Idasho

What year is it? The original radiator on my '84 Gl has the mounts built into the radiator itself. It bolts to the radiator support through those holes with rubber grommets.

It is doable. If the upper strut mounts are pushed INWARD far enough you can do it without any major alignment issues. Just make certain you do not bind the coil springs on the strut towers. Doing this will also effectively narrow the track width of the front tires a bit too. So if you had any inner fender rubbing issues before, it may get worse (unless the lift is great enough to fix that problem) That said, your CV joints will hate you if you do not drop the subframe with the struts.

The parts guy at my dealer is awesome. Its the techs that scare me

I took my 'GL into the dealer to fix a mystery oil leak. The service guy said that they had one guy that knew the "old models". We got it up on the lift and he, two other techs, and the service manager all agreed that it was the oil pan seal leaking (one i had JUST replaced). So I let them have a go. Long story short, it still leaked when I picked it up. I buy all of my parts there, and try to support them best I can, but I dont take my car in there for work done. I doubt ANY of the techs there have even touched a carb before. The manager at the dealer here in town asked me if Id let them show it on the showroom floor last winter.... I declined the offer/request. I needed the car!

You are more than welcome to use a shot of my GL. Hardly a serious off-roader, but it does have a lift and a very simple custom bumper. 2" front lift, rear torsion bar cranked up. And my home-brewed custom bull-bar.

Just plug the hole if you dont want it. All that is is a thermo-vac valve. It controls airflow from one port to the other based upon temp.

Nope. I have the digi-dash. All it has is an idiot lamp.

the curb weight of an SVX is NOT over 4k lbs. Unless he had 500+ lbs of junk in it....

So let me guess... Somebody was stupid enough to try to tow a 3k lb car on a 2k lb with a Toyota mini truck???

Very nice!! I like the passenger mirror delete

That brat looks great! As mentioned, it sound to me like you are talking about typical torque binding of the 4wd system. Id jump on that brat in a heartbeat. BTW, where are you located?

Thanks! It was nice to do something to this little car that didnt require getting oily and greasy

I got my new panel installed. AUX in, off road lamp switch, and oil PSI gauge

No cooling system to worry about though. Thats a huge space saver.

Yeah, that one was up on ebay. Less than 15k miles if I remember correctly.

Well, the aux-in aspect of this little project is DONE! The off road lights are hooked up to that switch now too. I still have to install the sending unit for the oil PSI gauge, but everything else is finished up. A bit of solder and heat shrink.... With the exception of the lead from the gauge to the sending unit, and the switch to the off road lights, everything used the OEM connectors. I even used the ash tray light pigtail for 12v and ground to the off road light switch Gauge turns on at key-on, and you can change the backlight color. I chose it for the green to go with the green digidash. Off road light switch gets power when clearance lights are turned on. here are some pics. And finally... One more note worth mentioning... This style head unit that does NOT have a 5-pin DIN pigtail coming out of the back of the head unit is a VERY tight fit once you plug that cable in. I had to massage that cable end pretty good to get it to fit. It was hitting the air box. I did get it to fit, but it still hits. The head units with 5-pin DIN pigtails should not have this problem.

Awesome find!!

looking at the connector. I think.... It really doesnt matter though. Audio ground is on top, in the middle, and L and R audio + are simple to the left and right of the ground.

Sure, pin out for the headunit side of the DIN is: From left to right White - Black - Blue - Yellow - Red Black = left Blue = ground Yellow = right White and red where what I thought would need to be connected to mute the am/fm input. But so far they are 100% not needed in my case.

Getting there... Still have a decent amount of wiring to do. With luck it will all look OEM;)

hehe Hopefully Ill have time this weekend to finish it up. Winter treads going on the GL right now. Bring on the SNOW!!

UPDATE. It works! A silly note though.... it seems that the switch is 100% NOT needed. At least on the two head units I have. When I plug my IPhone into the new 3.5mm jack, the radio signal cuts off 90+% there is still a VERY slight signal, but with the IPhone volume up more than 50%, and head unit volume adjusted accordingly, you cannot hear it at all, even when there is no music. So I snipped the leads to that switch, and now I need to find something to control with that switch! Maybe my off road lights.... I dunno. but the simple 5-pin DIN to headphone connection works 100%. Ive got the console out of the car now, and just need to get the mounting figured out for the gauge panel.

Nope, it is still working. Some dealers are set up for inventory only. You have to find one that isnt. I JUST ran one again using And it worked fine.

Yep! I just used it on all of my rigs. And printed the results out for each one of their files. Fun reading for if you have a rig with many owners.

This might be a re-post, but since VIN is too short for the forum search engine, I gave up looking to see if it had been posted already. First, go to GOOGLE. And search using the following: Then select And tale a look at your results. keep an eye out for any results that start with some sort of car dealer site. Like the following: Click on it. then look at the address bar in your browser. The end of that address SHOULD be some random VIN. Now all you have to do is replace that VIN with your own, and press enter. DONE!! Happy VIN searching