Idasho

Got a bit more done this afternoon. The Subaru is officially down for service. Lots of stuff getting transferred from the old motor to the new. Not before being hit with bronze though Idler bearings were also torn down and repacked with synthetic grease. Its getting close! :cool:

excellent link! Thanks for posting!

I think we need to keep these rust free examples AWAY from the midwest Everything just rusts away there....

If it cooled down once you started rolling, then you have a lack of airflow through the radiator when stopped. Simple as that. Just because the fans were working when you got to where you were going tells me that it is intermittent. That tells me that it electrical. Overheating due to a bad radiator isnt intermittent. Nor is overheating due to a bad water pump of coolant blockage.

Just sounds like the fan(s) did not kick on.

Awesome. Thanks Tom. Let me know what you want and how much to ship. Do you take paypal?

Oh, Im also on the hunt for a couple of items. Please let me know if you have something I can use... Im looking for a flywheel inspection plug to fit this EA81 bellhousing... As well as a good clutch fork seal for this 5-speed dual range. Thanks for any help.

Thanks! Small update for today. Im getting very close to being ready... To make things stupid simple for my new Oil PSI/Temp gauge, an oil filter spacer was used. Then both sending units were installed and routed. The crank pulley was painted up too. Oil filler and dipstick tubes cleaned up, painted, and installed. Some bronze love And one other decent hurdle was overcome. A bit of fabrication was needed to alter the dizzy hold-down bracket. Something I missed in the tear-down, the original bracket bolt had been broken off in the block. And it looked like somebody had tried and failed to repair it. It was a bit of a mess. So instead of trying to drill a hole in my brand new motor, I opted to bolt it down using another location. The threaded boss that I used isnt on the EA81 that I have in my GL Must be a hydro-block thing... Anyhow, I fixed it up by welding a bit of steel to the original bracket to reach the new threaded boss. Then some more bronze

Pimp GL dude :cool: I normally dont like graphics, but those look right at home.

Good luck. Ive been through this, time and time again, and the resulting fix was a Weber swap. I while back I started a similar thread, and a few posts down I posted links to other forum threads that had some info... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=118017 Not much to go on when you have no idea how to test each and every component toed to the mess of vac lines

Ill be waiting. Seriously, dont use a gasket. Even the dealer lead mechanic here in town recommends not using a gasket.

Dont bother with an oil pan gasket. Youll never get it to seal properly. Red Fuji bond or Toyota oil-pan gasket maker.

It worked out really well, and we have used it for 5 camp trips and 2 backpacking trips so far. Normally head out after work on friday, make it to the trail head that night and sleep in the car. Hit the trail early the next morning. The last few even included bringing the hound dog. We pack gear into the foot-well area of the front passenger seat and his bed works there. Happy camper. We also cook our dinner on the motor on the drive in. Toss a can of soup or chili on the motor 50 miles or so before you get there and youve got dinner ready to go. :cool:

The platform was painted to match the interior, then epoxy-coated. As the epoxy dried, I backrolled it for textured finish, and once dry I hit it with some 600 grit sandpaper to de-gloss it a bit. From inside the cab, seat folded down. Rear section folds up. The soft bag on the left is my tool kit. ammo cans currently have 90% of the cooking essentials. The rest of the space will be occupied by sleeping gear. Rear seat folded up. And what it looks like when peeking through the side windows... Obviously when fully packed with gear this space will have clothing and food related stuff. So far Im really happy with the way things pack into this platform. Anything shorter than a week, and I have pretty much eliminated the need to use the roof rack and basket all together. For me thats a HUGE benefit, as highway MPG takes a pretty good hit when using the rack and basket. Since finishing it I have installed some tie downs, it works fantastic

The sleeping platform.... One of my primary goals was to keep the rear seats usable without removing the entire unit. I started with two sheets of 5x5 1/2" thick Baltic Birch plywood. This is normally used for building cabinets. A lightweight, rigid, and easy to work plywood. The base built. Notice the back seat is this upright. The mid-section. This thing is a bit custom Rear section in. Though it is easily removable, this is what will remain in the car. The rear seat is still 100% functional. The rear section is also hinged to access the small spaces left and right of the box. Seat folded forward, now the front section is in. And sleeping space is now obvious. Small, but it is there! The platform will fit both the wife and I. With heads towards the back window, stretched all the way out my feet will hang over the front a bit (Im 6' tall) Details on cuts. I had to make cuts to allow the use of the door handles. That's important! The front section rests on the back seat bottom. Details under the front section. here you can see the aluminum angle used for stiffeners in the mid-section, aluminum plates the front section rests on, and the steel plate that the front section rests, and pins to. For long term usage, I will bolt this section. Short term will be some sort of pin or bolt/wingnut setup. For fitment purposes only, I used a couple of roofing nails. And where Im at right now. The unit is out of the car for paint.

Thanks for the props! Sure thing about the platform, Ill post some more pics of it.... I have them hosted already. BRB

Pilot bearing can be tapped on with a hammer and the appropriate driver. I normally use a socket. The flywheel flange had a pretty healthy groove worn in it, so it got a speedi-sleeve. pics here...

Thanks for the info on those blocks. Seems like Ill have to swap them over when I do my engine swap. Motor Ive got ready to go in doesnt have them...

Then I drug the motor out once again, installed the rear main seal, and installed a new front main. I had installed a felpro front main, but didnt like how it fit. It was TOO tight, and deformed as it went in. So new OEM front and rear mains were installed. New rear main with speedi-sleeve installed Pilot bearing ready to be installed. Now I just need to find those damn flywheel bolts... seem to have run off.... Oh, and can anyone tell me how deep the pilot bearing must be installed? Flush with the clutch side I assume?

Driveshaft carnage.... Removing the original non-serviceable U-joints is a pain. Dremel and a few grinding drums is pretty much required. And newly rebuild driveline. No rust on it, so all I did was sand it lightly, prep, and give it a quick re-paint. Made in USA joints from carquest, come with zerk fittings. Seem like nice joints

To an extent, yes. You can only machine so much off of the face of the flywheel though, until you find the minimum thickness per MFG spec. Too thin and you will have a potential to warm/crack the flywheel. You've got the idea though. But normally you DECREASE the step, in order to increase the pressure plate clamp load. SO you machine the face first, then machine the step until you get to your desired height.

Only o-rings that are anywhere near that small are used on the oil pump.

Here are a couple of my pics for reference. Ones Ive already got uploaded, so they are not the best...

Interesting. While rounding up parts for my motor swap, I asked my parts guy at subaru about those blocks. Not all EA81s came with them. Only ones that meet "49-state" emissions. He also said that the heads for both were the same part numbers, as were the y-pipes. You SURE you cannot run a EA81 y-pipe without them?

.815 is only for the turbo EA82 from what I recall. Youll have to do some digging, but I believe the non-turbo EA81 4x4 spec's .900" for a step. And yes, a good shop will be able to tell you what the specified step is, based upon make and model.