Idasho

you have to know what you are looking at. I only have 3 vacuum lines on my motor. One to the distributor One to the pass side firewall that goes to the heater One to the brake booster I would have one more if I chose to keep the EGR. But I ditched that too. Find those, and keep 'em. All the other vacuum hoses can go. Just be sure to cap the ports you are unplugging on the manifold

Another common symptom is a "drumming" Mine did just this, for 5-10 minutes every time you got into the car int he morning. After 5-10 minutes, the noise would stop. But sooner or later, the noise didnt stop, and it changed as I used the brakes. Quite often the noise would seem to go away when I used the brakes. Better yet, the hub showed NO strange play, when checking for play by wiggling the tire. Regardless, when I pulled the rear bearings out, there was some pretty nasty gouging in the bearings themselves, and some scoring on the races.

Good luck getting the rear bearing apart. I just did them on my RUST FREE '84 GL. Mine went to hell from sitting for 14 years. A bit of moisture trapped in there caused all kinds of bearing and race damage. Did not have a pin socket. Wish I had, but even on this rust free example, those rings did NOT want to come out. DUH!!

Very cool! I have thought about the same thing. Right now Im using a custon sleeping platform for mine. Its a bit snug, but one huge benefit it the massive cargo stowage potential. http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/expoRU06.jpg http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/expoRU12.jpg Its even color matched to the interior, so its not so obvious, even without window tint. http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/expoRU16.jpg

There is a small ground from the spare tire shelf to the trans. Besides that, I think all other grounds from the motor to chassis are built into the harness. Because of this, I have installed a large ground straight from the alt. bracket to the strut tower.

i think it looks way better than that chinsy POS filter that comes with the weber. And with as clean as my GL is, I like having the ability to keep it looking OEM. Not terribly difficult. A few more pics here http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/RUweber12.jpg http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/RUweber15.jpg http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/RUweber16.jpg http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/RU/RUweber20.jpg As well as a vid...

*ea81 *because the filters available for that carb are CRAP. Its very hard to beat the filtration of the much larger, stock paper filter. It also lets me utilize the exhaust heat stove for cold weather operation.

I ditched the weber/empi style filter all-together. I retrofitted the factory airbox to the weber

So if Im having the valve seats ground, should I buy new valves? I dont have ea82 parts at my disposal, and would rather keep this all ea81. Thanks for the tip on the heli coil. :cool:

Ive got a full ea81 rebuild in the near future. Mike (lyter1983) was nice enough to sell me a good core to start with. A good hydro long block that I intend to tear down. It should be in the mail this week. The motor is said to have about 180k miles. The motor will be torn all the way down for rod and main bearings, heads will receive a full port and polish, valves get a nice 5 angle cut, and I intend to have the heads shaved .020 to bump the compression a bit. Obviously it will get a fresh set of rings, and a full Fel-pro gasket set will be thrown at it. Should be fun My final intention is to build a good solid runner, that I dont have to fiddle with for 150k+ So replacing EVERYTHING is my intention. Ive rebuilt my share of motors, but being fairly new to the Subaru scene, this will be my first subaru rebuild. But when it comes to things like valves. guides, valve springs, and keepers, is it best to just replace them all? I know that with many motors, things like valve springs simply do not wear out. And Ive heard the the EA81 is pretty easy on guides. I just dont want to be replacing things for no reason. Thanks for any help

If your hitachi's electric choke circuit is still functional, go with the electric choke. Its as simple as extending one wire, and crimping one connector. They the Weber choke functions like stock. No need to run a manual cable, and the choke is activated at the push of the pedal. Your parts list looks good. Though I dont know for certain if that is the correct adapter, and personally I think the weber air cleaners are garbage.

The problem is not related to a healthy diet:rolleyes: Gasoline, and gas vapors are not only combustible, but explosive. Its no surprise that freight companies would try to avoid shipping such things. Or at least make it difficult enough to make it less worth shipping such things.

Yeah, I dont think Id touch it cosmetically. Build her up to make a great daily driver, and run it!

In the rear, yes. Not in the front though. Camber goes all to hell. This is with 2.5" of lift in the front (strut blocks and subframe blocks) + torsion bar cranked up all the way in the rear. Much more clearance between the ground and body panels, but alignment is dead on.

EA82 coil overs + torsion bar = VERY stiff. I dont see you having any problems. Ive hauled 800lbs+ in my '84 GL (cranked up torsion bar only) long distances without any problems.

Have you checked to see if Car-part.com can locate one close to you? Amaizing sometime what they can find!

Patina is great, but from what Ive seen, if then entire body has natural patina, the car is such a rust bucket that it is about to fall apart. Rust bucket body on a chassis rat rod okay, but a unibody? That just sounds dangerous. I would advise to find a middle ground between rat rod and full resto. Make it a solid daily driver, and enjoy it. Just because you are fixing things doesnt mean you have to hide the age and history of it.

They are thresholds for the back hatch. They go left and right of the hatch latch

A weber is an instant performance upgrade. Peak hp and torque remain about the same, but average torque across the rpm range is vastly greater than stock.

OE should be black dude.... Looks good though

in my experience, it quite often isnt the carb that introduces the near impossible to diagnose problems that always pop up on these old cars. It is one of the any devises tied to the carb, and the silly vacuum system the carb uses to do its job. Rebuilding the carb wont fix that. And good luck finding ANY info as to how to diagnose the vacuum system on them. It simply isnt worth it from a reliability standpoint to bother with the factory carb and crap attached to it. A weber is simple, inexpensive, easy to tune, and it works. Reliability and driveability is much improved.

Unless it was swapped, it doesnt have a 5-speed

Take a look at the underside of that rotor. An actual OEM (or proper OEM replacement) rotor has TWO spring steel inserts (one of them the contact) where it mounts to the dizzy shaft. I ran into this a while back, when I was having trouble keeping consistent timing. The ones with just one insert does not fit tight enough onto the dizzy, and allows a good deal of play.

Very cool! Lots of history there for certain. I do feel like I need a tetnis shot just looking at it though Just squint a bit.... and you can see how sh'ed clean up The dual fans are on my '84 GL as well. It has the same outboard mounted AC too.