Idasho

Finished up the lift kit for my GL. Including a simple modification to keep the AC. Only thing left is a bit of fab work to the steering linkage when I get there. The GL is getting lifted this week.

You have a hell of a trip ahead of you in a car with a lot of un-knowns. Good luck to you! By the way, Spokane is about the midpoint in your journey according to google maps. Lots of folks here in and around Spokane. Probably a great place to stop.

Clockwise = advance C-Clockwise = retard

Finished up the lift blocks for my GL. Primed, and curing. Finish coat of paint tomorrow. Install soon!

Eventually you will loose the ability to get into 3rd all together if you cannot clear the grinding up. The first thing I would do is check the fluid level. If it is low, TOP IT OFF! If it is topped off, Id drain it and give it a flush. Drain, refill, drive for a few hundred miles, then drain, refill again. See if that helps at all. If not, you will either have to learn how to avoid grinding when you shift into 3rd, or you need to source another transmission. Mine was grinding a bit in 3rd when I got it. A good flush combined with being a bit more patient when shifting (clutch in, wait.... then shift into 3rd) has cured the grinding all together.

Nice ride! Sounds like it is ready for a maxima Alternator swap:)

Pull the cap off, and remove the rotor. Then grab the distributor shaft, and see if it has any side to side play. Any play more than VERY slight should warrant a dizzy replacement.

Nothing now. Those photos are when I purchased the car last november. The set nut on the knob wasnt adjusted correctly, so the knob was crooked.

I got a bit of fabrication work done on the lift Im building for the GL. Would have been great if the 2" strut lift blocks I purchased were actually 2" tall. They measure 2-3/8 So, I had to take 2" square tubing, and stack a 3/8 plate on it. Anywho..... these are just about ready to cut to length. The 1-1/2 holes are to access the bolts/nuts.

No cracks in mine. Not only that, the digidash is still 100% functional

It is certainly an option. But I see it as just another failure point. Name of the game for off road rigs is off road ability, all while maintaining reliability when pushed. For most the easiest way to obtain this is to keep it simple. Adding another piece to the puzzle, especially one in the drive-line is quite the gamble. Also, as Qman stated, the stresses offroad are far greater than on road. This isnt just a simple matter of torque. Off road during nasty stuff the driveline gets shocked by on-off traction situations. This multiplies the applied torque, and is called a shock load. The benefit I see from a locker isnt related to rocks. A locked rear will aid in overcoming obstacles slower. More control and less breakage.

That looks like the solution Scott! A simple swing arm modification to accept a bolt-on hub/knuckle to make it work. You cannot please this crowd though. They want a drop in locking rear diff, but dont want to pay for it. And they dont want a welded diff with locking hubs, cause they think it is too much work, and dont want to pay for it. If I had a dedicated off-road Subaru I would go the welded rear diff + locking hubs in a heartbeat. Currently looking at possible candidates. Nothing worth looking at yet. And the daily driver GL I have is way to clean to subject to the rigors of off-road.

Sweet! Somebody HAS done it. Wait.... Why didnt anyone in this thread DO A SEARCH??? The horror!!

I tore all of the interior door panels off, blew out the dust from inside the doors, checked the door drains, and greased all of the electric window hardware. Then put it all back together. Boring, I know.

Now, how about you actually discuss the topic on hand? For example, instead of just jumping up and down yelling that it isnt a new idea, why dont you tell us why it didnt pan out in the first place? I bet your selectible hub using a locking collar had something to do with the bearing right? The rear wheel bearings pose a problem when you cannot use the axle to hold the bearings together. So, alternative #1 is pushing to bearing setup that allows the free movement of the axle shaft. You need a sealed/unit bearing. You could easily retrofit a unit bearing to the rear of a Subaru. And using a unit bearing + hub, depending upon which one you use, will also give you a great deal of option in the way of brakes and bolt patterns.

Wow you are funny. Again, more threats. All that hostility and anger. I guess Im glad I was able to interject some more energy into this thread. Maybe you should redirect that energy into actually helping the matter at hand, instead of shooting down ideas and tossing threats around.

agreed. Professional advise would have included a mailing address for a blank check to pay for his "services"

For obvious reasons, it is best to run the shortest coil wire you can get away with. Most plug wire sets do come with more than 1 coil to dizzy wire. use the shortest one if it will reach.

If you dont care if it ever happens, then why do you come back this thread, repeatedly? Seriously, if you dont care, just let it be. Notice how you knock an idea, all the while claiming that you are not knocking ideas?? Regardless if it has been thought of before. Doesnt matter, because if somebody had moved on such an idea, then there would be something to show for it. This thread is more about tossing ideas around to make something happen. Thats exactly what I have done. Knocking ideas in the form of "its been thought of, nobody ever did it, so it will never happen" simply isnt helpful. And it is funny how quickly the feeble minded ones jump to threats once challenged.

All these reasons why they dont exist. Yet this thread keeps on going....

thanks!

Thanks guys. Im lifting just 2 inches, and would like to avoid modifying the hard lines in any way. So if I disconnect the soft line from the strut I should have enough length?

So you know the limitations. Youve been around these cars for some time. Thats all great. But all I see you do on this forum is knock people for re-hashing old ideas. Maybe, just maybe one of these new guys with this "new" idea actually knows something you dont, or even has the money to do something about it. Still, you knock them for asking, simply because you have heard the same discussions before. Sounds to me like you are not doing any good for the situation. So why do you even post? You and I both know the solution for the locker. And judging by your posts you have already made up your mind that it will never happen due to the lack of funding (plus your other excuses) So it sounds to me like a person that has been into this for quite some time, and is dedicated to the off-road Subaru scene needs to quit making excuses and simply do it. Who will, I dont know. But I for one know you wont. Because you have already made up your mind it will never happen.

Gee, you sure are bitter! Sounds to me like you are making excuses, instead of producing results. I dont need nor do I want a locker. Thats my excuse

Sounds like you are pretty much in the same boat Im in. Love the car, hate the tire selection due to wheels. By far the cheapest and easiest route to fix it is to run 6-lug wheels with a couple of extra holes drilled in the wheels to bolt to the 4-lug hubs. The wheels are steel wheels, that fit 6 lug Toyotas and Chevys This gets you 15" wheels, the tire selection you want, and doesnt require you to modify the vehicle at all. A small lift is recommended though, and will free up even more of a tire selection. With all that said, right now there are still some sweet 15" 4-lug wheels in the classifieds on this forum for sale. The best of both worlds in my opinion, but you pay for it.