Idasho

Only thing that comes to my mind is the lift might have something to do with it. The front is lifted, the rear is not (cranked up torsion bar). That puts the output of the trans much more in line with the input to the rear diff.

Some pain-staking work this evening. Working out custom linkage is always a bit tricky, to get it 100%. Must have test fitted the shifter 10 times before installing it for the final time. Got it figured out though. Then I went to work on the center support bearing mount. A bit of 1/8" scrap did it. Large fender washers on the interior Got the exhaust installed, still need to fab up a hanger for the tail end of the y-pipe. And right before I called it quits I grabbed the rear driveshaft to test fit. it doesnt..... the damn 2-piece driveshaft is a full 1-inch TOO LONG :-\ I simply dont know what to say about that... motor is right where it used to be, this is a 5-speed D/R from a '85 GL with the appropriate driveshaft. yet it is too long??? Guess I get to go see a driveline shop afterall. At least it is driveable in 2wd as it is right now. Ill do the motor break-in without the rear driveline, then get it fitted.

Ive been lucky lately, the wife has been out of town. So I get home, pop a frozen pizza in the oven, surf the web, eat dinner, then retreat to the shop until I feel like going to bed

good golly! Sweet project, fab work looks great

Thanks guys. Im getting closer with this.... lots of misc things done today. Though I was only able to get a couple of hours in. Lots of electrical work, and simple reassembly. AC compressor installed, battery installed. Working on shift linkage. 4wd rod extended, and both the support rod and shift rod shortened by 2 1/2 inches. The goal is to make it look factory from in the cabin. No swapping consoles here. Its close, still have some work to do. The support rod needs to be rotated to the right a few degrees to make hitting reverse easier. Then the shifter rod will be fabricated. Speaking of reverse.... I guess I got the trans wiring correct test run of the new gauge. And started on the center support bearing mounts. I got to here and realized that the front seats need to come out to do it right... So this where I ended for the night...

So what normally causes it? Worn out rod bearings or are the caps stretching?

Thats alright. Not too many folks near here, and short notice doesnt help. Maybe next time! And for any that want to see this GL, just droop me a line. Your always welcome! :cool:

Im talking about the clearance lamps

Thanks belacane. I do clean work because I HATE working on filthy cars. That, and I hate doing things twice. Do it once, do it right!

I guess so, I think Id use them anyways. Thick enough to grind down to clean steel, and they wont be seen anyways Great progress on this project BTW. You have more gusto than I. Id never tackle such a large job that required so much russssttt repair. zzz

Those clearance lamps are HOT. Great find!

why dont you use the flanges off of the old one?

After the firewall and tunnel were cleaned, the tunnel got a heavy coat of rubberized undercoat. Tow hooks were cleaner and re-painted. And with the help of a couple of buddies, it went back in. And to be 100% clear, the ea81 mounts did work, but I DID have to widen the holes in the subframe. Each one was widened 1/2 inch or so. For now Ill run the ea81 mounts. If they dont hold up Ill swap to the ea82.

Got it ready for the new motor and 5-speed

Thanks

Any plans for ea81 headers? Id love one:burnout:

I hope it stays relatively clean too. The only cork gaskets used in this build are the valve cover gaskets. And those were coated with UltraGrey prior to installing. Felpro perma-torque headgaskets. No oil pan seal, and all other seals are Subaru. Front main, rear main, brand new oil pump, brand new water pump, etc... It is still a Subaru though Lots more done this evening. Mostly elbow-grease.... I finished adjusting the hydro valves, installed spark plugs and wires. I got the trans wiring figured out and finished. New Empi axles installed, and front end assembled... Just have castle nut pins to install. The motor will be installed with the trans attached, so the car got a lift. Safe lift. I refuse to be under a car during something like a motor install using jack stands. Luckily I have a gantry crane, so I can hoist the motor very high to make it work. And the rest of the evening was spent cleaning. Who else details fire walls???? I thought this was a cool pic too.

http://www.fordofkirkland.com/autocheck.aspx?vin=1G1YY26U975116742

Its still working. Just checked it.

If you go air, sanders get REAL cheap :cool: A DA on 8CFM works great. And for paint stripping Ive gone to wire wheels and flap discs on an angle grinder.

So I was going to just clean things up on the front suspension, but I found one bad ball joint, so I attacked it full force. Both sides were torn down. Fresh ball joints, fresh (sealed) wheel bearings (still waiting on outer seals), and everything stripped down and repainted. Subframe got a fresh coat too. Might as well... And since Im still waiting on wheel seals, I turned back to the motor. I installed a cheap pressure gauge to watch as I primed the oil system for the first time. Then I filled her up with some fresh oil. This is a hydro-motor, and I shaved the heads, so I loosened the rocker arms 1-turn, then put the valve covers on. And with the starter wired up to the battery on the bench, the motor was cranked over for the first time. After three 10-second intervals of cranking the starter, oil pressure jumped to 75PSI Removed the valve covers and all rockers were tight. Lifters are doing their job :cool:

Its all good. Have fun at the market. This is a great time of the year to get squash! Im boycotting the market for a bit.... bunch of dog nazis:Flame:

Youre welcome to come Ill even make you a burger to go with your beer. .... I guess nobody is interested??

FYI, I didnt get pads with mine. I prefer to buy the pads I want. Interesting note though, with mine anyways.... is that the new e-brake cam boot on the caliper is stamped "made in USA"

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=127525 Run it yourself