blackdynamite

Still waiting on part, should be here in a few days...LOL i hate being so far away from the city... :\ Just the mail system in general takes at least an extra 3 days for something to ship. That might have to do with the curvy roads and 2 foot of snow....LOL

Thank you very much, I'll keep searching and see what i can find. I figured how the tensioner looked, it was self adjusting, so that clears that up. :]

well, whenever you rebuild an injector, they all seem to use a 9v to test if it is working. I didn't do a compression check yet, because it was a last resort, as was timing. And I have no Idea how to do either on this motor. I researched both, but the stuff I've found has been mixed ways to do it or super vague answers(like check your timing and make sure it's at the correct spot.....whats the correct location...i mean, I'm not stupid, but all cars are different and i want to do it correct). Same with the idle screw, i still haven't found the correct position for it...they just say same vague answer....and that is "not to touch it/adjust it" How do you check the cam timing and make sure it's in the correct spot? (If it is incorrect, how do i correct this? My Toyota's had a spring loaded tensioner with a bolt in the center, every once in a while, you loosened the bolt and it would apply the correct tension after wear. then you would tighten it back up) What is the correct spot for the idle screw? (PS: It was tampered with and is not in the correct place) How do you check compression? (I know you use a compression tester and i do have one. Is there a special way/recommended way to do it And what psi should the cylinders read?) Thanks Again, BD

Yep, I'll check it out and see what i can figure out. I'll update soon! Pulled out the maf sensor and looked inside. It was cleanest I've ever seen one before. LOL It looks Super new. Might have been replaced. I dunno ;]

Gotta get one of these first ;] http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160496983588&viewitem=#vi-content

WAY ahead of you bossman ;]

Ok, so i checked the codes. 11 12 14 15 16 17 23 24 31 49 The TPS code came from when i Unplugged it, Same with the Idle Air. LOL i got ALL injectors codes...but then soon figured out this was from me unplugging them whilst it was running to isolate the skip. checked all injectors with a 9v battery and all are operating the same, Clicking, etc. The Airflow meter looks brand new and the code is due to me unplugging it. But i took the Idle air out today, the Whole aluminum box unit. Noticed the Spring/Coil inside is FUBAR. The one the size of a half dollar...not the little spring that connects to the 2 wire sensor. Gonna need one of those :[ So that explains some of the idle wondering... And there is Definitely a crack in knock sensor. So gonna get one of those as well.

Everyone says not to touch the idle screw, But no one talks about the correct location. Mine was flush with the top of the hole it screws into. i could screw it in about 5 complete times. I'm going to adjust it until i get correct settings on my tps. ;] I would NEVER think you guys are wanting me to Throw parts at it. ;] I just ask a lot of questions and i like a combination of answers. This is how i solve problems...LOL. I've learned more about a Subaru in two days, than i have in my whole life. All the information you guys have post has been MORE than enough! I am planning on having the vehicle a good while. So, some what of preemptive maintenance is a good thing. Pm'ed ;]

I figured i would have to and i will soon, but would it cause the problem that is at hand now? If i went and unplugged the knock sensor or if it was failing, would it show a check engine light and/or make the skip happen? :]

I already found out how to check the codes. My supra's are OBD1, but are a little different and are easier check. http://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091108171501AATx9qX Now, i was looking at the codes, if an injector was failing, wouldn't it show a code like 14-17? I tested the injectors and they seemed to work fine. One was a little dirty though....nothing crazy....seen worse. Same with the knock sensor. It looked like it might have a crack in it. But if it was failing, wouldn't it make the check engine light come on? I don't have a check engine light on now, but i wanna see what codes are stored. The automatic's had a different looking injector than the manual. i do know that already. :] The only bad part is a live in a town of 2500 people, 3 1/2 hours one way to a town that doesn't have a junk yard. :[

Looks like 2.5 or a later 2.2

Also, whenever the car is under a load under 3000 RPM, you feel a loss of power and it skips a little as well. Gonna check codes tomorrow. Hope this helps. ;]

LOL, i love motors in general...But i would have designed this one Way different...LOL I wish the Alt, Starter, or A/C was the problem...because they're all easy and accessible...But everything else isn't...ROFL :-\

actually i have NO idea when it was Changed, Or if it was EVER changed...Does it have an automatic tensioner? a way to adjust? I presume there is a guide on how to check it. I'll do a search, because i am new and i like doing research. Not fond of the boxers motors, But i am fond of non interference ;]

Also, i noticed that the idle screw on top of the TB was screwed way out. And if i remember correctly on Fuel injected vehicles, you're not supposed to mess with that screw. On my supra you're supposed to screw it all the way in and back out 2 complete turns. Does anyone know? :]