Idasho

Pretty obvious.... you need to find the source of the leak in order to fix it. I cannot crawl under the dash of your car from behind my computer

here is some more fun info. Actual ratings for said Chinese bearing as shown. The 6207 is on the bottom. This is taken directly from http://www.bearingslimited.com/ which is the supplier for these bearings at Fastenal. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=4126203 Take note of the max SPEED RATING and DYNAMIC LOAD rating. Your little Subaru on stock tires will never push the wheels/tires past 1,000 RPM. These bearings are rated for 9,800 RPM 90% difference. Your little subaru weighs about 3,000lbs. Evenly distributed thats 750lbs per wheel. Two bearings per wheel thats less than 400lbs per bearing. These bearings are rated at 5,800lbs EACH. 94% difference.

Your getting the wrong bearings, or damaging them upon installation. And who said anything about Chinese? It doesnt matter the application. Even the cheap chinese sealed bearings ratings far exceed the forces that a subaru can dish out. Though I would recommend finding non-chinese bearings. Still, For $5 per bearing, whats all the fuss about?? For the record, the bearings you want are 6207-2RS-C3

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=135324

Much like the industry being focused on horsepower (instead of torque), the industry is stuck on oil pressure (instead of flow) Oil pressure doesnt lube a motor. Oil flow does. Without oil flow, the oil would not be allowed to draw heat and particles away from bearing surfaces. All oil pressure is resistance to flow.

Any run of the mill temp guns will work. This isnt a turbo-diesel. And you are checking temp at idle, without a load on it.

It should be pretty obvious. Pre-cat will be considerable hotter. A properly functioning cat will produce the opposite.

Glad the thread can help

Did you just use "fastest" and "EA82" in the same sentence?? I jump back and forth from driving my GL to my SHO Taurus. Talk about a difference full throttle in my high-compression EA81 GL = less than 1/4 pedal in the SHO. Rainy day last week with the snow tires on the SHO. I was wearing my nearly worn out (no tread) boots. The clutch pedal has been missing the rubber cover for 5+ years now. My foot slipped off the clutch during a casual shift..... damn near burned the studs out of the front tires

I gave up on the MOOG "problem solver" line of parts a LONG time ago. Along with 90% of all "greaseable" joints. The boots are junk and do not fit properly. Only sealed joints for me. Ball joints, tie-rod ends, endlinks, ect.

Those prices are from rockauto. Though I can get OE part even cheaper from the dealer.

uh, no. More like $60 per side BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0513807 $52.79 bearing set BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522946 $0.75 rear inner BECK/ARNLEY Part # 0522425 $0.75 rear outer

As complicated as the new rigs are, a simple vac. gauge WILL go a LONG way in obtaining the best MPG you can get. New rigs use a pile of sensors and preset tables to determine how the engine runs and how hard it works, but the basics are still there, and when you break it down most of it comes down to one thing.... LOAD As it is a simple (yeah right) calculation for the computer to determine how much fuel and timing to feed the motor to match the load it is being subject to. And it uses all those funny sensors under the good to do it. mass air, throttle position, knock, absolute pressure, O2s, etc...

These motors are like diesels, having more torque than hp. USE IT. Reving them high really doesnt get you anywhere. The motor simply doesnt breath well enough at high revs, and the few additional HP are hardly noticeable. My fresh high-compression EA81 has a load of torque between 2200 and 3000rpm. Beyond 4k rpm there is a serious drop in power, so there really is no need to wind it beyond there, as shifting at 4k or slightly above drops the motor right into the fat part of the torque curve when upshifting to the next gear. My GL also has the digidash, so it gives me a RPM warning at 5k. It starts beeping at me ::EDIT:: OOPS, noticed this was EA82 Specific. My response is specific to a 5-speed EA81.

Best way is to keep it clean. But if it has never been cleaned, I do a heavy soak with purple power, then pressure wash. Beyond that you will have to add some elbow grease. Old tooth brushes do wonders. I even do this to customer cars before I do any engine work. I HATE a dirty engine. Impossible to keep things clean as they are pulled apart and reassembled if it is coated in dirt and grease.

The motors of an oil-less are no different in design than that of a similar oiled head unit. Only catch is that you must make certain you know what type of current the motor is designed for. AC or DC. Compressors old and new come in both flavors, regardless of oiled or not. And when you get big enough the motors will utilize a capacitor for starting and sometimes running. The DC motors are a fantastic find if you want to make a good generator. Ive had my eyes open for one for a while now.

Uh, no.

these days you can get by with a pretty small compressor. The latest generation of "portable" compressors really pack a punch. A few important things to look for... - Oiled Head * Avoid "oil-less" if you can. They are noisy, and do not last as long as a good oiled head. - CFM at PSI * Obviously the higher the better, to an extent. And the higher you go the smaller the tank you can get away with. - Duty cycle * How long a compressor can run without going nuclear. The good ones are 100%. Which means that they are rated to run constantly. With that said, I recently replaced my old and tired upright compressor with a SMALLER one, and am enjoying more air. I went with a Rol-Air FC2002 Oiled head, 4.1CFM @ 90PSI, and 100% duty cycle. I tied it to my old 60 gallon tank for a large capacity, but I can also use it as a portable if needed.

looks like somebody tried to make it a hatch back

Well, my tick went away. Seems it was a lazy lifter, or it simply had to work itself clean and free. The new motor has roughly 500 miles on it now. And feels REAL good. The high compression is really starting to impress me. The low end torque is fantastic, being able to pull hills in 5th at speed that before (with the 4-speed) I had to downshift into 3rd and pray it was enough. Yesterday we did a bit of light snow wheeling, to get us to a trailhead to do some hiking with the dog. The new low range is nice I also got the rear air foil painted satin black. It looks great. Ill get some new pictures up sooner or later. Having put 500 miles on it now trouble free, the car is being handed off to the wife for her winter rig. The snow is here! Also, Im in need of a new 4wd and low range switch. I managed to break the small switch that tells the cluster when the 4wd shifter is in 4wd and low range. It mounts inside the center console. Please let me know if you have a good used one, 'cause you have a buyer

so it doesnt shift even with the car not running? If that is the case, it is NOT clutch related. Id look to either shifter linkage problems, or trans problems. Checked the gear oil level recently?

Nice. Are those painted? Mine came raw, and I made the mistake of installing them without painting them. WAY easier to paint before them go on....

I wouldnt bother with new open wheel bearings. Get some sealed ones. They can be had for CHEAP

That bumper and hitch looks great! Any photos from below looking up at it?

So it WAS the choke