought my 2000 GT that it had a bad rod bearing (typical 2.5) but i was expecting it to be a 3 or 4 rod bearing. well get this, its the number 1 rod bearing that went, and it got sooooo hot it discolored the crank and rod! I've never seen that happen. what in the world causes this? You can see it was pretty well taken care of by the lack of sludge and varnish. I've never seen this before, but i'm sure someone has. lol

So i recently purchased a 2000 Legacy GT wagon, and the sunroof shade for the front half of the sunroof is having issues. Visibility is limited so i couldnt see if something was blocking it. maybe its sticky? It wont open all the way or close. I forced it back and it pushed in on the right and stuck on the left. Is there anyway to take that stuff apart to clean or check it? I got the shade back on it tracks (after a few bad words) and i'm back to where i started. Any ideas?

Well, I sold my 1996 Legacy L wagon today and bought a 2000 Legacy GT wagon. Its a 5 speed and has dual sunroofs! I freaking love it already. It's gonna take some work to make her as nice as my old 96, but it will definitely be worth it when i'm done. all the pics i have for now. gonna start tearing out the engine tomorrow.

luckily I was spared the horror of his joke cause I went straight for the pics then did the reading. lol

hopefully your factory headgaskets have been replaced with updated ones. and find out whether or not the timing belt has been replaced. a couple good things to think about before diving into performance items.

dang. I looked at it on my phone and you can see its been wrecked and the front pieced together. that guy is on something if he thinks he can get what he has into it on top of making money. I wouldn't do it. You'll probably find out he made the lift kit too xD

does it currently not run or something? if it runs drive it till you've collected everything you need for the swap so you and a buddy ( I prefer a friend around on big jobs) can nail it in one weekend.

where the flippin flopster is this shiznat? I need to freaking go there!

car is 100 percent rust free. no mods either. I'll check the slide pins just to be sure, though I doubt they'll be a problem. I did my Outback front brake swap about 7k miles ago hoping that might help, but the brakes felt the same even after that mod.

We have 5 Legacys between 95 and 99 and my car is the only one that acts like this. The rest of our Legacys all have a solid feeling pedal. when you press it, you dont have to press very far or hard before the car starts breaking. But in my car, your always pushing the pedal almost its full travel to the floor to stop the car, and it wont lock up the tires. The brakes dont start applying lightly until the pedal is halfway down. It feels kinda soft and like the brake system itself doesnt have much power. I replaced the master cylinder thinking that might be it, but it still feels exactly the same. I have NO AIR in the system. We flushed 2 quarts of brake fluid through the system to make sure of that, and i used a vacuum brake system bleeder, not one of those hand pump ones either. I've inspected all lines, rubber and metal, and found no problems. Could it be the vacuum booster itself? Another thing i've noted is that when i'm on loose surfaces and slam on the brakes, making the ABS do its thing, the car will use the ABS for one stop, then the light comes on and it wont work till i shut off the car and turn it back on.

am I gonna need a different front crossmember to clear the uppipe?

TURRRRRRRRRRRRRBBBOOOOOOOOOOO! !!!! Lol. yeah. im gonna start getting everything ready for my turbo build. should be epic

You need a spare from an Outback.

I wanna install a EGT sensor and gauge when i do the turbo build, but what side of the turbo should it be installed? Before or after?

Alright. They don't really show off the new hood, but i took these nice pics the other day So. I dont always get to drive in the snow, but when i do, there's always one of these around to screw it up xD Please, rate and comment! I love feedback.

so my short block is just a straight up better candidate ey? well guess I'll stick to my original plans than.

so what would the compression be with 2.2+2.5 heads?

alright. sweet. so now that we are on the same page I ask this: does the phase II 2.5 have a stronger bottom end having bigger rods? would it be a good candidate for my turbo project or should I stick with the 2.2 short block?