Idasho

Awesome.

It is an '84 GL, 4wd. non-CA, and no O2 that I can find. It does have EGR and and a charcoal canister though. The hose that is connected connects to a port on the top rear of the carb. The port it pointed straight to the drivers side fender, it is tucked up near the aircleaner. Here you go.... Thanks for any help!

No open ports, that I can find. But the previous owner did have the motor out for headgaskets. So things might have gotten mixed up a bit. As I said though, it runs great. I just got back from a trip to Seattle. Logged more than 700 miles, and got a bit better than 27mpg I just need to find a home for this hose!

I flipped the spare over, fabricated a new hold down for it, and squeezed in a small road tool box and shovel under the hood. At least there is something good to say about having such a tiny rump roast motor.

Simply badass. 2-stroke eh? Even better!!

I figured these might help. Im a guy that thrives on photos, I figure many of the members here might too. So I take LOTS of photos. A couple of photo guides.... Oil pan and pump reseal http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/pan.htm Distributor replacement http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/dizzy.htm These pages are linked to my GL's home page. here... http://www.bonnefinstudios.com/kwb/automotive/subaru.htm More to come as I go through this rig with a fine toothed comb.

Allen, Recently I found myself in the position that you are in. Hopefully my input will help you out.... I found a similar deal myself. A '84 GL Wagon, with 130k mile on it. VERY clean. Besides one tear in the drivers seat, the interior looks as it did as it rolled off the assembly line. Besides one crease in the drivers lower door, the exterior is as good as it gets for a 26 year old car. Rubber seals are 100%, glass is great, paint and clear-coat are in fabulous shape. Obvious that the car spent most of its time in a garage. Zero rust, and 100% stock. Even the digital dash works. I paid $2500. And I feel that both parties made out well. The gentleman I purchased it from had picked it up from a family friend, and (Im assuming) probably got it for free or next to nothing. He threw a bit of money at it, in the way of new head-gaskets and refreshed heads, as well as new belts, many new hoses, and a few ignition items. The car runs out 100% and looks great. Though in the past few weeks I have still found reason enough to replace/repair a few items. On the list so far... I started with a fresh set of winter tires and used steel wheels. Then... *OEM thermostat *New rear lift gate struts *Repaired a leaky fuel return line from the carb *Replaced the battery/starter leads *Just this evening I replaced the aging factory distributor, as the upper bushing was showing some play. *tomorrow I will be re-sealing the oil pan and oil pump. All in all this looks like the best $2500 Ive spent in a long time. I have a neat car that you dont see everyday in such condition, is is damn reliable, comfy enough for long trips, gets great fuel mileage, and being 4wd, it will go anywhere I damn well please in the winter months. Prior to finding this gem, I was looking at $20k+ used subarus. This one saved me a bundle. The Brat you have found might be something similar. But in my opinion, if it IS very stock, and has little to no rust, you would probably kick yourself for not buying it. In the grand scheme of things, $2500 is nothing. Even if you buy it and it turns out to be a pile (doubtful), you are not out very much $$.

Im thankful for whatever help you guys can offer me. This GL is clean enough that I intend to keep it as stock as possible. That said, swapping out the dash is a terrible option at this point. After reading many threads on the forum about electrical problems, and seeing how many are due to bad grounds, I added a ground this evening, in hopes of preventing any further damage. If the damage is related to the electrical system at all. Ive got a fresh ground from the alternator tensioner to a strut tower bolt now. Though, as clean and rust free this car is, I REALLY doubt the grounds are suspect. Further investigation into my trip computer, I have found that the BEEP I get is simply the BEEP the computer makes any time you select a mode. So at this point I am thinking it may simply be a faulty button, or a sticky one. I know that computers will do WEIRD things when you depress a button and hold it..... indefinitely.

I gave the GL an oil change today, and pulled the air cleaner to inspect the carb and such. Came across a mystery vac line, that is connected to nothing. For starters, what is this thing? What is it called? It is a plastic canister of some sort. It has two hose coming from it. One connects to the rear of the carb. The other.....??? When pulled away, I find this hose, that isnt connected to anything... The car seems to be running great..... But Id like to find this hose a home! Any help is greatly appreciated!

Any digidash experts on here? A search yielded very little. Ive got a problem with my digidash clock, that is built into the trip computer. Sometimes it is fine, will work for a few days without problems. Then the clock will beep, and then the HOURS on the clock will start changing..... 1, 2, 3, 4..... 12, then repeat Once it starts this, none of the buttons on the trip computer will respond. If I shut the car off, then turn it right back on it will start up the same craziness right away. The only way I have found to reset the clock and bring the trip computer back to life is by disconnecting a battery cable. According to the manual, the "digital clock" is on the same circuit as the horn and hazard lamps. Though if I pull the fuse, the clock is not effected. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have read many threads about digidash to analog swaps. Please hold those comments, as I am not interested in such a swap...... just yet.

Rock auto currently has the Sachs SG123001 listed for less than $15 each.

ah, good catch

Why all the fuss with impacts and jumping on bars?? Just slip a pipe over your breaker bar, place the socket on the nut, bar on the ground pointed towards the back of the car, then back the car up. It WILL come off.

Thanks dude.

Thanks for the responses guys. With the blocks though, do I still need to lift the rest of the front end even if the blocks are built with an offset? If the tops of the struts are dropped down, and pushed inboard, the camber should be fine, right? Or am I missing something stupid obvious? Also, when doing this, will I run into any clearance issues in the strut towers with the mounts and coils?

Heres another question for ya. Another one that isnt addressed in your offroad FAQ I have strut mounts like this..... just two bolts, instead of the three bolt mounts I see on the forum. Do the lifting methods change? Thanks for any help.

Thanks stephen115 for the link. That helps. Wow. Hows this for a response.... I have read the FAQ. And not ONE of my questions are answered in the FAQ. Mmmk? So how about you just pipe down, or answer some questions, if even just for the sake of conversation. Is this how you treat everyone with questions?? Why do you even bother responding?

Hey guys. Id like to lift the front of my '84 GL a bit, to increase the front approach angle, and level it out with the rear. Ive tried the adjustable struts it has, and currently have it at full height, but the camber is all wrong. So Im interested in a small lift to gain the height I want, without the camber issues. Questions though.... *Assuming Im looking at 1.5" to 2" worth of lift, will I be okay with the factory struts, or is there any reason to swap them out? *Ive heard about EA81 axle problems with lifts? Care to enlighten me on the problems? Id like to avoid ANY decrease in reliability of this rig. *With 2" or less strut lift blocks, do I need to lift anything else in the front? *with 2" blocks, what angle should the mounts be offset? I seem to remember a simple formula per inch of lift, but I now cannot find it.... *any other concerns/comments?? Thanks for any help

We made it up to McCroskey State Park and did the Skyline-drive run today. Not too much snow though. Supposed to get 8-10 inches sunday night though.... have to hit that trail again before winter REALLY sets in

Its not the glass thats the problem. Sounds to me like you either have a mold issue in your car, or the plastics/vinyl parts are off-gassing. Is the windshield any worse than the rest? If so, it is the plastics/vinyl. pretty common problem for vehicles in general that live outside in the sun. Plastics and such start to break down, and off gas. Easiest fix is to clean the hell out of the interior, give it a plastic treatment/regen, and consider a dash mat.

Moscow Idaho here!

I hear ya. As much as I enjoy this rig..... Id love to have an ugly one to build a trail rig out of!

Yep.... Tighten a fuel line, eliminate fuel leak CHECK! Adjust the throttle cable properly.... to allow wide-open-throttle CHECK! Yeah, this baby feels much better!

Cool project! Ive heard nothing but good things about treadwright, those tires should do you real well! And as aggressive as they are, I dont think you will even see a need for the LSD.

Nice! You should get some insulation in that place!