Idasho

Ive always got Pandora, Blues Guitar Masters playing. Helps keep my sanity

Any help here? I did find the seal. Dealer had one in stock, $16

Are you talking about the throwout bearing? No matter, there is nothing within the bellhousing that needs to be fooled with when yanking the motor. Unless Im totally not understanding the question

Does the car have AC? The aux fan should kick on when the climate control is set to Defrost or when using the AC

So Ive got a leaker. The front oil seal on the rear diff is loosing gear oil. Just enough to worry me, and to splash gear oil onto the exhaust pipe. Makes for a wonderful odor:D Question though. My shop manual doesnt cover replacement of this seal. I have the exploded diagram, but no info. Does this pinion use a "self locking" one-time-use nut, and what torque values must it be set to on reassembly? Thanks for any help!

Quickest solution I see is this... shorten the rear lift blocks, and lower the diff. Or better yet, if you are willing to get a bit more creative... Rotate the entire torsion bar housing using custom blocks, then mount the diff to the mustache bar level. This will retain the location of the diff, but will move the torsion bar out of the way. It may do some REALLY weird things to handling however.

As much as I always want to keep things original, the Hitachi is nothing but garbage in my book. Instead of chasing your own rump roast in circles, I would (and did) just drop the coin on a Weber carb. End of problems. Let me know if you need any help or need any work done. Im right up the hill in Moscow.

If you swap the torsion bar for EA82 coils you could cut that adjuster and housing away. Though I like the simplicity and reliability of the torsion bar. is it not possible to push the T-case further forward to gain the needed clearance? How about dropping the diff a bit?

Giant, Im in town. Hopefully through winter. Let me know if you still need help with that hood.

The coolant level hasnt moved in 8k miles. (only exception being this one event) There is no bubble. Radiator was filled with engine running.

I drove it again this weekend. 200+ miles without problems. Temp stayed midway within NORMAL. Outside temp is down to mid 80's, and no serious grades to pull. At least not 7+% ones that are 7+ miles long OEM cap. Flushed less than 10k miles ago. Only way I can fill the system, at the radiator cap neck. I plan to install an overflow bottle. The car has been de-emmisioned, so there is a ton of room where the charcoal canister used to be. No bubbles. Heat is marginal. But every time I flush the heater core more chunks come out. The car needs a radiator and heater core. Both fans are working as they should. Primary fan kicks on at 3/4 temp, turns off when the temp works down. AC fan kicks on with the AC. OEM T-stat

My '84 with the digital dash has one. And I use it all the time. I run it till the low fuel light trips on, then refuel.

The cap is new.

Thanks for the responses guys. The previous owner had replaced the headgaskets before I purchased it. Ive put more than 8k miles on it now, and the motor doesnt burn any coolant that I can tell. Level never goes down, and no smoke out the back (exhaust is catless too). I have plenty of heat when the heater is on. And running the heater on the flats before the next serious grade managed to bring the temps down pretty well. This is the first real test Ive put this little motor to. As mentioned, Whitebird is no joke. It is quite the test even for much newer vehicles during the summer. Ill toss a new radiator at it. They are cheap enough. Hopefully that does it. And after looking at new radiators online Im thinking that this radiator might be original. It doesnt have the automatic trans cooling lines. Seems that all I can find online for replacement are universal for manual and automatic trans rigs.

He asked for a ea81 AC belt number. So I gave him a number. From his first post the car came with AC, but it simply didnt have a belt. As for a clutch alignment tool, you really dont need one. Eyeball it, but do not torque the pressure plate down all the way, then mate the motor to the trans, THEN tighten the pressure plate down through the starter hole.

1984 GL new OE water pump, new OEM T-stat, good hoses, dual fans (A/C), and everything seems to be working as it should. The previous owner claimed that the radiator was just replaced, and it looks to be new. I thought everything was fine until a recent trip. For those in the PNW that are familiar with highway 95 down through Idaho, the car started to overheat on Whitebird pass Monday afternoon. We were loaded down (3 adults plus a good amount of gear), it was hot (95 degrees), heater was on full blast, and I was taking it slow and easy (2nd gear @ 30mph). But the temps just kept on rising. It finally hit the red and I pulled off. The radiator cap popped and it puked about a qt of coolant. So we let the car cool down long enough to remove the cap to top the coolant off. I might just be asking too much from the little car, but I dont know. Whitebird pass is no joke of a grade during the summer, but I would like to make it POSSIBLE to pull it without the fear of cooking the engine. Thoughts? Thanks for any help.

GATES Part # 5740 It is a 1/2 x 54" V-belt. Rockauto has 4 brands of the same belt. Goodyear, ACdelco, Gates, and Dayco

If you did not touch them you are in luck. But you will need to remove them to install new axles seals correctly. Just scribe a mark on the nut and the case housing as a locator, and count the number of turns you back the nut off when removing it.

Thanks!

Very possible, depending on what angle the motor is sitting at. A compression check NEEDS to be done. That is your next step. Dont bother doing ANYTHING until one is done.

Im out of town the next few weekends. Hit me up in a month or so to remind me (if you still need it fixed by then). I have a couple of rigs to pull into the shop for serious work, but I should be able to sneak yours in before then. The snow isnt flying just yet!!

I was thinking the same thing bonvo, that looks to be a GREAT little wagon! Have fun with it!

Regardless of equipment, welding sheetmetal body panels is NOT easy. That said, I have used OA on occasion, and will never use it for anything but heating/bending. In my opinion the only torch that should be near a car would be to braze. Not weld. A good wirefeed mig is a fantastic investment. I have thousands of hours on my little Lincoln 135+, and all I run is flux core. It has all of the hoses and regulator to run shielded gas, but Ive honestly never seen the need. Clean metal, good ground, and a properly dialed in machine = clean spatter free welds. As far as additional tools, for sheetmetal it really doesnt take much to get started. A small angle grinder with cutoff wheels makes for very quick work of large stuff. A good dremel does very clean work of sheetmetal. Without deforming it like many recip saws. I have way more than that in my shop, but these are the things that I started with, and Im amazed to think now how much I actually accomplished.

Do those CVs have enough slip to allow the knuckle to droop that far? It seems that having that much droop, regardless of how the CV angles are, will find the overall length limits of the axle. Generally a large travel setup's "at rest" results in the axles being nearly flat. The large travel coming from both compression and droop. Unless you are looking at some serious fender cutting, compression it pretty limited. That means the travel you are after needs to come from droop

We all hope so