Idasho

Im planning on dropping the fresh motor and trans in my GL this weekend. Ive got a couple of people interested in helping already, but I figured it might be a great chance for a meet and greet. :cool: Any interest? It would be in Moscow, ID. Ive got plenty of parking, and a shop full of tools. Im sure I could arrange some beer too

Im running two Beck-Arnley re-mans from Rockauto right now. Ive put about 30k on them now, without any problems.

I just did the ball joints on my '84. They were original as far as I can tell. And even without any corrosion, it wasnt exactly fun. Removing it from the control arm wasnt an issue. Over the years the ball joint had become pretty frozen in the knuckle. About 20 minutes per side in the vise beating on them. First use a cold shisel to try to open the pinch housing, then a chisel between the ball joint lip and the knuckle. Eventually they cam out.

Thats correct. The front-rear adjustment is done via the back drums. The front discs are self-adjusting. The adjustment comes with setting the play between the drum and the brake shoe. Adjusted out the rear brakes work less, engaging later, tighten the gap between shoe and drum and the rears do more, engaging sooner. Ill also say that it can be VERY dangerous to put rear discs (which are self-adjusting) on a rig without the use of a proportioning valve. Engaging the rears too early is a bad, bad thing. Front brakes are designed to do a majority of the braking.

why not just a small 12V heater? It wont take too much to heat up such a small space. I would avoid tapping into the existing cooling system for a heat source, simply do to complexity, and added potential to break a hose and toast the motor.

Cool ride:burnout: Welcome!

Well, it seems that if you leave a freshly built EA81 and a dual range 5-speed together long enough they... uh... mate Its starting to look like I know whats going on Next up is to fill the crank case with oil and crank her over using the starter. Once the hydro-lifters are primed, I can go about double checking valve clearances, and we might see this engine go into the car... maybe....

Thanks for the props guys. Im enjoying this build too Wallaby, PM me about the trans. Engine and trans were primed with a metal etching primer and painted with Duplicolor engine paint. Color is "Cast Coat Aluminum" All Bronze items were painted with Duplicolor wheel paint. Color is "bronze" :-p Valve covers and air cleaner painted using Rustoleum Painters Touch Color is "Spa Blue"

Not with a lift. IIRC, the only reason a custom crossmember would be needed in a non-lifted rig is to drop the trans enough to clear the tunnel.

There we go. Now we know that the batteries are good, and we can look elsewhere. Start double and triple checking connections, and focus on GROUNDS. And have you checked fuses? (obvious I know, but have to ask) Most cars have a primary ground under the dash. Look for it.

Nope, thats not it. Both the 4-speed and the 5-speed mounts are 17.5" from the face of the bellhousing. And for the record, the 5-speed is considerably SHORTER than the 4-speed

That "click-click-click-click" is a relay wiggin out due to low voltage. Grab a multimeter and verify battery voltage at rest, and as you are trying to crank it over.

You need an actual flywheel machine to turn stepped flywheels like a subaru flywheel. That said, you can probably turn rotors on the same machine. here is my newly turned ea81 flywheel. Just ignore the ground step. This was done to retrofit an ea82 clutch. But to pay attention to the pattern created by the machine.

Well, that would be a problem! You have been overfilling the thing like crazy! Im going to bump this up... as it would help us both. Im in a similar pickle. I have a 4-speed dipstick and 5-speed trans. 81EA81, would you be kind enough to show the hash marks on that 5-speed dipstick? I need to lengthen my 4-speed dipstick, and would like to know where the level indicators are. Thanks!!

shoot, they sure are! Just looked over some old photos of mine, and you are correct:burnout:

5-speed swap has begun At least the back seat gets used for something! bye-bye 4-speed Hello empty bay. And working out trans cross-member mounts. Looks as if the ea81 mounts DO WORK, but I think Ill push to the ea82 mounts simply because they are superior. A bit of fab work to do...

Head gasket is on wrong Head looks normal, from what I can tell.

When it comes to trans mounts and the crossmember, I thought I read time and time again that you have to fabricate mounts? I realize that the ea82 mounts are superior, but it seems that the ea81 4-speed mounts work just fine. With the only exception being youd have to drill one more hole for the bracket to match the trans The drivers side bolts up 100% Passenger side needs one hole drilled to make things work.

Those are HOT :cool: great price too.

Getting close... :cool:

Thanks. We'll get there Crappy about the plug.... I guess it will go on the "shelf of mystery" in the shop. Random stuff that I just dont dare toss

Lots of assembly today, and the old motor was finally pulled. I needed the flywheel bolts Got the new flywheel and clutch installed. 100% new coolant/heater/radiator hoses. Intake and carb installed. Dizzy and wires installed and timed by eye. And Im still on the look out for a plug for the bellhousing. A forum member dropped on the mail for me (fast and cheap), but it is the wrong one. Dont know what this one goes too... Its in great shape! So if anyone has one, PLEASE let me know.

interesting history, thats for sure. Good luck with this project. That motor looks to be a bit of a basket-case Ill be watching this thread

damn... too late. I kept it, just bolted the intake mani back down. All new hoses and clamps though. If it fails, If it even fails, Ill pitch it. Thanks

Hey guys, wondering if you could help me out. Im replacing all of the coolant/heater lines on my EA81, and Im stuck wondering what this thing is... And if I can run without it. Thanks for any help.