Idasho

oh boy.... had you done a compression check since the motor build?

fun stuff. Keep it coming

I spent the afternoon in the scrap yard:banana: Wound up with 4 nearly new 14" 6-lug wagon wheels, and 2 13" wagon wheels with excellent tires for $80. The REAL silly part is that BOTH of the 13" wheels have tires that match both my summer and winter treads One of them has a Mastercraft summer tire (same tire im running right now. The other has a Hankook Zovac (same tire I have on my winter wheels). So now I have a full-size spare for both summer and winter!! here are a couple shots of the summer wheel I cleaned up and installed. It has roughly 40% tread. Perfect for a super cheap spare. Wheel flipped with a bit of hardware to allow room for the spare oil bag:)

I guess I should update this.... Here, is this better??

Why not just drill and tap a new fill hole, and "over-fill" the diff enough to submerge the pinion bearing?

I doubt the fuel re-fill has anything to do with it. I bet it is more related to engine temp than anything. Stopping for fuel allowed it to cool down. While it doesnt effect the A/F mix, it certainly effects the volume of A/F mix in the combustion chamber when it is allowing gas to enter the intake.

An alternative to the rag joint is to use stacked layers of radiator hose. Ive replaced more than a few rag joints in cars using this method. Including my lifted GL. It works great, and in my opinion is superior to the pre-fab rag joints. They seem to me less prone to cracking and failing.

I dont have problems with the huge images... But I also have a huge monitor Looks good man. If that CV joint isnt too torn up, that axle would be worth saving. Clean it up, re-boot, and keep it as a spare.

Yes, the dual range 5-speed is the one you want. Ive got one in my shop waiting for the 4-speed to die. I wouldnt worry TOO much about mileage. But I would pull the dip stick to see how nasty the fluid is. Clean and clear, go for it!

It sound like you are working it out, and know how everything should be connected. Sooner or later you will find the problem. Even so, I would STRONGLY suggest going back to the basics. Like checking grounds. The old dizzy you are putting back on, how many wires does it have for the module/points?

the 3rd gear pop is simply a 3rd gear and 3rd gear syncro issue. A complete tear down is required, IF parts are available. I might have missed it, but have you checked fluid level? I had a pretty bad rd gear problem when I picked up my GL, only to find that the fluid was low due to a leaky input shaft seal. Once the seal was replaced and fluid filled up to spec the 3rd gear problem went away 90+% It isnt completely gone, but it does shift without grinding, and it holds in gear. The sloppy shifter is a linkage issue. This is one of the methods to fix it... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86901

I had a new reman dizzy ignition module fail less than 100 miles out of the box. When i tore it down I found that they didnt use any heat sink paste for the module. The last junkyard trip netted me 4 of the little modules. I keep one in the glovebox now. Kostamojen, how are you determining that you do not have spark? Are you running a probe or test lamp when you crank it over?

Surging is most likely due to a lean condition. Id start first by checking for vac leaks. Cleaning the EGR and making sure it is 100% functional would be on my list of things to do as well.

normal, especially if you are turning at all.

awesome news Do you know if this Audi diff has aftermarket support?

Just a standard 6-bolt trailer wheel http://recstuff.com/15X6-6-5.5-White-Spoke-Trailer-Wheel-Heavy-Duty-2.aspx

Yes, this is def. one of those "preventative" measures. It isnt like I would stand a chance if I came across a moose in my lane at 60mph though.....

mmmm cancer.... Giant, Ive got a welder + other fun metal working tools. Ive even got a new plasma cutter on the way. Its in the mail, should be here in a week or so. That repair is going to take some extensive surgery. Let me know it you want to attempt it. Or I could send you in the right direction for repair. There are a couple of top-notch machine shops here in town that could fix you right up. The one on the south end of Moscow, Mundys is my machine shop of choice. great guys, quality work. I get all of my steel stock there, and toss a bit of work if it isnt something I can handle.

A big BRAVO to Mick!! My 4wd Tan shift boot arrived today, and it looks awesome! I have yet to install it, but will post pics when I do. Thanks Mick!

Copper. You need a copper 90 degree elbow. 1" with female ends should be 1.25 outside diameter. Like this: Any good plumbing shop should have them. Big box stores, maybe.

No gasket. Just Fuji Bond.

A few minutes, then a drive? Are you sure you didnt bump the sending unit wire during the service?

There is absolutely no way to WASTE fuel with any properly jetted carb. Airflow determines the fuel flow. Not you right foot. (with the only exception being the power valve) The primary players in determining airflow are displacement and volumetric efficiency. What you would be wasting with a carb that is designed for a much larger motor is the ability for the carb to produce more engine power. Used on a small motor the potential simply isnt there. Its like feeding a monkey an elephants dinner. The monkey simply cannot eat it all in one serving, so there will be much left on the plate. Unused.

Would you like me to fabricate you a MUCH better looking one? One that isnt made out of 4 pieces cobbled together with bird crap welds? Ship that ugly thing my way. Ill use it as a template to make a proper mount, then ship it back. Just pay shipping to me for the ugly one. Ill cover the rest. Id love to have contributed something to this sweet project. Even if it will be 100% hidden. Just an offer. Let me know if you are interested.

as much as id love to be 100% positive about this build, because it truly kicks rump roast.... That mount is absolutely ugly. You need a better neighbor. One that can actually weld