soobie_newbie67

haha. lol. I'm forgetting my own crap. we got that trans from a scrap yard. we handed it over to him to be rebuilt when he told us our original trans was too wore out.

or, I could go to the guy who did the transmission work. he got us a new case and rebuilt it cause the original trans was too wore out. this sounds like his error and he should have to fix it.

the trans code on that plate on the strut tower says TZ102Z2ABA but the trans is TZ102Z2AAA. would that make any difference?

well, I left something out. I'm still using the outbacks speedometer/gauge cluster. would the wiring harness in the dash be different? I thought the ecu tells the dash how fast your going

our 1996 outback is 1 mph off for every 10 mph. I was going 72 down the highway and found myself getting a ticket for 79 mph. how is the speedometer that slow? the car has the correct sized tires on it 205/70-15. we can't figure out what's making it that far off. we checked the speedometer with a gps speedometer app on my phone and sure enough its off. cop wasn't lying. could be because of the wiring in the dash? I replaced the hole dash with one out of a legacy L sedan.

We just bought a 1999 Outback limited with a bad number 3 rod bearing. I'm baffled at this motor. You know previous owners, they like to leave stuff out, or maybe they just straight up dont know, but i would have thought this should be the reworked 2.5 with shim-over-bucket heads. Its not, its got hydrolic lifters, the 96 low comp heads and 96 high comp pistons. maybe someone swapped a 96 2.5 into it? or did Subaru go backwards with their engines? Also, i've got another engine. got it for free. it is the reworked 2.5 with shim-over-bucket valvetrain, high comp heads and low comp pistons. They guy told me it was out of a 1997 Outback, but the bearing have me scratching my head. Of all the 2.5's i've worked on so far (only 4, lol) the thrust bearing was the 3rd one. on my free engine, the thrust bearing is the 5th one, furthest one back. Also, comparing it the other three 2.5's we have, the connecting rod journals are bigger in diameter. what engine is this? its driving me nuts not knowing what year this block is cause i dont what bearings to get.

how much?

Bought and installed some 139db Hella Supertones So what do you guys think of my car to this point? She's had a hell of a lot of work done to her, and i'm slowly adding little mods here and there. My biggest mod will be when i build my turbo Ej22 backwards frankenmotor with 2.5 DOHC heads.

Subaru's dont have a tendency to die easily. Keep your fluids changed and up to level, and you'll enjoy that car for a few hundred thousand miles. Oh, and stuff like oil and trans fluid (automatic) change them according to the way you drive. If you drive hard all the time your gonna wanna change fluids early. 3000 miles for engine oil and 20000 miles for trans if you drive hard all the time. You can go 4k to 4500 miles on an oil change if your nice to the car all the time, and 30 to 40 thousand miles on trans fluid. And coolant coolant coolant. gotta watch that stuff on these cars.

Ok. So should i go standalone ECU? Maybe a Megasquirt? A programable ecu would be direct fit and accessable through the OBDII connector right? I dont wanna have to do any wiring, but if i have to do a little whatever. I'm really good at electronics and wiring and whatnot, i just dont like doing it xD Oh. and could someone recommend a turbo? i was thinking of using a TDO4 turbo, but apparently they have different numbers like TDO4L and TOD4HL.

The turbo blocks are very hard to find, and i dont plan on using more than 10psi. i've been reading around and people say the N/A block cant handle more than 12psi. Sorry, no source, but if someone could back that up that'd be great. Also, gonna buy a forged crank, Eagle con rods, Wiseco pistons, EJ25D heads. I hate that i dont keep track of sources -.- I read on another forum someone who built a turbo ej22 the exact same way i want too. 10psi boost, forged crank and rods, (dont know exactly what name brands) Ej25 heads, and it seemed to be working pretty good for him running the stock N/A pistons. I guess if you use the low comp heads from a 96 EJ25D it lowers the compression good enough for boosting. Of course, he had only put 10k miles on it since building it so i wouldnt know anything about the reliability of this build ATM. Doesnt help i cant find it now. Sorry, i fail at life. I'd like to reach 200 hp. Whats the possibility of reaching this goal? Sorry i dont keep track of sources. ADHD. I never thought i'd ever need to read em again xD

I'm soo happy with this car. I was surprised when i ran a carfax on it. all the way up to the point when i bought it, every single last bit of maintenance done on the car was done at the dealer. All oil changes, timing belts, trans fluid changes, it was all done at the dealer at the required intervals, some of it done a little early. I cant believe i got that lucky. Its no wonder why this thing runs so freaking good and never gives me any problems. I was even able to call the dealer and confirm all the maintenance that was done. Pretty cool stuff if you ask me.

we didnt mic the jounals we just plastigauged the bearings. .003 on all mains. for the rods, .003 on number 4 and roughly .002 to .003 on the rest

I think out 96 2.5 Outback needs a new oil pump. we freshened up the engine with new bearings (ACL racing bearings off ebay) and new gaskets and whatnot. When you first start it up, you can hear the bearing rattle a little, then it goes away when the engine builds oil pressure. everything seems to be at book spec, which the haynes manual says 14 to 26 psi at 2000 (Fully warmed up) It does about 30 psi. but when you let it idle, it drops to 4 psi. would a new oil pump solve this problem?

Sorry O.C.D. I havent been on in a while. 1. Omni brand basecoat, cant remember the clear coat brand, but it was quite expensive. i told the paint shop i didnt want a clear coat thats gonna peel in 2 years 2. Only issue i had was not being able to see all the dents until i was done painting. the really small dents are hard to spot. you need a very good sense of touch and sight. 3. Yes, i have a 45 gallon Dewalt brand air compresser and HVLP guns. works great. when you do the clear coat though, but it on in thin layers, to help prevent orange peel. I like to get about 3 even coats sprayed, then on the 4th coat you have to lay it on just right that it all looks shiny. 4. Look out for those hidden dents xD also, it really does help to take as much off the car as possible like i did. Or course, i did that cause i was ocd about not having any noticeable tape lines along the trim and whatnot. 5. Resources? the only resource i used during painting was a friend. it sucks trying to walk around the car with hoses trying to hit it all the time. Ok, now for some new pics. Some are random, but i'm gonna start off with the pics of getting my new tires. Starting with thee new tires. First one on. My old tires were worse than i thought. A nice shot all clean with the new treads. A random pic of the stickers i have on my car. Some people think they are tacky, but i do have freedom of expression thank you very much. So far, i have stickers from Brundage Mountain near McCall Idaho and White Pass in Washington. My favorite is the Labrador one xD

and I got the lean thing figured out. hooked up to the wrong wire. a/f meter work excellent now.

So begins the painting since some a$$h0le shot my car while i was camping. its actually already completely done. has been done for 2 weeks now. is there a design flaw in these hoods? 3 of our 4 Subaru's have dents on or near the exact same spots as mine. Right on the freaking crease of the hood too. Got the chance to get this fixed too. Break in attempt damage that was there before i bought the car. and some general dent fill ins everything is just random from here. I forgot to take pics during the base coat steps, and only have after pics of the clear coat. for to take pics while i painted. btw. primer spot are filled spots. and after clear coat. like i said. completely forgot finished pics of base coat. taillights back on I let my buddy Cody paint and clear coat my rear bumper. His first time ever using a gun. perfect coverage and no runs. He even signed the base coat and then cleared over that. He insisted so i let him, but in a not too obvious spot.

whats the fuel octane requirement for a frankenmotor?

So. Let me reword this a little since i came off kinda harsh. They say (Delta Cams) Custom orders over the phone. My topic got locked so i couldnt ask any further questions there, and i couldnt find the info i was looking for searching (i'm sure its on this website somewhere). Maybe i'm getting ahead of myself here. I should ask WHY do people put in the delta cams in the first place? what changes do the cams make after upping the compression with the EJ22 heads?

could someone please point me in the right direction to buy some? we are gonna turn the ej25d in our 1996 outback into a frankenmotor. and will heads from a 1993 legacy 2.2 work?

actually, we have 4 subarus. 1995 legacy ls, 1995 legacy outback L, 1996 legacy L, 1996 legacy outback. the climate control lights do not work on any of our cars. is this a common problem? I couldn't find a fix.

go to your local walmart and buy a Wipe New kit for 20 bucks. follow the instructions and you can make 10 plus sets of foggy headlights look like the new ones above. it actually works. I used it on all four of our subarus and will definitely buy it again.

sweet. more east Washington subys! I live in the tricities. welcome

looks great dude. love that custom install of the bov on that ea82t. would have loved to have that on my old 88 gl-10

the ej22 does have more power. pics would be awesome too. your car sounds badass