Idasho

Entry level typically starts out on the clock, and is paid by the hour. So Id investigate local hourly wages in your area. Everywhere is different. Dont be surprised when you find out just low low it is.

I wouldnt bother with the motor you have, if it has indeed ran without oil for any real distance. Cylinder wear will be significant. Find a junkyard motor to install, or if you want to go full-monte, find a junkyard motor to rebuild.

And the front bumper guards and fog lamps were removed in favor of a push bar and pencil beam off road lights I also went junkyard shopping again, and found a matching tire on a matching rim, to work as a full-size spare! Modified hold down.

Next up was a small front lift.

And since the Weber aircleaner is an absolute joke, I retrofitted the factory air-box tot he weber.

And soon enough, it was time for a road trip down to CA to visit family. Unfortunately, this is also the trip that resulted in a tow back to Idaho.... The Hitachi carb killed the vacation, so it had to go. Bring on Weber.

Springtime brought a wash, wax, and vac Then back into the shop for a rear cargo stowage box and sleeping platform. Then of course, we had to go camping!

Once back together, the Little RU took us on a light snow wheeling trip to close out 2010 and welcome 2011! And it did great! And soon after the Little RU made a successful trip to the slopes with a TON of gear and peeps

After everything was back together I found that my primary leak was actually very fresh, very clean gear oil. So the trans was removed and torn down to replace the infamous input shaft seal. I also spotted another leak. Lucky me, the PO overtorqued the case bolts Guess Ill let that one leak for a while!

About two months later I find myself with a whole weekend to my own. X-mas No company in town, wife has her own thing going on, so I retreat into my shop and get some work done. My first ever Subaru motor pull. I was determined to stop the leaks. New seals installed, new trans mounts, rebuilt oil pump, etc.,,

Just getting into November, and knowing that our winter snowfall is VERY close, the first order of business was to fit the Subaru with proper snow tires. The car was running great and quite honestly had very few needs to sustain one winter. The e-brakes were sticking and the motor was a leaker. Both things I could worry about later. At this point, we needed a winter duty car. One of the main reasons I purchased it! So I fitted the car with some studded Hancook Zovac tires on some junkyard steel wheels. Then proceeded to check out the 4wd. Had to make sure it worked!

I guess I should join the ranks and post a "members Rides" thread of my own. November 6th 2010 marked a very special day for the automobile stables at my place. It was the day I brought home my very first Subaru. Currently going by the name "Little RU", this is the story of my 1984 Subaru GL Wagon. I was surfing Spokane Craigslist that evening, casually looking at 8-10 year old Impreza wagons and legacy wagons. Then I came across this one.... Not very good photos, but it was very clear that it was pretty clean, and low mileage (130k) It was already getting late, but I called on it anyways. Then I made the drive up to Spokane that night, looked the car over in a Safeway parking lot, and drove her home. And the rest... as they say, is history! As she looked when I brought her home. more to come...

Not much gain to be made, if any. All you are doing is making for a hotter spark. Thats assuming the factory coil isnt providing a hot enough spark as it is. To get the most gain out of it, you will need to open up the gap on the plugs as well.

time for a weber swap

So it looks like the front INNERS are longer boots, and Ive read that it is a good idea to use the front inners for both inner and outer on the front. What about the rear? Do the rear share the same size joints and axle shafts? Can you/should you use the front inners on the rear axles too? Thanks:headbang:

Bump it up. Still working :cool:

Hows this? Only 3 vac lines. small one to heater box, small one to dizzy, and large one to brake booster. No egr, no air injection, etc...

Yep, like I said, the alt isnt your problem. Sound like you are on the right track though. You have some tuning to sort out to keep the idle high enough. And really, 13V at idle with accessory load on it is just fine. Most vehicle spec a minimum of 13.5 - 14.5 at idle with NO load. And normally optimum voltage output is read at 2k+rpms That said, most rigs have an idle bump to take into consideration heavy electrical loads, to maintain proper charging voltage and keep the engine from stalling at idle.

Your problem isnt the alt. Its the drop in RPM. Either something like your heater fan is on its way out and is drawing too many amps, or you simply need to bump the idle up a bit.

Unless you are running some serious lighting, a smaller pulley is not needed. A/C, Fans on high, high beams, and 200watts of off road lights on mine, and it doesnt faze it at idle.

Large end goes to the aircleaner port . Smaller hose goes to the PCV Valve.

That puts driveline losses at about 25%, which seems reasonable to me for a 4wd

A core is a rebuildable unit. If you buy an engine and there is a core charge, returning your worn out engine will result in the refund of the core charge. "no core" simply means that you do not get charged a core charge.

Getting the engine to fire and idle in the cold isnt the issue. Using the factory air-cleaner aids in bringing the engine to operating temp faster, and prevents carb icing.

oops... Yes, that is a VERY valid point. This GL has a 2 1/2" lift. This mod would be tough to perform on a car without a lift. The weber carb is much taller than the stock carb due the manifold adapter.