Idasho

I should also note that this isnt 100% tested just yet! So no promises. Not just yet!! But according to my calculations..........

here we go... I hope everyone likes pictures Connectors described The one we are after Then you need to find a 5-pin din cable with a MALE end on it. And cut it up to connect to the 3.5mm headphone jack and switch. And mounted to the panel that will hold it all together. This panel is designed to fit over the factory ash tray (I dont smoke), and will also hold an oil pressure gauge. The switch is one I had laying around in my electrical tool box. Though I think Ill keep it. The green will go great with the green digital dash and green oil psi gauge.

I agree 100% The reception on these old units is so much better that the newer stuff.

Yep. The connector is a 5-pin DIN ground left + right + and TWO leads that when connected mute the AM/FM preamp input. 5 total, unless I counted wrong And I just about have the panel done for it. I should have it installed and up and running this weekend.

Ive been working on this. Oil PSI gauge and ipod Aux-in/switch panel for my '84GL It will take the place of the factory ash-tray. Fabricated from stainless steel. Just need to work on the mounting tabs, then paint. It will be matte black to blend with the interior better.

Well that sure looks YUMMY!

No worries. That is a very common misconception.

Thanks for all the gibberish monstaru. All that really had has to be said, is what I said to begin with... Key word for the day? MASS

You need to go back to school. Shouldnt you have learned this in what, junior high? Basic physics. A solid rod of diameter X will ALWAYS be stronger than a tube of diameter X, given both are constructed of the same material. What you THINK you are talking about is a pipe of WEIGHT x will be stronger than a solid rod of WEIGHT x. bottom line, if the materials and the diameter remain the same, a solid rod will ALWAYS be stronger in every way possible. Only downside is additional weight. And no, this car cannot do 100mph. It has seen 85 though.

Are you honestly doubting the strength of 2" solid chromoly?? On a 2500lb Subaru??? It doesnt matter dude. I could run this car into a brick wall at 100mph and there wouldnt be a scratch, let alone a bend in that solid chromoly bar. The rest of the car however, wouldnt have a straight body panel on it.

Personally, I dont like the large front end protectors. Ive always liked bull-bars on most rigs. So long as they LOOK somewhat OEM. Check out my thread here for a very simple bull-bar style bumper. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125390

Its sturdy enough to use as a jack point. So, yes.

You mean this one?? http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/2657910178.html

I tore apart my spare head unit this evening. No way I will be doing what I thought I was. The volume control is buried into the unit, and you literally have to tear the entire thing apart to get to it. No fun at all. You know i did read this.... but I figured my GL wouldnt have it. Well, it does. And the spare am/fm radio I picked up does as well. And Ive figured out the wiring. I just need to pick up the proper connector and test it out 7 pins. One L, one R, one GROUND, and two that must be tied together to kill the radio input. Thanks for the suggestion!

Bring on the Astral Gold Metallic

There really isnt too much to it. Ive done this with a few shaft style (and newer) radios over the years. You tap into both L and R pre-amp outputs just before the volume control, and use a closed circuit panel mount headphone jack. When your MP3 player is not plugged in the radio functions normally. The closed circuit jack passes the pre-amp outputs from the am/fm board to the volume control. When you plug the MP3 player in, the closed circuit jack interrupts the am/fm signal, and completes the circuit from the MP3 line out to the volume control. Short version: When you plug it in, the AM/FM signal shuts off, and the AUX (MP3) signal turns on. This way the volume control, tone, balance, fade, all work like normal. All you are doing is changing the input source signal.... pre-amp and pre-volume. Any more questions?

Guys, I already have this worked out. It is tapped into the pre-amp output just before the volume knob. And no switch is needed using the correct headphone jack.

No, while I could so such a retrofit to a tape deck, this is specific to the am/fm radio. No tape deck. Crazyeights, I have done searching. Nothing conclusive. There is a few mentions of such a modification being possible, but never actual claims it has been done.

Every now and again I find something that I HAVE to modify. The shaft style am/fm radio in my 1984 GL is one of them. I love the radio. Its OEM, the reception is fantastic, and the controls are simple and work. But there isnt ANY decent way to connect my Iphone for tunes when radio simply doesnt cut it. FM transmitters, hard wired or wireless are all junk. And the last thing I would do to this car is cut up the factory dash to fit a newer radio, IF I could even find one with a shallow case to fit. So... The modification for these old radios is fairly straight forward. But it certainly requires you to know what you are doing, and how to solder sensitive components. But the bottom line is that it would provide a pre-amp AUX input to these old radios. A 3.5mm headphone jack to connect whatever. All without loosing the functionality or looks of the OEM radio. Would any of you be interested in such a service?

Just imagine how much better that brumby would have done with a welded rear Oh, and I hate those guys for their off-road tire availability. I think we need to arrange an over-sea shipping container full of tires for all of us here in the USA

Doesnt that switch use the radiator as a ground? Using too much tape could isolate the switch from the radiator. Tape also introduces other potential problems. I always use teflon thread sealant (liquid)

The clutch should be fine.

Do, it was the disc?

Disc in backwards maybe? Dont fret, not everything goes as planned. Hell, Ive had the motor out of my pristine GL FIVE times hunting for leaks.... and it still leaks

Thanks for the response! According to my shop manual it uses fixed spacers and shims. So if I mark the location of the nut prior to removal, and lock9tite it back in the same location after replacing the seal everything should be good to go?