Idasho

Nothing special, 1/4" or 3/16" if I remember right. I had them on hand in my misc fastener stash. Only reason I used them is because I had a matched set.

On the backing plate and caliper brackets? Not caliper paint, it is an industrial alkyd enamel.

Is this on manual steering racks or something? Ive got power steering on my '84 and have never noticed a bend in the tie rod ends.... never really looked for it though!

Roads have just about dried out from the last storm, so I drove it into town for a bath. Always nice to get all that nasty road grime off again...

It shows. That is one heck of a paint job!

Im pretty sure Im running out of carb, but making that little ea81 rev much higher than 4k makes me cringe... The motor I can fix easy. Im worried about the body panels on this old car if the motor REALLY lets go! No matter really, this high compression ea81 has enough torque to keep you happy. It really is a pleasure to drive compared to the old motor. I can chug around town all day long in 3rd and 4th (5-speed) without a problem. Although, Im sure the 5-speed has a bit to do with it as well. Twitch, have fun with that motor build. Go slow, do it once, do it right.

Im running Empi axles on the front, they seem to be doing great. They are 100% brand new, not reman, and have very thick boots compared to other axles Ive seem and used over the years on multiple vehicles. My GL still has what looks to be factory installed rear axles and boots. Still intact, but sooner or later I need to get around to re-booting them.

Im running the CHEAP chinese sealed bearings + new seals on my GL. No signs of problems 5,000 miles later.... Though I dont really care. They cost me less than $5 each pic, prior to outer seals going on...

Yes. I went through this too. I believe the ignition module sends a signal to the coil when it senses engine rotation, telling the coil to fire. Generally they start to show failure randomly at operating temps, causing misfires or stalling. Eventually they fail all together. Though sometimes they just fail. The last one I had fail did just that, with no warning at all.

Bolting a plate to the underside is easy enough. Just have to remove the seats to do it right. I used a 2-piece driveshaft for my 5-speed swap, so I had to deal with the carrier bearing. These pics might help... Only other realistic option would be a 1-piece driveshaft swap.

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Not hard at all. Just takes patience It is worth the time. You will probably see better driveability, more power, and better fuel mileage. http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/carburetor_set_up_and_lean_best_.htm

Also, have you performed the proper weber lean-best tune?

10 miles it should def be up to temp. Are you letting it fast idle at startup? Are you running the heater the entire time? If you run the heater all the time, before it is up to temp, it will only take linger to get up to temp. A LOT longer.

My bet is on cold weather + short trips. Especially if you are running non synthetic oil and gear oil. Its pretty easy for me to see less than 16mpg in my GL if all Im doing is around town driving, which is 4-5 miles TOPS each trip. Open road even in the winter I normally see about 25. Summer it creeps right up to 30mpg.

Time to move to Idaho

Keep it clean, and allow it to dry 100% often. I drive my super clean '84 GL through north Idaho winters, but I also frequent the car wash every other week, and allow it to sleep in the garage.

With my dealer installed cruise control, I couldnt find ANY replacement cables for mine. So I fabricated my own out of motorcycle brake cables. Hardest part was sanding down the carb end of one of the cable nub to fit correctly. And the motorcycle sleeves are all nylon lined. Buttery smooth!

Oh I know. The sensor came with very short leads, so thats where it ended up. Im not overly concerned about it

Oops, almost forgot... The temp probe for the outside temp gauge was slipped through the floor boards just below the drivers door. It is tucked away right behind the unibody seam/crease I have found that it reads a bit high, especially when its sunny, and when driving slow. I think the probe is feeling the radiant heat from the blacktop. The primary reason for the gauge was for freeze "alert" And it works great for that. When its cold outside and roads covered with winter nastiness, it reads spot on.

Thank you for the kind words Coxy. I have the ability to do fine work, and this little car in the condition I found it seemed to demand as such. And so far, it has been well worth it. I have roughly 5,000 trouble free miles on it now. The center bearing has proven to work well. I havnt touched it since the first install and adjustment. No noticeable vibrations or noises to report. No reason to fix what isnt broken! But the car is doing great. A great example of how great was just last week when we got home from a 2-week holiday trip. The Subaru was parked in the garage for two weeks staying warm while we were away. I open the door to the garage, slip into the drivers seat, apply the throttle once to set the choke, and turn the key. Less than 2 revolutions of the motor and the car fires off, like it had never been parked. Most of this is most likely the weber, but it is shear joy to see such a silly old car spring back to life ready go. The car is still running on the lean side of things according to the wide band. especially in high RPMs. I attribute the high oil ( and water) temps to running lean. I have yet to have the chance to tear the carb apart and re-jet it. That will have to wait until summer. For now the car is my garage queen that I drive to work on occasion. The car seems to like parking in the garage! I have considered a EA82 header. Though I will hold off until I can get my hands on a stainless aftermarket one. Being carbed I prefer to keep it cat-less. And living in Idaho that is 100% okay to do. But so far I havnt seen anyone offering a custom header that would work, I would like a mandrel bent catless, stainless header. Please let me know if you know where to get one!

I believe the gear ration of 4th gear int he 4-speed is actually a touch taller than 5th gear int eh 5-speed. That means your RPMs should be slightly lower at speed with the 4-speed than the 5-speed.

As filthy said... Unbolt the driveshaft at the rear diff, then slide the driveshaft off the slip yoke. The seal is right there. Might want to grab a drip pan. You will probably loose a bit of fluid.

A gasket isnt even needed for the oil pump. Ive never used one. Toss it together with Permatex 51817 and call it a day. 51817 is an anaerobic gasket maker designed for machined surfaces. This stuff.... Goes on red, like this...

Much of your problem is that you are still running the OEM carb. Swapping to a weber with a good tune will provide you with loads more torque, down low int he RPMs, right where you need it. A dual range swap would be a good idea as well. 4 speed or 5 speed. The 4-speeds are not terrible, but they do have some issues. The biggest reason to go to a 5-speed is the deeper low range gearing. The difference is pretty big.