Idasho

not gonna work. The ea81 fuel pump doesnt operate until the motor is turning.

The digital dash hasnt given me any real trouble. I did have one of the buttons freeze up the first winter I had it. Too much moisture I think. The car had accumulated a good amount of snow on the floorboards from snowy boots, then we had a couple of warm days, then some REAL cold days. I parked it in the shop with a heater on for a few days and havnt had any issues since. I did upgrade to the Nissan maxima alternator soon after I purchased it though. Alternator failure is supposed to be the main killer for the digidash.

I like this car!

Call the or email them. You probably got a miss-boxed item. It happens. They will email you a pre-paid shipping tag for the wrong part, issue a credit for it when then get it back, and you just need to re-order. Rockauto is anything but hard to deal with. You just have to communicate with them. I would sggest using the BECK/ARNLEY line of calipers as well.

Made it purdy.... Runs pretty good too

Awesome. Though with as substantial as that hoop looks, I think you should go further and create a type of exo-cage for that Subaru Just run some tube to the top of the windshield, then down to the strut towers. And tied left to right. With good DOM tubing, it would provide some good roll-over protection.

Hey guy, I was noticing the change in your front clearance lamps on this GL of yours... From clear to amber And was wondering, do you still have the clear ones? Id love to have a clean spare set if you want to sell them

Yep, motor runs GREAT!! I put another 50 miles on her today. Worked that motor pretty hard to get the piston rings to bed. So far so good. Gauges in the green, no weird noises, and no leaks... so far Here are a couple of photos from this afternoon. Even got some snow today.

Thats why my first stop for parts is the dealer. Subaru has yet to hand me an incorrect part. And typically cost is so similar to a parts house, I may as well go OEM.

If it is THAT hard to start hot for you then you are simply running too rich. Have you done the proper weber carb tuning procedure?

Okay, I lied Vids here: If somebody could embed them, that would be appreciated. Im still trying to figure that out :-p First start: After initial break-in run:

Mine doesnt. It does flood a bit on hot starts though, if you touch the throttle at all.

Yeah, I might do that with the second round of break-in. I drained the oil and gave it a fresh filter this afternoon, I ran a magnet through the oil that I drained, and couldnt find ANYTHING. Thats good:headbang: With fresh oil and filter I fired it back up, set the idle, and checked the timing. All good. It does have a small bog off idle if you stab the throttle, so Ill have to adjust the mix a bit. I was able to take it on its maiden voyage. 20 miles later all it well. Sounds good, feels great, all the gauges in the normal, and the trans shifts buttery smooth compared to the old 4-speed. I should have some more pics and vids this weekend.

it might be set properly, but is it working? Also, have you checked the timing?

choke needs adjustment. Is it electric?

Still have a few things in tidy up under the hood. But I got the first initial start done. Prime oil system with coil wire removed and fuel lines clamped off. Then install coil wire and remove clamp on fuel lines. Less than 2 revolutions and it started. Fast idle held between 2000 and 2500 RPM for 15 minutes. Then change oil and filter. Time for break-in

I have a dashmat brand one in my GL. Got it from JCWhitney great fit, and matches the interior very well.

Want to bet? :-p

Sure, but if the capacity of said wire far exceeds the device it is powering, a fuse is not needed. You already have a few of these under the hood on a STOCK car.

Wrong dude. Wire length and wire size are both used when determining the capacity of a wire. Length most certainly matters.

So... Uh.... It RUNS More to come....

And... I think I found the actual problem. I made a call to the scrap yard that I had the shifter and driveshaft pulled from. Its from an EJ rig. No wonder it doesnt fit quite right. Telltale is the type of linkage I have... and the reason I had to shorten it so much. The driveline and shift linkage came from the same rig. And as far as I can tell searching, the EJ prop shaft is longer on the EJ's. My prop shaft is already installed, and I like the clearance. So the rear shaft will be shortened, and I should be good to go.

I was able to get a bit done this evening. Interior vac'd, linkage finalized, and center console installed. Front seats went in too.

Dropping the diff wont do it. Mocking it up Id have to drop it nearly 5 inches to make it work. 1" too long at these shallow angles makes for one heck of a drop to make up the difference. Oh well.... have to continue on. Custom driveshaft later...

yes, the intermediate driveshaft is within 1/8" of bottoming out on the output shaft of the trans. You dont want is all the way bottomed out, as you want the center support bearing to float, without side loads. Ive got 2.5" of lift on the front. I think Ill drop the diff and see how it looks before I deal with a custom driveline.