Idasho

Im running fastenal bearings too. Dirt cheap. And I have yet to have any problems with the factory installed grease. A touch more than 5k miles now. Though my GL doesnt see mud. But even if they fail, they are so darn cheap and easy to replace....

There is always going to be a small bit of noise from the FM station that will bleed through. It is very little though. Best you can do is minimize it. Thats as simple as lowering the volume on the headunit, increase the gain (volume) on the MP3 player, then adjust the volume from there using the headunit. But it sounds like you have other issues, if the levels on from your MP3 player are not coming through correctly.

Would it help if I bought TWO??

Im curious as well. Sounds like a choke issue to me though.

slap it back together without. If you have a vibration, easiest solution is to weld it in.

Well, Id like to stick to OEM if I can. So I ordered a couple, we shall see if my dealer can get their hands on some. In the mean time, I pulled the el-cheapo out due to insufficient flow when running hard. And I went to work on the old OEM unit. I decided to test the actual full-open temp. So it went into the toasted oven and got baked. I think the thing was just calibrated wrong. It opened fully, but not until about 300 degrees!! So I modified it. A combination of shimming the stainless rod and chopping off about 1.5 coils off of the spring, the t-stat starts to open at about 185 and is fully open at about 200. It still shuts all the way too. Worth a thousand more words...

For $150 you generally get ONE gauge, not two. Try to find another digital dual gauge for anywhere that cheap with sending units!

For those that asked about the gauge, it is a VEI Systems gauge. http://www.veisystems.com/home.html SUPER high quality, US made, and awesome support. Reasonably priced too. The gauge and both sensors ran about $150 shipped to my door. The gauge has adjustable high and low warnings for both oil psi and water temp, adjustable brightness for both key on and key on headlights on, and you can even switch the gauge readouts, top to bottom. All using the one button on the gauge! So far I really like it, and it seems to be spot on for readings.

Not one of those. Thanks for the link!

This one has potential!! http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3999991076.html

Installed some new gauges today... Digital oil pressure and water temp outside temp

Some new goodies installed today... I finally got around to installing my (hopefully) better digital gauge. This one has oil PSI and water temp. They do not come in green, the best second choice was orange. I think it works with the center console colors okay! And some are sure to like this one.... I installed a digital outside temp gauge. This will no doubt come in handy in the winter. It is always a good idea to know when the roads are near icing over. The gauge also functions as a voltage gauge and clock. So the small button panel was installed above it. yes, HOT here lately....

'Cause I have. Nearly cost me a motor. My fresh high compression EA81.... It seems as though I got a faulty one. This one has less than 4k miles on it. The car has always seemed to run on the warm side, but until today I have never been able to confirm it with an actual gauge. On the digidash temp gauge on the highway it was reading 6 bars. 8 bars is in the red. So it was not overheating, but it was running warm. According to my real gauge, it was running 225-230 on the flats. Some photos.... I pulled it for a boiling pot test. Peak temp was just about 205 degrees F (96 degrees C) Both T-stats are rated at 190 degrees F (88 degrees C) here is the el-cheapo STANT t-stat. It opened a full 3/8" Once removed from the pot it quickly started closing, but I was able to nab some decent pics as it was closing. And the low mileage OEM T-stat Opened BARELY enough to allow flow. Less than 1/16" of movement. By the time I got it set on the counter, it was already nearly closed back up... So Im running the el-cheapo $5 Stant for now. The car is running below the half way mark now, cruising at 205 degrees on the flats. MUCH better. This is even in 95 degree weather. But Im willing to bet the decreased flow with prove a problem on long uphill grades. I called my local dealer and he told me that there are only THREE OEM T-stats showing in their nation wide network??? Can this be true?? If so, has anyone found a decent alternative that is similar to OEM?

double offset joint

The plan right now is to use the existing temp sender port for the new sending unit and gauge, and to relocate the old sending unit to the upper radiator hose. Also, being lifted the upper hose is more than likely staying quite full all the time.

put a thread together to gauge interest in ea series headers... You might be surprised... I NEED ONE for my GL BAD !!

Actually, a temp sender located in the upper radiator hose would give you the highest temp readings. That is ideal. Ideal until the t-stat sticks shut anyways! But thats why I want to keep the factory gauge. I need to know just how accurate it is reading, as well as have the comfort of knowing JUST how warm the engine is. I hadnt considered the engine block plug port. Ill think about it. May even hit you up for it for a block heater! In the mean time, I jumped on one of these.... just to see if it is worth using. http://www.ebay.com/itm/350675974138

Hey guys, My '84 has a digidash, and I dont trust the temp gauge. SO Ive got a digital temp gauge to install, and need a spot to install the sender. I do not want to make the factory gauge in-op. Is there another easy spot to install this sender? How are you guys installing "real" gauges? BTW, the gauge is a new VEI dual gauge. Like this one, but with oil psi and water temp.

Ive got some pictures and info about it in this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/123124-any-interest-oem-ea-radio-ponderings/

Its no fun doing it, but once you've got the old ones out, they are much easier to service and replace if you ever have to again. The factory joints are "staked" in, the new rockford joints have inner clips.

No worries, reclocking the rear is easy. Way easier than keeping the front end aligned when you drop it.

it is a coil over strut. You can chop coils all day to lower it, but in order to keep the alignment in check you will need to relocate the strut tops outward.

For starters, VERY cool hatch! It looks like you snagged a good one! As far as lowering goes....how low? Short of something fairly custom, the options are pretty limited. The rear is easy, the fronts, not so much.

Giving the little Subaru some love... Cleaned up. Also got the "temporary" replacement gauge installed. And since installing the new motor, Ive had a bit of tuning issues, The thing runs out great, and most people Im sure would just run it, but creeping temps on the highway have lead me to believe the weber isnt quite jetted right for this high compression motor. I had installed a PLX / Bosch wideband O2 sensor on my previous "fun" rig, it was required for tuning purposes. Well, I sold the car, and nabbed the wide-band off of it before the sale. So Ive been meaning to build myself a "universal" wideband setup, that allows the unit to plug into a cigarette lighter for 12v, and clamp onto any exhaust for readings. it involved extending the harness, and fabricating the simple clamp/sample tube. With the one exception being the O2 sensor bung, all was done using scrap junk found int he garage. So far so good. I took it for a ride last night, and it seems I was right. As soon as you dip into the secondary on the highway, the motor leans out a good deal. So now I need to order larger jets.

Not slow for roughly 300 crank hp. The VDC isnt exactly light.... nearly 4k lbs 300hp is nothing these days, especially in a heavy car.