Idasho

Time for a quick update. Weber power is there. Weber wide open throttle noise is still there, though a good bit less noisy. And that lovely accelerator pump gargle at throttle tip in is gone, running the factory air cleaner. Im happy. I HATED that gargle. This evening I spent a few moments hooking up the PCV hoses. Now I just have the two large air injection ports to plug. Ill have to find some caps for those. The GL is almost due for a wash. I think this sunday Ill give it a good bath and vac, and Ill post some more pictures of the aircleaner retrofit.

thats a good question. And one I will answer later on. I have yet to even start the car after the swap. I had to remove the lower air filter gasket in in order to to the welding and complete the re-paint properly. And the sealant to hold the gasket is currently curing. I still need to sort out the PCV lines, as I had them routed for the weber. They will be going back to their stock connections. I also need to plug the two large ports that supplied filtered air to the air injection (exhaust) system. For now the ports are simply electrical taped closed. Ill have an update for you later this week.

Yabbbbazoww! Crappy cell phone pic. Better photos this weekend. I still have a couple of things to address.

45 miles from lewiston? Where is the car now?

Well I managed to sneak back into the shop today. Got another 20 minutes or so work done, right before the fire-work party. Things went pretty well. Im pleased so far. The adapter plate will be pretty low profile. Enough that even a trained eye familiar with Subarus wont see it at first or even second glance. Though once they realize that this carb is a weber, it will be obvious that something is different.. And until I prep the air cleaner and apply the first spot weld, I really have no idea how well this old steel will weld. I may just spot weld it together well, and seal the seams with epoxy. We will have to wait and see.

Yes, 'have welder- will weld" Plus, I do not want to have to rely on some sort of sealant or epoxy to seal the joint between the adapter and the air cleaner. I think I will keep it blue. Anybody know of an off the shelf blue that is close? Or am I going to have to have some color matched?

I think so! So to recap.... From this: to this: and eventually to this. And considering Ill have to weld to the air cleaner base, and paint will be ruined, Im considering color matching the air cleaner to the body color.

Here we go! I was able to get 20 minutes or so work done on this new adapter this morning. We have company coming over for the holiday weekend, so I doubt Ill get back to it for another week or so. But at least Ive got a start! Starting with some scrap flat steel I found in my steel pile, I layed it all out. The adapter will be a simple box, cut and trimmed to fit the profile of the bottom of the factory air cleaner. I used the redline kit filter base as a template. Also, it might be hard to see, but the opening to fit over the carb is rotated a bit within this new box that will be built. This will allow the air cleaner to sit straight in the engine bay. The sheet of steel was then taken to the drill press to fill it with holes. All of the concave cuts within the carb cutout were drilles, mounting bolt holes were drilled, and relief-cut holes were drilled to assist in bending the sides up when ready. One thing I dont have is a metal brake. So the relief holes are a must to keep things true when bending. After that, the plate was test fit to the carb. Thats as far as i got today. So far so good:eek:

With a good size lift like you have, you will probably have to have one fabricated. With my small lift (2-1/2") I was able to use the factory skid plate, as well as the factory splash guards. The skid plate was lengthened at the cross member side, and the passenger side splash guard required a good size hole to be cut to provide clearance for the power steering belt tensioner. Makes for super easy belt changes now I imagine even with a larger lift the factory skid plate can be used, just so long as you have the ability to lengthen it.

Youd better get that oil pan covered before you do any serious wheelin

Excellent! Thanks for the pics. I hadnt even thought of using the k&n filter base to make the modification.

Seen those. But they are no better than a K&N as far as filtration goes. They must be cleaned and re-oiled regularly. Id MUCH prefer a good old paper filter.

Fine, Ill fabricate an adapter to run the factory air cleaner. Ill even be nice and show you guys photos Brent, there is nothing wrong with my PCV setup. It is considered an "open PCV" setup, and people have been running it this way for more than 40 years with no problems. PCV draws crankcase fumes from the drivers side valve cover, and fresh filtered air is provided by the passenger side. Though when I fit a factory air cleaner onto this weber, that PCV setup will be going back to "stock".

After having zero luck finding a half-way decent alternative, this is exactly what I intend to do. A simple plate to bolt to the top of the carb with a stand-off box that will bolt to the factory air cleaner. This will also allow me to use the factory intake pre-heater as well. Looking at the setup right now I fear how bad it would perform come winter time.

Does the AWD gearbox have the same retarded input shaft seal as the old 4speed? You know....the one that requires a complete tear-down of the trans to get to it If so, dont forget to replace that seal:)

The fit is so bad that it deforms the filter before you even put the lid on. This is the tall style. In this shot you can barely see it.

My '84 GL is now sporting a new DGEV Weber. I purchased a Redline kit. Ive got it all dialed in, running fantastic. But I have come to the conclusion that the air cleaner/filter assembly that came with it is garbage. The air cleaner base is too small for the filter, so, the filter doesnt even sit properly in the air cleaner. Ive also never been fond of K&N style filters. I would much prefer a paper filter or a foam filter with a wrap/cover. Ive done a good deal of searching on the web for alternatives, but have come up short. Have you found a good alternative? It sucks to have such a nice carb, only to top it off with a shoddy filter.

?? The way I have it is a traditional "open PCV" routing. People have been doing this since PCV systems have been on cars. The PCV valve draws from the drivers side. Passenger side provides a filtered air source. Unless you have some undeniable proof that this will cause a problem, I will continue to run it this way.

Webbbbbberized Runs pretty good out of the box too! Not too much tuning needed.

Thanks dude. one step at a time to make this rig as dependable as possible. Ditching the Hitachi was a HUGE step in that direction. More pics to come. Weber is supposed to be here this afternoon.

I wasnt exactly thrilled about the quality of the kit I got. The welds were barely better than bird-************ welds. I had to reweld the strut blocks I purchased from him. Serious safety issue there. I wasnt going to say anything, but maybe a touch of negative feedback will wake him up a bit to fill his orders and bring the quality control up a bit.

If you are running dual fans i would keep one wired to the factory harness to kick on naturally. The other one you could put on a switch for keeping low speed off road temps down. Id put both on relays too, due to the amperage draw.

I just responded to your PM. Here is some more info on the fans. 10" Zirgo 1340 CFM reversible radiator cooling fan w/ curved blades. Dimensions: 11" wide x 11.5" tall x 2.75" deep. Amp draw 8-10. Part # ZF10S. You can find them on ebay quite often. I think thats where I got these. They are sweet fans. They were to be installed on my supercharged SHO Taurus, but the project got scrapped.

I hope you have a thick wallet. As GD said, those bearings are NOT cheap. When I did the input shaft seal on my 4 speed I considered replacing the front bearing. Until the dealer told me it was more than $300:eek:

At idle you should feel a bit of a pulse. At revs you should feel a bit of suction. If you are getting flow OUT of the filter connection, the PCV valve is probably bad.